My Coast to Coast Journey

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August 26th 2006

Published: September 17th 2006

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Coffeecat

Get Ready...Set...GO!!

Me taking off from Robin Hood's Bay

Day One: Robin Hood's Bay to Littlebeck

When my RTW trip came to an end last May, I immediately began racking my brain for something challenging that I could plan in my near future. I organised the travel talk in a London theatre (was a fab night!!) but still felt that I needed a physical and geographic challenge, within the UK. What I came up with, had never been something that I had aspired to do, but it ticked all the right boxes for me. Walking in England has been ingrained into the lifestyles of many that live within the rolling hills. And though I have been on many day hikes during my 10 years in this country, I have never completed a long distance walk. So I chose to complete the Coast to Coast walk, made famous by Alfred Wainwright in the 1970's. Starting at Robin Hood's Bay on the East coast and finishing at St. Bee's on the West coast, the walk covers 191.5 miles (307 km.) of terrain. Sooooo...yeah, I'm going to walk it. No training, and still awful at reading maps, but what the hell?!!

I spent a couple of days in Durham with

Robin Hood's Bay

This is the pub most walkers end their journey in. For me? It was just beginning!!

family friends; something I would recommend for anybody starting a long walking journey. There is a lot to be said for family comforts and home cooking, most especially before stepping off with a twenty kilo backpack strapped to me. But the time did roll around where I had to start making tracks. I was dropped off by Pat and Chris in Robin Hood's Bay at 10 am. It was nice that I was familiar with the start of this walk, as I had joined my mom and Ian walking from the same location to Whitby earlier in the year. The North sea crashed on the rocks below the cliffs whilst the cows and sheep gazed at me with wonder as I cruised along the edge of their fields. The salty smell in the air was thoroughly invigorating; I took each step with great enthusiasm. When the time came where I had to break away from the trail I was familiar with, I felt my first few nerves.

"Is this trail really supposed to go right through the trailer park" I thought?

And the answer is yes, although here in the UK they are often called caravan parks. I

Cliff top trail

Robin Hood's Bay is behind me

may look at these land masses filled with large rectangular tins as eyesores, but even I need to remember that this type of housing is a cheaper way to sometimes get the most incredible view, as on the cliff edge south of Whitby. Young families, retired couples and even aspiring writers can base themselves here and get on with life. I may need to consider this option upon my return to Canada, as I certainly won't be able to afford a downtown apartment or even a log cabin in the woods just yet!!

So I continued walking and following the map very efficiently through country lanes, fields, villages and woods. I was hoping to strike up a few conversations with people, but I soon learned that this wasn't going to be an easy option. Most people that crossed my path, did just that. It's difficult to start chit chatting with people walking in the opposite direction; 95% of Coast to Coast walkers complete the journey from west to east. So why oh why was I completing it east to west? I suppose I dared to be different!! In time I will learn if my decision is the right or

Getting a free ride!

You meet all types on the trail! This couple found a way to accomodate for their dogs' arthritus!

wrong one. Everybody I meet tells me that I'll be facing the most difficult climbs after 10-12 days of exhaustive walking, and that I will be walking against the wind. I just see my route as saving the best views for last whilst the wind will keep my hair out of my face in addition to building my endurance!

The planned distance to cover for my first day was 15.5 miles (25 km.) I still hadn't worked out the most efficient way to get my pedometer working (as it kept telling me I had just completed one mile!), but I assumed I had covered about half of my journey. My book guided me to a gate edging the start of the beautiful purple moors. The flowering heather surrounded me and brought back memories of exploring Scotland with my family as a child. I wish I had my family still with me whilst I tackled this walk, as finding the right sheep trail through the low level bushes was turning out to be an absolute nightmare. I backtracked once, something I cursed myself with in the hours to come. I dug out my compass and searched my personal memory bank

Caravan Park...

...on the coast to coast??

for those instructions I received in brownie camp in 1981. I did a few circles like a dog chasing his tail, and then my eye caught sight of cars whizzing along the western horizon. I bolted in their direction assured that I had found the road I was supposed to cross. I squinted my eyes to try and make out the sign in the distance, and discovered I was very, very off track.

"Should I jump on that bus to Middlesborough? Should I walk back to Robin Hood's Bay? Should I re-enter the moors and try and find the correct direction?

These thoughts were immediately followed with, "What the hell am I doing? Why didn't I concentrate harder in brownie camp? Maybe I should just set up camp here?"

So I walked in one direction for 10 minutes, changed my mind and went the opposite direction; an hour later I had found my way. It was only the passing walkers with maps hanging around their necks that stopped me from kissing the coast to coast post confirming directions. I wiped the sweat from my brow and smiled with confidence that I had survived my first hicup of

HELLLLLOOOO!

As said before, you meet all types whilst on the trail!

solitary long distance walking. It was now time for me to power walk and make up for lost time. I soon reached an emerald green forest and let my mind wander as I followed the trail alongside a trickling stream. THIS is why I'm doing this trail! I've missed this quiet time with myself, thoughts racing towards a state of calm. Perhaps I became too calm with each step forward...I had missed a pretty crucial trail marker.

I found an alternative route into the town of Littlebeck. Of course, this was up a few too many extremely steep hills that provoked a few curses to escape from my normally polite speech (even to oneself!) As my feet were starting to throb with aches and pains from the first day of walking, I decided to cut my original plans short and find a spot to camp. As I started down the driveway to a farm I had in my book as the best camping spot in town, the farmer pulled up on his tractor and turned me around 180 degrees pointing me towards another very very steep hill. So it really does happen in three's doesn't it? That stroke of

Wheat

bad luck, or more simply put, my inaccuracies in following the map were clearly over for the day as I would soon be crawling into my own tent.

The pounding pain in my feet had been such a rhythm to walk by, that I actually forgot to take my boots off as I sat down to indulge in a cupa tea and scones at the 'Intake Farm'. But I finally came to my senses, and dug into my bag for my trusty flip flops as I proceeded to set up my tent in the front yard.

"Yall raght luv? Ya needa man put that tent t'gether fr ya?"

Just my luck that the other campers happened to be a couple of Yorkshire lads thinking they could rescue a damsel in distress with their kind words. I set them straight, climbed into my cosy tent, and reflected on day one (Yes! Still only day one, can you believe it?) I didn't make my original target of 15.5 miles to Grosmont, and although it's only 13 miles to my stopping point in Littlebeck, I'm sure I completed at least 15 or 16 miles with getting lost so many times.

On the right trail!

Which I'm pleased at having completed on the first day.

Points Learned Day One:
*Carry more than one kind of map. Walking maps are crucial, but road maps are rather helpful too. Especially if you can read them
*Don't plan too much for the first day, it's a tiring routine to get into
*Go through some sort of training ahead of time...just like everybody told me to. Having an approximation in time of the miles you can cover at an individual pace is pretty important

Money Spent Day One: £2.20 lunch, £4 camp/shower: TOTAL £6.20

Distance Covered Day One: 15 miles

Day Two: Littlebeck to Blakey Ridge

I didn't spend any money on dinner 'cuz I fell asleep. Twelve hours later I crept out of my tent with a few sore muscles, and a growling belly. I had a traditional english breakfast and got
some tips from the farmer's wife about a shortcut back onto the Coast Trail. I made my way through some dewy fields, along the edges of private gardens and under power lines. It was
a good start to the day and I felt as

Cruising through village life

It felt like a perfect spot to stop for a cupa, but I needed to keep going!!

though I had bypassed all of the possible hiccups. And then I saw it. More moors. My dreaded walking terrain, but as this is Yorkshire, I'm afraid there will be a many more over the next few days! So I ran into the purple fields with great strides, and only redirected myself twice. I greeted a few of the locals (I do a great bbbbaaaaaaa) and proceeded down the hill into Grosmont.

There is one particular feature that has put Grosmont on the map for enthusiasts around the world. Most recently seen in the first Harry Potter film, the famous steam engine trains pull
into the station with great gusto. Clouds of steam puff into the air and even over the toot of the train whistle, you can hear the cameras clicking each second. It was a great sight, but I didn't have time to ponder for long. I had an additional 16 miles to cover, and the knowledge that there would be absolutely nowhere to make camp earlier if I lost my way (I haven't quite got the nerve for wild camping yet) set me on the path towards Blakey Ridge quickly.

I've now figured out where

Phone Servcie?!!

I usually go so wrong on the map reading. I seem to loose the trail on the edge of the page in my book, and of course, leaving Grosmont is on the edge of the page. I didn't figure this out until I was catching my breath at the top of a very steep hill, "Ohhhhh, that squiggle is a river I'm supposed to be walking beside!". Luckily the road I was on led to the same village I was aiming for, but of course it added two miles to my day. I arrived at Egton Bridge with enough time to notice there was a train leaving in a few moments that would cover 2 miles to Glaisdale. Sooooo, just a little cheating to make up for map reading errors!

Being back on track gave me a boost of confidence as I started walking across more of the Yorkshire Moors. The route seemed pretty straight forward for once, so I put my head down and and tried to quicken my pace. Heaving my life on my back, there was only so much steam I could give and I accepted that I might not be completing this walk in the

Sheep

14 days I was hoping for. Why oh why did I decide to carry everything myself? Determination is a great characteristic, but even I must accept some realities!! But I pushed on, walking through the growing pains in my feet and more recently, my knee. The skies then opened and I found a tractor to escape the downpour from the skies; hopefully the local farmer won't mind. Luckily, it was only a quick shower so I was able to return to walking. Hours seemed to pass as I traipsed on and on and on. I saw signs telling me I only had 4 miles to go, but I had all ready reached my limit. My aches became heavy hindrances; even on my round the world trip I had never felt such pains. Am I feeling age creeping up on me at 32? Perhaps, but then again, I'll be the first to admit that maybe I've bitten off more than I can chew.

When I finally staggered onto the camping field opposite the Lion Inn pub, I was greeted with bank holiday crowds. I found a patch to pitch my tent and began offloading all of my gear. I was

Purple Dales

Leaving the North Sea and entering the land of heather!

half way through putting up my tent, when I was blown over by more than just the heavy gales.

"You're on your own? You need help with your tent?"

Immediately my response was racing through my brain, "NO NO NO-Just 'cuz I'm a girl on my own DOES NOT mean I need help!!!" How ridiculous is it that I was all ready facing a repeat attitude form the night previous. I found every millisecond as frustrating as a rubiks cube. And it was at that very moment that I looked up at my saviours; they all ready had their paws all over my fly sheet clipping and pegging just as I needed. All I could do was laugh; they were all girls. The relief was immediate and although this group of 5 or 6 lesbians from different areas of the country seemed to have more energy than I could even think of mustering, I wasn't needing to stand up for my individual rights...or was I?

I escaped the craziness of the outdoors and studied the damage I did to my body from my day of walking. I wasn't sure if it was the light in my tent

Quiet Roads

The roads in the english countryside are wide enough for me, but a couple of vehicles passing certainly challenge a few novice drivers!

blowing things out of proportion, but it seemed as though my feet had swollen far beyond Big Foot himself. There were only a couple of blisters, but the look of raw flesh on my heels wasn't to comforting. I've had my hiking boots with me around the world, so why such damage now? Bugger bugger bugger. And then I had a look at my knee, swollen and sore, and not up for an immediate return to miles of walking. So leading up to day 3, and I've decided to take a break. Tomorrow, I ain't goin nowhere! And for the rest of the night? I joined the girls for a well deserved steak dinner with a few pints. Nothing too crazy, although they were a very crazy crowd! I soon crawled into my sleeping bag and read 1/2 a page in my book before ending my day with a few more thoughts.

Points Learned Day Two:
*Don't carry more than water and a map
*Study the map in detail every 1/4 mile
*Ask everybody along the way, "Is this the right direction for...?"

Money Spent Day Two: £5 breakfast, £1.60 fruit & chocolate, £2.50 camp/shower,

Steam Train

£5 well deserved beer, £12 well deserved dinner:TOTAL £26.10

Distance Covered Day Two: 17 miles

Day Three: Stationary at Blakey Ridge

Day Three Plan of Action: Breakfast, lunch and dinner at the pub. Maybe a bit of reading and writing.

And I was able to follow my own plan with no major problems, apart from the lack of phone and email options (no service in the middle of nowhere!!). I helped the girls take their tents down, had a coffee and bid them all farewell followed by sitting in every corner of the pub throughout the day.

Points Learned Day Three:
Same as yesterday!

Money Spent Day Three: £3 Breakfast, £2.50 Lunch, £1.20 coffee, £1.80 public phone, £2.50 camp/shower, £5 beer, £7.50 dinner:TOTAL £23.50

Distance Covered Day Three: .01 of a mile...maybe! (tent to pub)

Day Four: Blakey Ridge to Richmond

It was a bit spooky last night as the wind was so fierce my tent walls were bulging inwards. I laid in my sleeping bag wearing nearly every piece of clothing that I have with me and couldn't help imagining my tent rolling over with

Sssshhhhhhh

me in it resembling a linconshire sausage. But my tent proved to be a winner as the pegs kept me grounded. I was the only tent in the field so every now and then when I heard a sound other than the howls of the winds surrounding me, I had to peak out the door flap to assure my safety. I was greeted by several sheep grazing through the night, don't they ever sleep? When the clock finally hit 6am, I setup my stove and brewed my first coffee for the day, aaahhhh. I have actually resorted to using instant sachets of 'cappuccino', glamourously sprinkled with chocolate. In any other circumstance I would find this concoction quite repulsive, but whilst camping, it's heaven!

My knees and feet were ready for another day of walking, but I knew I wouldn't be able to make up my lost time. So I've opted for another easy day, although I won't be lounging in the pub for it's entirety. I have arranged transport to the biggest town on the coast to coast walk, Richmond. On one half of the coin, I am greatly disappointed in myself for not managing the walk. But on

Swollen Feet

If only you could feel the pain!!!

the other half of the coin, I'm pleased that I'm now able to see more than just the walk. I will still be completing the coast to coast, just not all on foot.

When I finally arrived in Richmond (I had hitched a ride with the baggage transport company thus took the loong route!) I checked into my B+B quickly. It felt a bit strange not having to set up my tent right away but as the campsite was 2 miles out of town, my luxury accommodation was the best option. As I handed over the money for my nights stay, my hand began to tremble. £35 would have housed me for two weeks in Asia; how frustrating! I dumped my gear in my room and started to hike up the hill into town. I had read ahead that the library offered internet access and my need to touch base drew out a desperation that was slightly alarming. Isn't it strange how when I was in the regular working world, weeks would pass before I found the time to log in. But now that I've been travelling, my dependency on communication has become foremost. Hhhmmmm, how life has changed!

Pub Life

This is where I became know as 'Laptop Lady' tapping away in the dark corners of the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge!

After touching base with the cyber world, I roamed the streets of Richmond for a bite to eat. Having spent a few days eating pub food I have grown tired of the pub offerings. Don't get me wrong, it's mostly quality food! Bangers and mash, chops and veg, pies with chips; but all I crave now is a crunchy vegetable stir fry or noodles/rice with sauce. I found a cheap Italian restaurant and felt assured my taste buds would soon be devouring a gorgeous risotto. After a rather lengthy description of what a risotto was, I gave up and ordered a spaghetti bolognaise. It got me thinking a little bit about meal favourites in more remote areas. If udon noodles are never offered in the local shop, who's to know what they even are? One lady I struck up a conversation with at the pub, had never tried spinach before; as she was in her 50's I did find this quite shocking. Living in the bigger cities and travelling to different parts of the world is such a food education that most people take for granted. So I suppose it'll be "meat and two (over boiled) veg please?" for

My tent and neighbours

Camping out in Blakey Ridge was a lonely second night!

the next little while as I live the simple life across the country!

I returned to my accommodation for the night and took great pleasure in being able to wash my clothes. Hiking and camping can certainly arouse some peculiar odours!! And then I couldn't help burying my head into my pillow and rolling myself up in the duvet. After camping I promise I will never take for granted the basic comforts of a bed! No lumps and no slope to contend with make sleep so so so much easier! Although, as I had a telly in my room I was drawn to the modern addiction of watching a little CSI before going to sleep.

Points Learned Day Four:
*Relaxation mixed with ice packs and hot packs do wonders for injuries
*I can max out on traditional english meals
*Internet/Email can be too addictive

Money Spent Day Four: £2.40 coffees, £7.95 lunch, £15 transport, £35 B+B, £4.50 washing, £5.95 dinner, £1 Stamp/Postcard, £3 Internet:TOTAL £74.80

Distance Covered Day Four: 1 mile-skipped out on walking 46 miles by taking the bus!

Day Five: Richmond to Reeth

Having had the most restful sleep ever, today

The Gals

began by leisurely examining the building that housed my B+B. Restored in 1689 (and a couple more times up to the current) every nook and cranny seemed to have a story to tell. From the eighteenth century sundials to the Georgian sash windows, it was a pleasure to sit down and lounge over my coffee imagining the earlier lives that lived in the premises. When owner Alan Bennett appeared wearing his chefs' hat, I knew the breakfast I had coming would be fulfilling! I was soon brought back to my thoughts from the day previous about food in England, this time focussing in on the breakfast fry up. When I say fry up, I really mean it! To understand where I'm coming from, think about consuming this first thing in the morning:

• fried eggs
• bacon
• sausage
• fried bread
• baked beans
• fried mushrooms
• fried tomato
• hash browns
• black pudding (blood sausage)

It must be said, I didn't consume all of the above! I have to draw a line at fried bread and blood sausage, they quite simply don't tickle my taste

Tent Down

buds. And not every traditional breakfast will offer you all of the above...but they could. It seems that builders and plumbers consume these meals more regularly than the rest of us, usually in the next-door caf. My question to the english public, how did such a cholesterol high meal become the favourite of the nation?

Slowly moving on from my morning meal of champions, I hit the shops in town. I decided to stock up on items to make the hiking aspect of this expedition, more of a joy. I am now kitted out like the pro walkers of the land, with the most important items: walking poles and a map. And they don't come cheap might I add! I ended up having a lengthy chin wag with the shop workers, bitching about the costs of being an adventurist. At least I'll be back to saving a few bucks by camping soon. I continued exploring the town of Richmond, revelling in its cobble stoned streets and mining history. The castle that has become the center point within the town, was built in the 11th Century by Alan the Red. I don't actually know anything more about the guy, but

Richmond Castle

I couldn't find the best angle myself, so poster it is!!

it sounds like such a character would have a few stories to discover! I poked my head into the well presented museum and even managed to join the set of 'All Creatures Great and Small'. So my time in lovely Richmond has even covered a bit of television history-who ever would have guessed? The walk to the next stop along my route is 10.5 miles, a breeze in comparison to my first couple of days. But as a result of my morning shopping spree, I didn't have that many hours to spare. I decided to take a bus for half of the journey, and walking only 5 miles to break in my new poles and insoles.

Before boarding the local bus, I attempted to sort the logistics of transporting my gear to and from each stop along the way. I was immediately faced with problems. My decision to be different and complete the walk in the opposite direction to everybody else, is preventing me from using the luggage service from Sherpa. Quite simply, I'm just going the wrong way. But as I now realise I can't carry my entire bag with me all the time (in order to avoid

All Creatures Great and Small Set

It felt rather strange seeing such a familiar setting within the Richmond museum!

the swollen knees and feet and pure exhaustion!) I'm probably going to have to be without the bulk of my bag, every other night. Should be interesting how this works out; I won't bore you with the details yet!

The walk into Reeth was very pleasant; crossing farmers fields and through woodland trails. I did discover a couple of unusual features along the way; a gravestone for a man named Thomas Peacock. He died in 1762, but more notable was that he died at the age of 102! He must have had hundreds of great great grandkids running around the dinner table! There were also 375 steps called 'Nun's Steps' put in place by the hard working ladies wanting a proper route to the abbey, what dedication! I arrived in Reeth and quickly set up my tent (I'm sure I'll break the 3 minute record by the end of this trip!) I then raced across a couple of fields and entered the 94th Annual Agricultural Show. I was annoyed at having to pay £5 entry, but soon forgot my money bitches when I saw the action within the grounds. Being an animal lover, I was in the perfect surroundings.

Richmnd Rooftops

The rooftops even have character!

Toothless farmers were hugging their prize winning sheep as children ran around in circles on cotton candy highs. Teams of sheep dogs worked hard in the central field to impress their masters (and the crowds!). It was such a jovial event that clearly displayed the characters of the area. I entered one of the marquee tents and was struck with giggles at country life instantly. Tables were covered with entries into numerous competitions. Here are a few class descriptions: 6 pods of peas, 3 onions (washed, but not dressed), 6 hen eggs-1 to be broken (saucer not provided), 6 queen cakes, most colourful gent's tie, a knitted hat, 4 maids of honour (not iced) and what I found to be the most entertaining entry, an edible monster. It was such a smiling insight into country life that I couldn't help but wonder whether I should be putting more efforts towards finding a simple farmer husband!

At the end of the day, I strolled over to one of the local pubs in town to study my route for the next day of walking. Considering my footsteps throughout the day were only oftrack for less than fifty feet, my newly purchased

Richmond Houses

maps have become money well spent. I suppose as each day goes by I will re-educate myself with what many of the symbols actually mean! After my map studies, I concentrated on pint drinking and people watching. I was surrounded by many loud celebrations amongst the locals, but it just added to the positivity of my day. Reeth and Richmond will certainly leave me with lasting impressions!!

Points Learned Day Five:
*There is a lot to be said for country life
*Preparation for long term walking is key
*I can assemble my tent in 3 minutes

Money Spent Day Five: £40 Walking Poles, £28.46 Maps & Holder, £15.99 Knee Brace, £1.79 Moleskin, £22.49 Insoles, £3 Snack bars, £2 Museum Entrance, £3.30 coffee and scones, £12 Two Day Baggage Transfer, £1.80 Bus Ticket, £5 Fair Entrance, £2 Dinner, £4.60 Beer, £5 Camp/Shower, £.6 Phone calls:TOTAL £147.03 = BIG Day!!

Distance covered Day Five: 5 miles-skipped out on 5.5 by taking the bus

Day Six: Reeth to Keld

Today is the first day that I'm trekking without the bulk of my pack. In it's entirety it weighs 18 kilos so I'm relieved to have found the

Chin Wagging at the outdoor shop

I am now fully equipped with gear and gossip!

£6 baggage transfer service to carry the weight for me. As I dropped off my pack at the collection point, I was approached by the campsite owner. I started to snarl under my breath as he hadn't been very friendly with me when I arrived yesterday (he had guided me to my pitch area as he sat on the thrown of his lawnmower, then uttered just two words; "Five pounds"!). Perhaps his wheetabix had kicked in as he began chatting and smiling and telling me stories from campers past. It took me 30 minutes to get away! But I finally began making tracks to Keld. I opted for the low route, not needing to challenge my joints until entering the lake district.

I strolled along the river Swale, squeezed through numerous styles, and began singing songs to entertain myself. Is this why I'm walking solo? Does my singing offend people? I had the time to overanalyse my travelling style, and still feel fairly confident that my approach to travelling alone is entertaining. My songs are light hearted and jovial as I figured adding a few air guitar moves to grunge songs from my past might make people think I

Fry Up is served

When my breakfast was brought to me, I couldn't stifle a giggle at the presentation!

was a complete freak! The songs I learned back in Brownie camp still seem to keep me going, and as they occasionally involve barnyard animal sounds in the chorus, I figure it's a friendly way to say hello to all the animals I'm passing in the fields!

Referring to my maps seems to have reduced the number of times I get lost within the day, although not entirely. I created my own trail across a few rabbit metropolises leading up to the village of Gunnerside. It was a gorgeous day and the sun was shining so I opted for a pub lunch to keep me going to Keld. I popped into the phone booth to book a campsite for the next leg of the journey, and quickly realized that even Superman would be jealous of my surroundings. There is something to be said for little touches as the traditional red phone booth in the village was carpeted with a small vase of flowers and a lavender air freshner hanging above my head. Had I transported myself to a booth in London I would be faced with a grungy urine smelling chamber filled with postcards of half naked women advertising

The English Fry Up

This clearly defines an English Breakfast!

their services. Aaahhhh, country life!

Although I would have preferred taking a nap in the sunshine following my pub lunch, I pressed on. The trail lead me past several abandoned houses and bits of machinery. Swaledale valley had been mined since the Roman times and became the hotspot within the industry in the mid 19th century. Yorkshire produced 10 percent of the lead mining within the country and as Britain contributed over half of the world's lead, it was certainly a prosperous area. But prosperous for the mine owners only, as the workers themselves suffered appalling conditions. South America began providing cheaper imports and the decline within the Yorkshire industry was rapid. Now I walk along a path and see a cluster of roofless houses, crumbling into the sourrounding fields. Imagining the laughter in the school house I appreciate the history that made the area...and keep moving on.

When I walked into the youth hostel in Keld I was eagerly anticipating talking to some other travellers. I overheard a familiar accent and was intrigued. How ironic is it that I then met two girls from my hometown of Vancouver. I feel awful now as I don't remember their

Prize Eggs

names-why didn't I get their emails?! (do send me a message if your reading this ladies!!) I heard of their walking adventures and was given a few tips for what I would soon be seeing the following day. It certainly wasn't the most glamourous of youth hostels, but it was an appreciated stop in the middle of nowhere.

Points Learned Day Six:
*Stinging nettles can sting through trousers
*Animals flock to my sing alongs as I walk
*It's a small small world sometimes

Money Spent Day Six: £9 Lunch & Beer, £1.10 Phone calls, £13.90 Hostel, £8 Dinner:TOTAL £32

Distance covered Day Six: 11 miles/17.5 km

Day Seven: Keld to Kirkby Stephen

It was a bit gloomy at breakfast as we stared out of the windows and saw nothing but grey skies and big puddles forming. I had read in my book that there were boggy areas to be avoided in the driest of times, and searched an alternative route to complete the walk to Kirkby Stephen. I decided on taking the road for the entire journey as it wouldn't be adding any miles to the day and still seemed to pass through

Farmer and Prize

It was nice to see such pride in the farmers faces!

scenic areas. There were a few moments where the sun was able to shine through, but for the most part of the day, I was pretty drenched! I stopped for lunch in between the signage informing drivers they were leaving Yorkshire and entering Cumbria. It became clear later on in my journey that I wasn't the only one to come up with a personal photo shoot in this location.

I soon realized another advantage to walking along the road as my map remained tucked into my day pack; I wasn't using too much of my walking time checking that I was still heading in the right direction! As a result, I arrived in Kirkby Stephen in fantastic time. My tent was up and my clothes were in the washing machine and I was able to enjoy an afternoon of coffees and internet in town! So the route helped in speeding my walking time up, but I certainly think it was the lack of a large pack on my back as well. I had a wonderful evening cooking my own dinner on my mini stove and tucking into bed with my book and head torch.

Points Learned Day Seven:

Reeth Show

They one a fiver

*Less weight on your back results in quicker steps
*I can assemble my tent in 2 minutes and 38 seconds
*Life in Vancouver and the UK has lead me to accept rain for what it is: wet, no further complaints

Money Spent Day Seven: £3 Breakfast, £3 Packed Lunch, £3 Internet, £5 Camp/Shower, £2.50 Washing, £.90 Coffee, £.90 Dinner:TOTAL £18.30

Distance Covered Day Seven: 13 miles/21 km

So there you have it, my first week of the coast to coast journey! Second week is coming...as I board a flight to Iceland! See you all soon!!!

Fiona

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