Newcastle

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I had ordered breakfast at the inn and I was very impressed to see that they had taken my message about being a vegan seriously and bought some soya milk. So I had a lovely full English vegan breakfast. The staff were very friendly and I had a quick chat with the lady about Sweden and travelling before I left in my taxi. So the Shoes in Durham is a good place to stay if you're ever in the area.

The short train ride to Newcastle (about 20 mins) took me past Antony Gormley's sculpture The Angel of the North, which you can see clearly from the train when passing Gateshead. I was supposed to be taking it very easy due to still feeling ill but I just had to go down to the riverside to see the Tyne and its various bridges. Managed to find the most exerting route ever down loads of steps with my wheely bag, but I made it and saw the famous swing bridge, even if I didn't see it in action. There was also a pleasant street food market where I found Persian food and coffee.

Pottered around the town and bought food and a few other necessities (if you can count books as such, which I do) and got a sense of the city. Wondered if the Earl Grey referred to was of tea fame (turns out it was named after him). Plenty of people, young and old, were wearing the t-shirts of the local football team. Got the impression that this is a place where people know how to have a good time, even if they're not the richest. A good atmosphere, like in Durham. I usually feel more comfortable in the north than in the south, people are generally more laid back.

Just before three, I boarded the transfer bus to the ferry at North Shields. I'd already decided that I would stay in my cabin and relax for the evening, and that's exactly what I did. Made some headway with my book and didn't step outside the door. A calm crossing.

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