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Published: January 18th 2023
INTRODUCTION:
The last leg of my trip was traveling through the north of England making my way back to London. Northern England is cooler, wetter and considered an oceanic climate. English accents vary by the area. There have often been Old Norse & Celtic languages influences. The accent called "Geordie" is a dialect from Northern England that can be difficult to understand. The original Celtic tribe in this area were called "Brigantes" commonly thought to mean 'Highlanders'. The Brigantes allied early with the Roman invaders. After Rome came the Angles then the Vikings. Next were the Normans and the wars with the Scottish. The history of this area is extensive, too lengthy to write about in this introduction.
Friday, September 2 - Day 73 I reluctantly left Edinburgh to travel by train to Berwick-Upon-Tweed, Northumberland and pronounced 'bear-ick'. When I arrived I walked from the train station following my GPS. It led me to a street for Olivdan Cottage but the address wasn't correct. The GPS kept saying I arrived but since I had not I was thoroughly confused. I had my hand up ready to knock on a door when a voice behind me asked if I
needed help. I turned and told the man the address I was had. He explained it was on the next block opposite to where I was standing. After thanking him, I carried on. There was a row of cottages but not an additional street. They were behind the houses of the GPS location. The cottage I wanted was in the middle so I had to walk through the yard of the first to reach the middle. The occupants of the last cottage would have to walk through both yards to get to the street. This explained the confusion with the GPS. Anyway I had the 1-bed cottage to myself. The key was in a lock box on the porch and I had been emailed the code. Along with the kitchen, living room and bathroom there was a small washing machine. Once settled I did a small load with the provided detergent.
I found my way to the T.I. (Tourist Information) since I needed bus schedules regarding visits to Bamburgh and Landisfarne. There was one limited bus going to and from Bamburgh the following day. I had to leave at a specified time and come back at a specified time
Berwick-Upon-Tweed
Town hall and clock- no other choices. Quite upsetting was the information about Landisfarne. A bus would take me to the town but there wasn't anything coming back the same day. This was hugely disappointing since it was an important site that I looked forward to visiting. Landisfarne also called Holy Island is linked to the mainland by a causeway which is covered twice a day by the tide. It is considered the holiest site of the Anglo-Saxons. On the island is an ancient 7th century monastery. There is also a winery.
Berwick is England's northernmost city and divided by the River Tweed. It was the most fought-over settlement in European history changing hands between the Scots and the English 14 times over eight centuries. It has been English since the 15th century existing as something of a mix between both countries. A local dignitary wrote in 1633 that it was "neither one or the other however, the place was more inclined to English laws and to Scottish fashions and language".
I had difficulty finding a restaurant so ended up with something light. Returning to the cottage I could not get the wi-fi to work then discovered I had to reset
Path to Bamburgh Castle
the alternative to a busy road the router. There were also two tv remotes. I finally figured out how to get more than one channel. I had hung my laundry on a line outside. There has been a good breeze so they were almost dry when I brought them in for the night to hang up around the cottage. It seems a dryer is something of an anomaly in this country. I once overheard a couple of women discussing the purchase of a clothes dryer making it sound like a new marvel or perhaps an expensive endeavour.
Saturday, September 3 - Day 74 After a light breakfast, I caught a bus for the hour-long trip to the town of Bamburgh; pronounced bam-burrah. Getting off the bus, it was hard to miss the castle perched at the top of a hill. The castle looked huge and majestic. A couple of others got off the same bus. I did not want to walk up the busy road so chose a sandy path that was steep at times but pleasurable. My Historic Houses pass paid for the entrance fee. My first stop was to view a video presentation about the history of the castle, narrated by the
Bamburgh Castle
coastal fortress, location of tv series The Last Kingdom current self-proclaimed 'keeper'. It has been in the Armstrong family since 1894, not very long. The Armstrong before the current one, worked for Montgomery in the War Office during WWII. The woman he married was a petite Italian who worked for the Italian Resistance during the same war. After marrying, they adopted two children - a boy and a girl. The boy, now a man moved out of the castle when his mother died. He now works as a farmer living nearby. His sister has always had physical disabilities so has not been involved in the upkeep. People can rent one of two apartments in the castle. One is reportedly £1200 per month and the other £3000 monthly. The latter has 6 bedrooms. There are also a couple of vacation lets in the towers.
The castle was considered a coastal fortress for the Anglo-Saxon kings of Northumbria. Located on cliffs above the coastline upon 9 acres of a rocky plateau, it was built around an 11th century keep by Henry II. The castle played a key role in the border wars of the 13th & 14th centuries. In 1464 it was the first castle to fall during the Wars
Berwick Town Walls
a walk on a misty day of the Roses. It is the real "Bebbanburg" in The Last Kingdom series.
There are secret staircases and a secret tunnel leading into town. The current Armstrong said growing up there was great with all the space to run around. The Great Kitchen was damaged during the Wars of the Roses. It has 3 huge fireplaces used for royal banquets. The King's Hall was the main social reception and banqueting room. The Library once housed apartments for visiting kings and nobility however Lord Armstrong converted it to his library. The oldest surviving part of the castle is the Keep with massive walls up to 4 m thick. It contains the Armoury and the Court Room that has the Armstrong family gallery. From the walls there is a great view of the North Sea. Landisfarne can be seen in the distance; so close but yet so far!
Touring was a little rushed because I had no choice but to catch the 1:16 pm bus back to Berwick. I did not have an opportunity to look around the town. I read it was picturesque and quaint. With the number of tourists around, it would probably be difficult to wander around.
Bamburgh Castle
the home of the Armstrong family since 1894 It had started to lightly rain when I arrived at the castle stopping when I left the staterooms. While waiting for the bus there were a few drops now and then that disappeared in Berwick. Once back at the cottage I washed the last load of laundry and hung the clothes on the line. I then walked over to see the Grade 1 Berwick Bridge (Old Bridge) built in 1611-1624 then wandered around some looking at the buildings and scoping out meal opportunities.
Sunday, September 4 - Day 75 Sunday means difficulty finding an open food outlet. I ended up with some watery porridge. The day started cool & rainy but since it was Sunday, it seemed the best sightseeing would be on foot. I walked along the town walls. Supposedly Edward I is said to have shovelled a barrow of earth to the top of the bank himself. King Edward seized and fortified the town at the end of the 13th century.
There were quite a few people out walking although many had dogs. After lunch the sun was much warmer but it was windy. I walked down to the North Sea. Back at the cottage
I had pants to iron and clothing to pack. I went out for dinner and found the walk home lovely. The evening delivered a very comfortable temperature without any wind. About 22,000 steps!
Monday, September 5 - Day 76 After breakfast a bus took me to Alnwick, Northumberland; pronounced 'ah-nick'. I arrived at the Black Swan Inn about 12:30, too early to check-in so I stored my luggage. The Alnwick Castle was practically next door however, I first went to the T.I. to get a town map. I also found a bus schedule to go to Craster to visit a castle there only to discover that once again, the bus scheduling didn't work and a train was not available. Craster was only 6 miles away from Alnwick and the walk to the Dunstanburgh Castle was supposed to be exceedingly scenic. There was enough to see in Alnwick to make up for the disappointment.
The wheels on my overworked suitcase started to lose their leather covering, especially on the back wheels by the time I reached Fishguard, Wales. When I settled into my room here I had to cut the last of the remnants of the split leather
Alnwick Castle
served as Hogwarts in the first two Potter movies. Also used for Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves and others. so the wheels could turn properly. Hopefully I will still be able to roll the suitcase even though I am down to the plastic inner wheels.
I went to visit Alnwick Castle. My Historic Houses membership covered the entrance fees. The castle was Hogwarts in the first two Potter movies. Quite a few scenes were filmed here including Longbottom's uncontrolled Quidditch flight. It was also used for "Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves" and other movies. Some Downton Abbey 'festive' scenes were allowed to film inside the castle. This was the first time interior filming was allowed so the production made sure to use all the rooms used for public displays.
Since 1309 the castle has been the home of the Duke of Northumberland, the Percy family. It is the 2nd largest inhabited castle in the UK. It was first built following the Norman Conquest but was remodelled and renovated many times. It has been used as a military outpost and a college. The 4th Duke of Northumberland remodelled the staterooms in the 1850s. I found the staterooms to be opulent, immaculate and almost overwhelming. Interior photos were not allowed (the current Duke has just published a book including
the interiors). The library was phenomenal. It was huge but divided into 3 areas making it feel cosy. Not only were there thousands of books, the ceiling was carved wood representing science, travel and education. The fireplaces throughout were works of art.
I joined two free tours - one was about the history of the castle and the other about the castle as a film location. While touring the grounds we saw a number of people, primarily children posing with Quidditch brooms. Someone said something to the guide and he said when school was in session there were plenty of adults doing the same. There were a lot of swallows flying around during the history tour. The day had started cool & gloomy but became sunny & warm.
I went back to the Inn to check in. I had a lot of difficulty understanding the accent of one fellow working there. Luckily his female co-worker helped me out! Past experience with pubs led to low expectations but the room was a good size, the linens were crisp and soft. The bathtub was huge and it had a rainfall shower. The building was originally a coaching inn and a
government excise office for more than 600 years. Robbie Burns worked here as an excise officer.
Alnwick is the location of Barter Books, one of the largest second hand bookstores in Britain. I decided to walk to the store to discover just how big it was. Located in a former railway station it was as huge as advertised. I could have spent all day there looking through all the sections, sitting in the reading rooms and cafe. I found a book about Alnwick Castle that the Duke of Northumberland had previously published. It was much less expensive that the Duke's current book, it contained historical information as well as photos of the interiors so I purchased it. It was a good thing I didn't have extra room in my suitcase since I saw a number of potential purchases. Over 12,000 steps.
Tuesday, September 6 - Day 77 After breakfast I walked to the Castle Gardens. My membership card did not cover the entrance fee. First I visited the Poison Garden since a free tour was about to start. I knew some plants are very lethal however, it means more when actually looking at one. I discovered why
people always warn to watch out for nettles when walking in bushy areas. Irritants on the leaves cause red, swollen and itchy areas. After spending an hour on this tour I walked around the various areas of the grounds designed by Capability Brown the famous landscape architect. There were a lot of lovely flowers, trees and water features. It was likely even more spectacular a month ago. I stopped at the cafe for a snack and coffee. I got into a conversation with a woman probably in her late 40s who had just finished a hike. She took a taxi from Berwick to Landisfarne where she visited the site then hiked from along the cost to Alnwick, 21 miles in two days. She said she loved it and recommended it.
In the afternoon I stopped at the Bailiffgate Museum. It was not very busy and seemed overlooked by tourists. It did have interesting displays but not much in the way of artefacts. Across from my accommodations was a statue of "Harry Hotspur" and a sign about him. In this museum I discovered more about him. The name was a nickname for a Percy who was in his first battle
at the age of 12! He was very successful in battle, considered a kingmaker and an Alnwick hero.
It started to rain while I was in the museum. Since I was close to the Inn I retrieved my raincoat then went for a walk across the Lion Bridge and along the river. My only company was a herd of cows. I walked a long way beside the River Aln but couldn't see where it ended so turned around and had to climb up another wicked hill beside the castle. Just under 15,000 steps.
Wednesday, September 7 - Day 78 A bus took me to Alnmouth where I waited for about an hour for a train. I still arrived in Durham, County Durham around 12:30 pm. The Bridge Hotel where I am staying was at the bottom of the train station's steep hill. It turned out Durham was a city of steep hills in all directions. The fellow at reception was very eager to help out and provide information. He carried my suitcase up some narrow stairs to my room. I walked to the town centre and found Market Square where a T.I. cart was located and run
by volunteers. The fellow I spoke with was very friendly and I told him volunteer T.I. workers were very appreciated. Durham sits in a bend of the River Wear settled in 995 AD. The castle was a motte and bailey design. A church was built to house the body of St. Cuthbert. St Cuthbert is the patron saint of northern England and his tomb still resides in the Durham Cathedral. The cathedral and the castle are both UNESCO Heritage Sites.
After looking around I walked up a steep hill to the Durham Castle and the Cathedral. The castle is part of the university now and can only be seen by tour so I purchased a ticket for the following day then went to the cathedral to purchase a tour ticket also for the following day. From here I went down two steep hills to follow the riverside walk. I took a wrong turn cutting short the walk ending up by the castle and cathedral again. Just over 11,000 steps.
Thursday, September 8 - Day 79 The morning began with a visit to Durham Cathedral to join the booked tour. It came close to being cancelled due preparation
for an afternoon event. However the organizers did not inform the tour guide (Bob) who showed up to conduct the tour. There were only 3 people including me waiting with tickets. It seems they sold the tour to us then later turned away others. Since we were a small group and Bob was prepared to guide us, the church staff said we could go ahead with the tour but may run into interruptions. Bob was very well versed in the history of the cathedral making the tour enjoyable and informative. Construction of the cathedral began in 1093 and was largely completed within 40 years. Near the main door was the famous Sanctuary Knocker (a lion-faced door knocker) used by criminals seeking asylum. The current knocker is a replica of the original.
I was impressed with the history of St. Bede who was unknown to me. He was born in 673 AD and was placed in a monastery at the age of 7. It seems he was ahead his time. He wrote the earth was a ball and wrote of other concepts that no one else would consider or prove until years and years later.
A stained glass window
Durham Cathedral
called "Daily Bread" it pictures the last supper from above from the 1980s, called 'Daily Bread' shows the last supper from above and was one of the best modern windows I have seen. Another shows a British air force pilot being lifted to heaven but he is on a black eagle (a Nazi symbol) with his foot on its neck. In the Nave there is a line across the floor called 'The Women's Line'. Women were barred from crossing the line to go further into the Nave. It is said that St. Cuthbert did not like women and considered them a distraction to the monks (and probably to himself). The line applied to all women whether they were the lowliest serf or the highest queen. St Cuthbert was born in 634 AD and died when he was 53. His view of women was probably taught as part of the church doctrine that blamed women for all mens' sins (my opinion).
The Bishop's Throne is above the tomb of Bishop Hatfield. While alive, he asked some monks to go to the Vatican to measure the height of the Pope's throne. He then had his throne made one inch higher. It is still the highest in Christendom.
I wandered over
to the nearby castle for my tour there. As mentioned the castle is now part of the Durham University used as a residence and dining hall. The tour was very limited and interior photos were not allowed. The guide was called Chris, a history Phd student. He was quite funny. I cannot remember where he said he was from but he made fun of the light rain stating it couldn't really be called rain. We were able to see two chapels, an entry hall containing a magnificent 17th century staircase and the Great Hall used for dining. One of the chapels was built in 1080 AD.
It was softly raining all day but it wasn't cold so I took the opportunity to go along the riverside walk again this time going as far as possible. I enjoy these riverside walks with all the foliage along the way. I always find them peaceful & meditative, populated with friendly people. After my walk I stopped at the Market Hall. Vendors were heard discussing the Queen's health. Her family members were being called to Balmoral so locals felt this was not a good sign.
Back at the hotel/pub I ordered dinner
and wine. There were only about 1/2 dozen people around primarily standing by the bar. When the meal was over I happened to be facing a tv when the announcement of the Queen's death came up. I said loudly "the Queen has died". There was a loud collective gasp from the people in the room. Within 15 minutes all had left to go home except for one elderly gent sitting alone at a table.
Friday, September 9 - Day 80 I was worried trains would be cancelled due to the Queen's death. I also wanted to reach York, North Yorkshire in time for a walking tour that took place early in the afternoon. Before leaving the hotel I checked my train schedule to find it was indeed cancelled. Paying extra I booked another train that was to arrive before noon. To get to the train station I had to trudge up the very steep hill. About 1/3 of the way a woman dashed across the street to insist on helping. She took hold of my suitcase handle and began walking so quickly it surprised me. I almost had to run to keep up. Her legs were obviously conditioned
York - St Marys Tower
near my accommodations to scale the hills. At about the 2/3 mark I said I had to slow down. She looked confused, in a quandary; perhaps her own train was arriving soon. I thanked her for her help convincing her I would be good to carry on by myself. Reaching the train station out of breath I discovered my train was going to be over 20 minutes late prompting me to change trains again. It didn't help I still arrived 1/2 hour after the walking tour began.
I arrived at the Crescent Guest House a little after 1 pm to the sound of cannons firing a gun salute for the Queen. The owner was helpful with information but seemed puzzled that I had booked a double bed. I did not tell him it was booked with credit card travel miles. The bathroom was across the hall, near the breakfast room, private but not convenient during the night or in the morning however, a robe was provided to cover my skimpy pjs. The owner dashed my hopes of two day trips I had planned. He stated they were too far away to do well in a day even by car.
I was
York - Grimoire Bookshop
The name caught my attention. A grimoire is a book of magic spells and invocations hungry so first found lunch. While eating there were church bells ringing for at least 15 minutes. I ended up in a conversation with a couple from Kelowna. They were originally from York but had lived in Canada for about 50 years! At the nearby T.I., I found confirmation that trips to Skipton and Whitby were not going to be convenient. It would take 2 1/2 - 3 hours each way even though they are not a great distance. It was not worthwhile to spend 4-6 hours for a 1-2 hour visit. I have discovered that some of the routes all over England have not yet recovered from the Covid lockdown leaving them limited. I probably would have attempted both by car but otherwise they were too far for public transportation. I looked into a trip to visit Castle Howard in lieu of these day trips but the entrance fee was around $50.00 - too expensive when I know I am already over budget.
I made my way to York Minster only to have my hopes dashed. Tours were cancelled due to the Queen's death and there was to be 10 days of mourning. People were supposed to enter
York - St Mary's Abbey
on the grounds of the Yorkshire Museum only for prayer, meditation and to sign the condolence book. Understanding but greatly disappointed I walked through anyway careful not to take any photos. Upon leaving the cathedral I found it was raining off and on while I made my way to the Yorkshire Museum. Along the way I booked a free walking tour for Sunday morning with the 'Association of Voluntary Guides'. Located in large gardens, the museum is dedicated to the archaeology of York. There were many interesting displays and descriptions requiring a lot of enjoyable time going through the collections.
In the same gardens were the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. William the Conqueror began the Benedictine abbey in 1066. It was once renowned and wealthy until Henry VIII's break from Catholicism in the 1500s. The abbey was mentioned in one of the early ballads about Robin Hood.
Saturday, September 10 - Day 81 This morning started with a visit to Barley Hall, a restored medieval house. It took me a few minutes to find it; I had to walk down a snickelway or vennel (narrow lanes) ending in the courtyard. The house was built around 1360 for the Nostell Priory. In 1430 it
was rebuilt as the home of a goldsmith who became the Lord Mayor of York. In 1987 restoration took place again with high ceilings, exposed beams and a horn window that may be the only one in England. The furnishings are meant to replicate a household during the reign of Richard III. Many of the rooms contained costumes from Shakespeare plays. They were worn by Kate Winslet, Bryce Dallas Howard, Helena Bonham Carter, Julie Christie, Michael Fassbender & Al Pacino. Some of the women's costumes had very tiny waists; they must have worn corsets.
Popping into York Minster I discovered a service was taking place so I left to begin the 4.5 km walk of the city walls. York's city walls are the most complete in England. Most were built in the 13th century on top of older earth walls. The pamphlet said the walk was about 2 hours but it seemed to take longer although I didn't take note of the time. About halfway it was necessary to walk about 4 blocks in-between two sections that were not marked very well so I lost some time there. The walk was enjoyable with many good views, interesting gates along
the way and many people but not crowded. In York a 'gate' means street and a 'bar' means gate (blame the Vikings). There are 4 main bars along the way that are fortified gateways and two "lesser" bars. Also along the way are towers with arrow slits, musket loops, sculptures, views of Roman ruins and masons' marks. The "Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma Gate" is found at the shortest street in York. In 1505 it was known as Whitnourwhatnourgate meaning "what a street". I was almost back to where I started when an older couple stopped me. The man said something I didn't understand, said it again but still not understanding I started to laugh. He laughed too then I finally realized he was saying "you're back in the village". Meaning I was back to the area of the original village.
Feeling a little fatigued I returned to the Museum Gardens to sit on a bench but ended up viewing a falcon and a couple of owls from a visiting rescue and rehab centre. People were swarming the abbey ruins and the gardens. I realized it was Saturday and with kids heading back to school, it would be a last opportunity for families
to spend the weekend sightseeing. As well as children, there were lots of dogs of all kinds. In England and Scotland there were a lot of West Highland terriers; second were probably dachshunds. During the first part of my journey there were a lot of cockapoos then later whippets. I have seen a handful of greyhounds in this part of England. I am impressed by how well behaved they are lying under tables & benches in pubs and cafes, always walking beside their owners & not pulling on their leashes.
I was smiling about the crooked floors in some of these old houses and buildings. In my last accommodation I felt I was leaning to one side of the bed when lying down. In this hotel it seems my head is a litter lower. There is a basin in the room. Under the carpet in front of the basin the floorboard seems soft and about to give away.
Sunday, September 11 - Day 82 The free walking tour was booked for 10:30 am allowing me to take my time for breakfast and getting ready. A large group of people met in Exhibition Square outside of the York
York - King's Manor
at the bottom the initials 'JR' represent King James City Art Gallery. The group was divided in half, one going with a large Scotsman and one group with a small Englishman. I quickly scuttled over to the side of the Englishman thinking I would have fewer problems with his accent. He was called John and was well versed in York history and information. Near the Square was the King's Manor. It was built for the abbots of St. Mary's in the 15th century. After the dissolution of the monasteries it was expanded with stone from St Mary's Abbey and served as the headquarters for the Council of the North. It is now part of York University, the Archaeology department. The Manor has a carved Jacobean door outlined with stone carvings. On the bottom of the right side are the initials JR for King James.
Since I had been in York for a couple of days I found some of the tour covering places I had already visited such as the city walls, St. Mary's Abbey and the Museum Gardens. However, John provided information about these sites that I didn't know. York itself originated as a Roman fort in 71 AD operating as a provincial capital and the northernmost
city in Roman territory. Constantine was proclaimed emperor here in 306 AD. Later the city became an Anglo-Saxon kingdom called Eoforwic. From the 9th-11th centuries it was a Danish/Viking trading centre called Jorvik. Eventually it was conquered by the Normans who rebuilt the city with today's castle and walls. It was the home of the Yorks who became involved in the Wars of the Roses. It is known as Europe's most haunted city as well as the most visited city after London.
John pointed out various historical buildings including the 14th century Bedern Hall, the dining hall of the Vicars Choral of York Minster. In one area it is possible to see 4 levels of old walls. Over time the ground level was raised, walls started to become ruined so new walls were built on top of the old walls. Another set of ruins belonged to St Leonard's Hospital. It was founded shortly after the Norman Conquest becoming the largest medieval hospital in the north of England. The current ruins were built on a former hospital that was destroyed by fire in 1137. It operated until the Reformation when its religious features were damaged. After this St Leonards was
York - St Leonard's Hospital ruins
Multangular Tower - 12 sided, likely a catapult station slowly destroyed. The ruins do bring to mind an old church largely due to religious influences of the time. Nearby was a Multangular Tower; 12-sided, likely a Roman catapult station.
Since the majority of the group were interested in John's narration, we ended 1/2 hour past the normal 2-hour tour length. I had just enough time to stop for a coffee before going to the Jorvik Viking Centre with a booked ticket. I found myself taking part in a ride similar to Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean viewing moving characters in scenes of 10th century Viking life in York. Surprisingly enjoyable it ended in a museum where we disembarked to displays of artefacts. There were cases of magnificent silver jewellery known as the Silverdale Hoard from about 900 AD as well as many other Viking items. There were also a couple of ancient skeletons, a man & a woman discovered by archaeologists. It is definitely a touristy stop but the museum has legitimate and interesting galleries.
Next I walked through "The Shambles", a street originally filled with 26 butcher shops. Medieval buildings overhang the higgledy-piggledy street. Now it is filled with small shops, restaurants, cafes and such. I
York - Shambles store
many shops on The Shambles have become "Potter" related discovered many of the shops are currently Harry Potter oriented such as 'The Shop That Must Not Be Named'. Others do exist. The pie shop looked appetizing and smelled delicious. I popped into a card shop and bought a couple. Otherwise I wandered around looking into windows. Nearby streets had many different types of shops; one a gin shop. It seems a popular drink since I see gin shops in many towns and cities. Another shop was called 'The Imaginarium'. I loved the name so entered to discover many interesting objects that I could have added to my home decor. On the tour we had passed the Treasurer's Museum so I headed that way. Its association with the Minster meant it was closed due to the Queen's death. A woman monitoring the door & advising would-be customers of the closure said to check back to see if it re-opened. I stopped at the Minster to take photos of the exterior and the gargoyles.
Monday, September 12 - Day 83 I left early this morning with the intent of taking photos of The Shambles before throngs of people arrived. My plan didn't work! Every time I was on the
York - ghost scene
the purchase of two ghosts, handmade & limited availability street over the last few days there was always a formidable line of people waiting to get into a shop called the York Ghost Merchants. This morning there were already a handful of people waiting so I decided I would take advantage of the short line thinking it must be a good store to draw so many people day after day. I had a short conversation with two young men behind me who said they felt compelled to line up too. Shortly before opening a store employee came outside in a Victorian frock coat. He was making sure the people who were now lined up around the corner were not impeding access to other stores. I stopped him and asked why I was in the line. He explained that this was the only store selling the original, handmade, individual ghost figures. They sell very few on-line making them hard to get. I had thought perhaps I had become a sheep who decided to follow the herd but his explanation made me feel better. After a 45-minute wait, I was in! They were pricey but I purchased a couple anyway.
From the Shambles I walked over to the York Castle
York Castle Museum
Kirkgate: Victorian Street Museum. It turned out pursuing ghosts was a good thing because the museum didn't open until 11:00 am and it was now 10:55. The York Castle was a complex of buildings by the River Foss. William the Conqueror built the first motte & bailey castle in 1068 but it was destroyed the following year. The keep of the medieval castle was called Clifford's Tower. In 1190 in the tower, 150 local Jews were killed in a pogrom; most died by suicide rather than at the hands of the mob. In the 13th century Henry III rebuilt the castle in stone. By the 15th & 16th centuries it became a prison for local criminals and political prisoners. In 1684 an explosion destroyed the interior of Clifford's Tower. Once again, the castle became a prison in the 18th century as a debtor's prison then as a military prison until 1929. Today part of the buildings house the Castle Museum and some the Crown Court.
I thoroughly enjoyed the museum, especially the first half of the galleries. There were a number of period rooms highlighting 400 years of York's history with many artefacts. There were galleries of Edwardian and Victorian clothing, a
York - Clifford's Tower
named after the de Clifford family who were constables of the tower special interest of mine. On the lower level is 'Kirkgate'. This was a long Victorian street with different types of shops and services from that time period. In some of the shops were employees dressed in period costumes. I spent a good 15 minutes talking to a fellow behind the counter in the pharmacy.
Galleries of the history of WWI were interesting. Then there was the building for the prison. This was set up to represent the period when it was a debtors' prison, a woman's prison and a general prison. Dick Turpin, the highwayman was jailed and executed here. The last set of galleries was about the 1960s. This area did not hold a great deal of interest for me so I spent the least amount of time here. I would wholeheartedly recommend a visit.
Upon leaving the museum I walked across the street to Clifford's Tower. My Cadw membership covered the entrance fee. At the bottom of the steep hill an employee not only guessed my accent as Canadian, he knew I was from western Canada. It seems he lived in southern Alberta for some time so was familiar with the speech patterns. After my conversation
York Minster
interior photos not allowed during 10 days of mourning with him I had many, many steps (55) to climb up to the entrance of the Tower. It was named after the de Clifford family who were constables of the tower. The interior was recently reconstructed and renovated. In different alcoves I sat and listened to recordings of the history of people who may have worked in the tower. A new roof deck provided great views over the city.
Tuesday, September 13 - Day 84 This was really an extra day in York since I couldn't complete the day trips or tour the Minster. In the morning I repacked & reorganized my suitcase then walked to York Minster. Although I still couldn't tour I was able to walk around looking at the interior. I did not feel comfortable taking any photos plus employees were discouraging this. Afterward I simply wandered around the town centre trying to see areas I had not previously visited. I had a 1:00 pm ticket for the 'York Story of Chocolate'. A little early I sat in the square near the museum and got into a conversation with an elderly man who was waiting for his wife. They had lived in York for many
years but now lived in a town not too far away.
In the chocolate museum I discovered Henry Rowntree started chocolate making in the city of York around 1862. They originated KitKat, Aero, Black Magic, Quality Street, Terry's Orange and others. They were Quakers so provided all kinds of benefits for their employees that were not found anywhere else. The character of Willy Wonka was based on one of the CEOs who wore a big hat and long black coat. He believed in finding good in people. The company was sold by the Rowntree family and is now based on the outskirts of York. My group was small so we ended up getting far too much free chocolate.
Passing through the Shambles area I stopped at an art store on Goodramgate. The fellow inside pointed to a small lane across the street and asked if I had visited Holy Trinity Church. Upon his recommendation I followed Hornpot Lane and came upon a small quiet churchyard and the 15th century church. It was hard to believe that the busy street was not far away. The floors of the church were uneven under boxed pews. I had not seen these
before. The church officers I spoke with said these were unique in York, used by the various families that attended services. The high sides gave the people some privacy along with protection from drafts on cool days. HBO's series 'Gentleman Jack' was about Ann Lister. HBO filmed her marriage scene here since this was the actual location of the event. (I did not see the series.)
I walked back to the Treasurer's House to see if they re-opened for tours. I was luck with my timing since it occurred they were looking for 1 more to make up the next tour. It was a manor house that operated as the cathedral's treasurer's house until Henry VIII's dissolution. Then it went through a number of owners and a number of changes. In 1897 a wealthy businessman purchased the townhouse decorating the interior as seen today. We toured through various rooms with interesting collections and furnishings.
I was feeling sad to leave York. I enjoyed the sights, the expensive food and the people.
Wednesday, September 14 - Day 85 Checkout time was 10 am but the train was scheduled for noon. This gave me plenty of time to
York train station bench
Robert "Mouseman" Thompson featured a carved mouse on almost every piece of furniture he made. This is the only one in a railway station. walk to the train station then sit and people watch. While I was sitting a woman came up and said she wanted to take a photo of the bench I was on. There was a furniture maker by the name of Robert 'Mouseman' Thompson (1876-1955) who always featured a carved mouse on his pieces. The bench in the York train station was one of his pieces so she wanted a photo of the mouse. I then ended up in a conversation with a Canadian woman whose husband was wandering around. They not only lived in Edmonton they lived not too far away from my home. Finally it was time for the train to take me to Lincoln, Lincolnshire.
When I arrived I asked a taxi driver if I could walk to the White Hart Hotel. He stated I could but it sat near the top of a very steep hill. I chose to take the taxi using a longer route. The hotel was originally a 14th century coaching inn supposedly haunted. The nearby Lincoln Cathedral stood in for Westminster Abbey in the movie 'Da Vinci Code'. Most of the movie's cast stayed in this hotel because of its proximity
Lincoln - Steep Hill
a gradient of 8 degrees to the cathedral.
After settling into my room I took a short walk to the T.I. housed in a 16
th century building. I discovered the Bishop’s Palace was still closed for restoration and the cathedral tours were cancelled for the period of mourning. I was able to learn about a Lincoln walking tour taking place the following morning. The steep hill the taxi driver referred to is called 'Steep Hill'! It has a gradient of about 8
o and has a handrail to assist people climbing up and down. Luckily there is also an occasional shuttle bus for those who need it. There used to be a large community of Jews before they were expelled from England in 1290. The building of the 'Jews House Restaurant' is one of the oldest continuously occupied dwellings in England.
The initial gloomy weather became sunny brightening the afternoon. I wandered around for a while getting my bearings, locating sights and looking for suitable eating establishments.
Thursday, September 15 - Day 86 This morning I spent some time exploring the interior of the cathedral. At 11:00 am I joined the walking tour I booked at the T.I. There were 5 people
including me. Our guide was called Brian Taylor who used to be a detective, now involved in different areas of guiding. He took us around to see various medieval buildings including the Jew's House, a Norman house and the 'bendy' house or 'crooked' house dating back to the 15th century. The crooked house is one of the most photographed buildings in Lincoln. It was going to be demolished in 1933 but when the brick facade was torn down, the half-timbered building was revealed and subsequently saved. We also saw an ancient archway and the 3rd century Newport Arch. We walked around the outside of the cathedral discussing friezes and statues. As mentioned the cathedral subbed for Westminster but recently it subbed for Notre Dame for the upcoming Apple TV movie "Napoleon". The guide said it was unfortunate that this was unknown to the general public since it would create more tourists and more money for the city. This made me think of the Potter movies and the Da Vinci Code movie causing an influx of visitors at various sights.
If facing the cathedral the tower on the right has a lean however it has been shored up so it
Lincoln Cathedral
The Gallery of Kings - 11 male seated figures, 14th century will not move further. The cathedral was begun in 1088 from local stone. Construction continued through the medieval years. There was a central tower that supposedly was the tallest spire in the world from 1311-1549. Unfortunately it collapsed and was not rebuilt. There is a sundial on one corner then around that same corner is a mass dial that would tell the illiterate townspeople when services were being held. One horizontal carved frieze shows the 'torments of hell'. It shows lust, sodomy, miserly and avarice. It ends with Christ standing on the devil saving souls. Above the main door is the 'Gallery of Kings', 11 male seated-figures sculpted in the 14th century. There are many other sculptures, including Biblical scenes. We ended at the 14th century Exchequer Gate Arch. Located near the cathedral at the end of Castle Hill, this was where tenants who rented church property came to pay. A chequered black & white cloth was used to aid the counting of the money. The main passage has smaller gates on either side. It was also used for access to the Cathedral Close. The 1 1/2 hour tour was great - the guide was interesting and knowledgeable.
In
Lincoln - Stonebow Gate & Guildhall
15th century gate; the Guildhall was finished in 1520, the official home of the Mayor the afternoon I walked down Steep Hill and wandered around. At the bottom of the hill was the 15th century Stonebow Gate and Guildhall. The Guildhall was finished in 1520 and is the official home of the Mayor. The Mayor was standing by the gate encouraging people to sign a condolence book for the Queen. Stonebow Gate was the gate to the old Roman city. The name Stonebow comes from a Norse name meaning stone arch. Below this there are a number of shops and eating establishments. Food choices have not improved from the usual pasta, pizza and burgers. The lack of choice led to a cardboard GF pizza. Perhaps going further afield (away from the old town) would have improved the choices. Admittedly I did not research any choices, as was my usual habit. I took the bus back up Steep Hill not inclined (haha) to attempt the climb.
Friday, September 16 - Day 87 The morning included a walk over to the Museum of Lincolnshire Life. The exhibits were primarily about Lincoln's social history during the Edwardian and Victorian periods. There were also exhibits about the Royal Lincolnshire Regiment and their involvement in war. The collection
Lincoln Castle
one of my favourite photos; castle wall with cathedral in background was extensive and took some time to view. There were not too many people there. Afterward I walked back toward the castle stopping along the way for tea. Earlier I had booked a 1:00 pm ticket for the castle. I was early so first stopped to see their copy of the 1215 Magna Carta & the 1217 Charter of the Forest in a low light secure building. There are only 4 copies of the Magna Carta in the world, one of which was at Salisbury Cathedral. I didn't stop there because of the long line-up. Here, there were only a handful of others around. The Lincoln copy was loaned to the New York World's Fair in 1939. When WWII started it was kept safe at Fort Knox until it was returned in 1946. It resides under special lighting, resting upon a special background. For 3 months of the year it is kept in complete blackness 'to rest'. The writing was very tiny and not readily readable.
At the appropriate time I joined a group for the tour. The guide asked us about our visit to Lincoln then where we were from and said to me, "I guess your accent
isn't local". The tour was of the castle bailey. This was one of the first castles built by William the Conqueror during the late 11th century on the site of an old Roman fortress. It is described as a place where both kings and convicts have walked.
In one area was a wonderful dragon moving in and out of the walls. During the tour the gloomy clouds disappeared leaving a blue sky with fluffy white clouds. Also on the grounds are the law courts in a great looking building not open to the general public. Another building was used as a debtors and criminal prison. One of the governors, John Merryweather (early 19th century), used prison money to build an observatory tower ostensibly to pursue his interest in astronomy but rumoured to use it as a means of spying on the female prisoners while they exercised in the yard. Rumours include speculation that he fathered at least two children with incarcerated women. There were two powerful women associated with the castle. On the castle motte stands the Lucy Tower (1136) named after Lucy de Taillebois, Sheriff. Under the leadership of Lady Nicola de la Haye the castle held out
Lincoln Castle Prison
chapel; separation to prevent prisoners influencing each other against a 40-day siege in the late 12th century. As constable she defended the castle again in 1217.
After the tour I obtained an audio guide and walked along the castle walls. Up higher the wind was cold but the audio guide and views from the walk were worth grappling with a blustery wind. From one section of the walls I could see lots of nuclear cooling towers in the distance. After the wall walk I made my way through the prison building. It was built in 1788 and used as a prison until 1878. Prison population included men, women and children as young as 8 years old. Initially it was designed to keep prisoners apart so the chapel, for example had high dividers between the seats. (The photo shows mannequins have been placed in a few seats. When I walked around the room these startled me for a second or two thinking they were real!) The idea was to stop prisoners from influencing each other and to encourage reflection and reform. Several murderers were hanged at the castle & buried in Lucy Tower. Today people can see the gravestones when on the wall walk. Overcrowding led to placing
more prisoners in each cell. The walls of the prison cells contain lots of graffiti. I enjoyed all parts of the visit spending over 3 hours in total.
Saturday, September 17 - Day 88 Walking to the train station was a bit of an adventure. I went down Steep Hill with a suitcase that kept threatening to run over me! At least the damaged wheels were working. The trains to Norwich, Norfolk were supposed to take a little over 3 hours however the 2nd one was about 20 minutes late. This worked to my advantage since I was able to check into the Wellington Apartments upon arrival. It was a studio apartment with a double bed, a small kitchen and good-sized bathroom. The city is pronounced Norr-ich. It is said to be one of the best-preserved medieval cities in England. Saxons first fortified the area in the 9th century. Flemish settlers arrived in the 12th century establishing a textile industry that allowed the town to prosper.
Once I deposited my suitcase I asked the fellow at reception the best way to get to the city centre. He gave me a map and told me to follow a
path that took me to the cathedral and the centre. The 'path' was what I considered a couple of alleys. I wasn't sure I was going the right way but a man walking in the same area confirmed I was. I came off of the path to find a gate to the cathedral but carried on to find the castle. I found the map difficult to follow. The streets were not laid out in a formal manner, the Saxon streets turned out to be irregular and hard to follow. I had walked some distance then unsure of the route asked a man if I was going the correct way. He kindly escorted me to the entrance. He was a helpful musician. It turned out I was very close. I discovered the castle was closed for renovations so a ticket was not available. The museum next door was open so I spoke to the fellow at the door who explained the renovations would be on-going for at least a year. He did recommend the museum so I said I would return the next day. I found my way back to the Norwich Cathedral. The cathedral was started in the late 11th
Norwich, Norfolk
Pull's Ferry - a medieval watergate century and was completed in 1145 AD. The cloister is large and sweeping. There are 1106 carved medieval bosses and carved stonework found in the cloisters. After time spent in the cathedral I walked back to the town centre searching for food - pasta again! Research was required for further meals.
Sunday, September 18 - Day 89 Sundays were not always a traveler's friend in this country. However I did not have a problem this morning. I made my way to the River Westum to begin a riverside walk. These peaceful walks were a friend in this country. Following a guide brought with me I followed the concrete path first coming to Pull's Ferry, a medieval water gate and named after a ferryman. The ferry operated on the river until the 1930s. A house was added in the 17th century and is now a private home. It is one of the most photographed buildings in the city so it likely doesn't have much privacy. Next was the Cow Tower, one of the earliest purpose-built artillery blockhouses in England (14th century). Its name comes from the meadow that surrounds it called Cowholme. The interior is now hollow so access
Norwich Castle
closed for renovations, next door to museum was not allowed however there was an opening that favoured a photo. There were other people walking along the route. One couple had a large black lab that kept jumping into the water. On the other side of the river were some old city walls. A photo was difficult since a large billboard and nearby scaffolding ruined the view. Along the quayside there were many colourful houses and an art installation of crates with names of people who were important in the city's past. The Frye Street Bridge was very pretty. The walk ended at the Norwich University for the Arts. In front of the building were unidentified ruins.
On the way back to the city centre I stopped at a building called 'The Halls', a re-purposed church. Inside was a large craft sale but I refrained from any purchases. After stopping for tea I went to the Castle Museum that was a pleasant surprise in many ways. There was a large natural history area with many, many stuffed birds, fish and animals. The section I was interested in, about the Iceni Tribe was actually small and a little disappointing. This was the tribe of Boudica. There were a
number of other permanent exhibits and temporary exhibits all of which required definite viewing time. When I was leaving the museum I had a brief conversation with a girl who told me it was her 13th birthday. She said my accent didn't sound local. When I said I was Canadian she responded saying her father was also Canadian. On my way back to my accommodations there was a man, late 30s?, wearing a Spiderman costume. He didn't have his head covered, had a big belly and should have been wearing a cup! A young guy at an outdoor coffee house took a photo but I could not do so discreetly so didn't try.
Monday, September 19 - Day 90 Today was a bank holiday due to the Queen's death. This meant all the eating places were closed and I needed breakfast. I knew Costa Coffee or Nero Coffee had to be open; they are always open. I eventually found a Nero Coffee. After purchasing some takeout I returned to my room to watch the funeral. I was able to watch about an hour, the Royal family were into about 10 minutes of their walk behind the coffin. It
Ely, Cambridgeshire
pronounced ee-lee; a steep street between the train station and my hotel was time to check out, walk to the station and catch my train to Ely, Cambridgeshire (pronounced ee-lee). When I left the people in reception were sitting on a couch watching the funeral. Ely was once called 'Eilig', an Anglo-Saxon word for 'Island of Eels' because it was surrounded by water filled with an abundance of eels.
Outside of the Ely station a taxi driver told me charges were higher on a bank holiday. Instead of starting at £4 the fee would start at £7, a big difference. He pointed me in the correct direction after apologizing. I responded that an apology wasn't necessary especially since I was over budget anyway. So I set out walking the 1.1 km primarily up a long hill arriving at Lamb Hotel about 1:15 pm. This was about 45 minutes before I could check into the pub/hotel so I sat & had a drink. The room was a good size with a normal sized single. Some of the singles I have had were narrow causing me to almost fall out a few times.
Almost immediately I set off to explore, walking around until 4 pm when I returned to my room to
Ely Cathedral
first a nunnery then a monastery then a church; in 1109 it became a cathedral watch the end of the funeral - the coffin was being moved to Windsor. The Royal family was following the coffin once again for a short walk. At the end of the service the coffin was lowered into the vault and the crowd sang "God Save the King". I thought Charles looked tired while Princess Anne's face was filled with grief.
Tuesday, September 20 - Day 91 Breakfast was included, a nice change from searching for food. I left for the Ely Cathedral and bought a ticket for the ground floor tour. A couple of other tours were available but this one seemed the most suitable for me. A woman called Sally was the guide and very good. Back in 673 AD a Saxon Queen called Etheldreda founded a monastery on the site. It became a prominent Benedictine Monastery, the 2nd wealthiest in the country until closed by Henry VIII in 1540. The Octagon Tower (1342) is called one the wonders of the medieval world. The 14th century Lady Chapel is one of the largest in any UK cathedral. The cathedral has been used as a location for movies and tv including Elizabeth: The Golden Age, Macbeth, The
Ely Cathedral
'Way of Life' sculpture - its path is irregular and unpredicatable King's Speech and The Crown (Elizabeth & Phillip's wedding).
The "Way of Life" Sculpture is very compelling and different from the norm. A stained glass window features the story of Noah's Ark. Some of the side-by-side animals look like one animal with multiple legs. At one time the interior of the cathedral was brightly painted. Some colour can still be seen in spots. The Prior's Door and the Lady Chapel have a lot of sculpture, some telling stories, some hiding funny faces. Visitors could spend hours looking at the carvings. Throughout there were paintings, carvings and colourful ceiling bosses. (See all the photos.)
My next visit was to Oliver Cromwell's House. It is the only house still standing in which he spent a few years. He and his family moved into the house in 1636 and remained there for just over 10 years. Although I probably would have chosen the Parliamentarian side in the war, he was too cruel. Since his occupancy the house has been used for other functions. It was the vicarage of St Mary's Church until 1986.
After tea I walked to the Museum of Ely. It had some interesting exhibits of the history
Ely - Oliver Cromwell house
Cromwell was a strict Protestant and Parliamentarian. He lived here from 1636-1647 when he was the local tithe collector of the city from prehistoric times to the present. These include Roman displays, fossils and eel catching. In the 13th century the building (the old Bishop's Gaol) was used as a prison. There are some cells restored and prisoner graffiti can be seen.
The day had started cool but turned beautiful without any wind and t-shirt temperatures. This influenced my decision to complete some of the 'Eel Trail', a walk around the city using a brochure I picked up. Included was a walk along the Great River Ouse, through the Jubilee Gardens then through Ely Park where the castle mound is found. The castle does not exist any longer and the mound is barely distinguishable. From there to the Meadow where a herd of cows were grazing with the cathedral in the background. By the meadow was a tree so huge, its branches trailed upon the ground. Along the way was Powder's Hall, once a bloodletting infirmary of the monastery as well as the Bishop's Palace, now a school. People were leaving flowers in the Queen's memory by the cathedral. In the late afternoon a church officer would move them to the Cathedral Green next to a captured Russian
cannon.
Tomorrow I leave for London for the last few days of my trip. I feel somewhat heartbroken that the trip is to end. I have thoroughly enjoyed traveling from place to place, each morning stepping onto cobblestones, visiting ancient buildings and having small adventures.
Wednesday, September 21 - Day 92 My suitcase was reluctant to wheel beside me so it was bullied and dragged to the train station. There was a steep ramp up to the train platform causing me to stop 2 or 3 times to rest. A station employee came up and said she would take it from there. She said I could always ask an employee for assistance (I have done in the past). I said I was too stubborn. The trip was about 1 hour and took me to King's Crossing where I was to catch the Victoria line on the Underground. To get to the correct line required 3 separate lifts going down then a trek along a long, hot tunnel. This was likely a longer walk than the 4 stops to Victoria Station. I couldn't find the lift I wanted so once again, I exited Victoria Station on the wrong
Ely - Powchers Hall
once the blood-letting infirmary of the monastery side (I did the same when I first arrived in June)! Finally finding a street I recognized, I arrived at Cherry Court Hotel rather damp in the warm weather. I had forgotten what a small room it was with a double bed and barely enough room for my suitcase. However, the hotel made up for it with friendly owners, a good price and a good location. I went for a long walk just wandering around then finding a meal. On the way home I stopped at St George's Tavern for a glass of wine before going back to my room.
Thursday, September 22 - Day 93 With the crowds in London still extreme I caught an early train to Tower Hill for the short walk to the Tower of London. When I entered I discovered the yeoman (Beefeater) tours were cancelled for the 10 days of mourning so I obtained an audio guide and started my own tour passing Traitor's Gate. The Gate was where prisoners were delivered to the grounds via boats on the Thames.
I came out of a tower to discover a yeoman leading a gathering of people. Curious, I quickly joined the group.
Tower of London - Traitors Gate
the water entrance used for many prisoners of the Tudors We were herded into the Chapel Royal of St. Peter ad Vincula. Here he said he was giving a short introductory lecture, primarily about the chapel. This chapel contains the remains of royals and aristocrats who were executed on the green out front. These included Sir Thomas More and 3 queens: Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Jane Grey.
Soon after William the Conqueror became King in 1066 he built a fortress to guard the entrance to London from the Thames. The White Tower was completed in 1097 then other buildings added over centuries. When it was completed it was the tallest building in London at 90 ft. The Tower has been a royal residence, an armoury, a treasury and, of course, a prison. Prisoners were tortured here, kept for long periods of time some leaving only for their execution. Long time residents have been the ravens. It is said if they desert the tower, the kingdom will fall. The 'Tower of London' is actually a complex of a castle, 22 towers with multiple buildings and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Outside of the St Peter ad Vincula chapel is the Execution Site Memorial. This is where the above-mentioned
people and others were executed in relative privacy rather than a public death on Tower Hill. The inscription reads, "Gentle visitor pause awhile ♦ where you stand death cut away the light of many days ♦ here jewelled names were broken from the vivid thread of life ♦ may they rest in peace while we walk the generations around their strife and courage ♦ under these restless skies."
I continued with the audio guide tour stopping at the Jewel House. There wasn't a line-up to see the Crown Jewels so I thought I had better pop in while it was quiet. Two soldiers stand on guard outside the entrance. The exhibition includes the regalia of crowns, sceptres, orbs and swords used at coronations & state events. People have to move slowly around the cases but when it is not crowded it is easy to double back. Included in the audio guide tour were visits to the Bloody Tower known as the place the two sons of Edward IV were last seen. The controversy around Richard III's succession is ongoing. Sir Walter Raleigh spent 13 years imprisoned in the Bloody Tower. The White Tower now holds a large exhibit of
royal armour for Kings, children and horses. It also includes a weapon collection and the broken chair where the last execution by firing squad took place. This was a German spy during WWII. The Beauchamp Tower was used for high-ranking prisoners who were allowed to bring their own retinues. There is a lot of prisoner graffiti to view. Robert Dudley & his two brothers left their mark. They were imprisoned due to their father's involvement in the plot to put Jane Grey on the throne. Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel was imprisoned for 10 year as a threat to national security. He avoided execution by dying of an infection in 1595. The Medieval Palace was the residence of medieval monarchs such as Edward I. Henry III had his throne room in this building. On the grounds near the White Tower were remains of Roman city walls.
Lastly was a walk on the Tower walls. These battlements were only available on the East side of the complex. I spoke to one of the Yeomen. Their uniforms have the initials E II R for Queen Elizabeth. He said all the uniforms have to be replaced with C III R for Charles
III before the coronation. I enjoyed the sculptures of wire mesh animals representing the zoo that existed long ago. I also liked the creative wrought iron representations of various soldiers.
After over 3 hours of touring it was time to move on. The Tower of London is expensive but worth it. When I was leaving I noticed a very long line at the Jewel House. Arriving at opening time had been a good plan.
The All Hallows Tower Church was nearby. It is the oldest in London and has Roman brickwork and a Saxon arch from the original church. These are found in the crypt along with a Templar altar. The Saxon Abbey of Barking was founded at this location in 675 AD so the church is sometimes referred to as All Hallows Barking. The 2nd century Roman pavement was found in the crypt in 1926. The location near the Tower the London meant the church dealt with some of the beheaded bodies including Sir Thomas More.
In 1666 Admiral Penn (William Penn's father) and Samuel Pepys watched London burn from the tower of the church. William Penn (the founder of the state of Pennsylvania) was baptized
and schooled in this church. John Quincy Adams was married in the church in 1797. It was fire bombed during WWII, in 1940. Only the tower and the walls remained. The Queen mother laid a new foundation stone in 1948. One of the walls was left blackened with smoke damage. I was able to participate in a short tour. It is a small church but well looked after.
The Underground took me to the Churchill War Rooms. The museum is very comprehensive and has some interesting interactive areas but is very expensive. Many Cabinet War Rooms remain as well as a number of rooms and corridors that extend below Westminster. Just as I was thinking I had seen everything a fire alarm sounded and everyone had to evacuate anyway.
The Underground took me back to Victoria Station. I am pleased at how easily I am managing the subway but this is likely due to the excellent wayfinding signs. Stopping at a restaurant for dinner there were two women seated at the table next to me. I said, "sorry to interrupt but is that a Canadian accent I am hearing?" It turned out they were from Ontario and visited
Path to and from Hever
from the train station, along a road, along the public path, through a couple of sheep fields then along another road to reach the castle London once a year. We had a conversation for a good 20 minutes.
Friday, September 23 - Day 94 An early start was necessary for a day trip to Hever Castle. Even so after two trains I arrived at the unmanned station at 10:50 am. It was steadily raining. I was looking for the signs a guidebook said were obvious - a map & coloured posts. Not seeing anything I was thinking of using GPS when I noticed a couple looking at a sheaf of papers. I asked if they were going to the castle. When they said yes, I said I hoped they didn't mind if I followed them. After they agreed, I followed them around a road to a public pathway alongside trees and bushes. The ground was leafy, a little muddy and a little slippery due to the rain. In the end, I did see labels on three different gates but they were small and easily missed. We walked through 3 fields populated with sheep who looked our way curiously. This led to another public pathway once again through woodland eventually ending at a road. The couple stopped to let me know they were going
Hever Castle
on a drizzly day on a hike and pointed the way I should continue. I told them thank you very much and not to worry. The road led into the edge of town, around a pub to the entrance of the castle grounds.
My Historic Houses membership covered the entrance fees. The double-moated castle was built in the 13th - 14th century in 125 acres of grounds. It looks like a fairy tale medieval castle. From 1462 to 1539 Anne Boleyn lived here and was courted by Henry VIII. Anne of Cleves was given a lease to the castle as part of her divorce from Henry VIII. Anne added the Long Gallery and the Staircase Gallery connecting two wings of the house. She also remodelled the ceiling in the Dining Hall. In 1903 the American Astor family purchased the castle and kept it for 80 years. William W. Astor was responsible for restoring and adding extensions insisting on using Tudor and Elizabethan tools and materials. There were many rooms open to the public. These were filled with antiques, tapestries, beautiful furniture and paintings. I purchased a guidebook rather than try to take interior photos. The Astor's created beautiful gardens with a maze, ponds
and shops.
I did walk around some of the grounds but the steady rain continued so I didn't venture far. There is a Neo-Tudor village beside the castle built by William W. Astor referred to as the Astor Wing. It is used for events such as weddings and has 18 bedrooms available. I had paid attention to the route so did not have any difficulty finding my way back to the train station.
Once back in London I took the Underground to Westminster then caught a bus to go to the Imperial War Museum. It was about 3:30 pm when I arrived at the museum later than I wished. The exhibitions regarding WWI and WWII were excellent causing me to become so absorbed by the information that I was surprised by an announcement stating the museum was closing. This meant it was 6:00 pm!
Saturday, September 24 - Day 95 Today I had a ticket to Westminster Abbey. When I arrived there were hundreds of people in line. I was told everyone went into the same line regardless of whether or not they had a ticket. I was not happy. When an employee came by I
London - Westminster Abbey
The coronation church since 1066 & is the burial place of 17 monarchs. asked him what was the point of pre-booking. He claimed it was to guarantee a spot. This didn't make any sense since they were passing through everyone at the front of the line. He asked how many were in my party. I replied just me. He said to follow him and he took me to the front of the line. They let in so many people at the same time it was difficult to move. When I pre-booked my ticket there was a ticket counter so I thought this was how many people were to enter during a specific time period. I picked up an audio guide but had to wait in line to go to each point. I was very upset since the ticket was one of the most expensive of my trip. However, I tried to make the best of the situation.
I saw the coronation chair that is from 1297, the oldest piece of furniture in Britain still used for its original purpose. There were many, many tombs to view. These included Henry III, Mary Queen of Scots, Elizabeth I, Margaret Beaufort, Edward III and Anne of Cleves to name a few. The tomb of Edward
London - Westminster Abbey
Tomb of Margaret Beaufort - mother of Henry VII, grandmother of Henry VIII, a remarkable woman the Confessor was higher up off the floor so hard to see and hard to photograph.
Margaret Beaufort was married at 12 to Edmund Tudor (half-brother of Henry VI). He died of the plague after being captured by the Yorkists leaving Margaret a pregnant widow at 13. She gave birth to a son who would eventually become Henry VII. Due to her young age, she had a difficult delivery preventing any further children. Her child, removed from her care, was given to Edmund's brother Jasper although he did allow visits. She married her 2nd husband, a second cousin at age 14. He died in battle when she was 27. At 28 she married her 3rd husband. Her son Henry participated in a rebellion against Richard III causing the loss of all Margaret's titles and estates. With Margaret's support Henry's army beat Richard III in the Battle of Bosworth then she was able to secure the crown for him. She became very powerful and was considered the matriarch of the Tudors. Although I tend to side with the Yorkists, Margaret is a woman to admire.
Non-royal tombs included Oliver Cromwell, Geoffrey Chaucer, Darwin, Tennyson and Robert Browning. Of course
there were many statues and wall paintings. Britain's oldest door led to the Chapter House. The Lady Chapel had wonderful fan vaulting in the ceiling. The audio guide contained many descriptive gaps making it difficult to occasionally find the subject it was discussing. There were also areas I wanted to see that were not included. Due to the number of people around it was very difficult to find an employee to ask a question. I grew tired of fighting the crowds so found my way out.
I had thought Westminster Abbey would take the full day so didn't have other plans in place. I walked past the Royal Horse Guard to Trafalgar Square. There I stopped to visit St Martins in the Field Church but couldn't spend much time since they were closing for an event. I decided to use the Underground to go to the Victoria and Albert Museum. From the train station there is a subway that goes directly to the museum. In Britain a subway is an underground pedestrian tunnel. It is a museum of art, design and performance. This means they have exhibits on fashion, theatre, decorative art, furniture and architecture. All the museums are
Leaving London
suitcase wheels worn out - leather fell off some time ago due to all the kilometres free so I wandered around a little but my heart wasn't in the visit. I felt it was a somewhat unsatisfactory day plus I was feeling blue that my trip was ending.
I had to have an early night in order to get up very early the next morning to arrive at Gatwick for my flight home. I lay in bed seriously considering what it would be like back home. I had been so happy while traveling, all general anxiety had slowly dissipated, every day my curiosity was piqued and for the most part, I felt at peace. I realized just how fearless & self-reliant anyone can be when solo traveling.
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