Needed back home

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I've returned to the UK to help my parents following deterioration in my fathers health.



This is a full account of my time spent sailing the Med this summer. On 19 August I arrived in Rhodes from Manchester. The Amel, Rhumb Runner, owned by Chris Price, is home for the Med adventure and is berthed in the Mandraki Marina. Rhodes, known as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world because of the statue of Colossos, constructed between 304 and 293BC, is the largest island of the Dodecanese. The construction of Colossus took twelve years and greeted those arriving at the harbour entrance. It represents the sun god Hellos and stood until an earthquake in 226BC. Rhodes stands at the crossroads of the two sea routes of the Med between the Aegean and the coasts of the Middle East. The island of Rhodes has been inhabited by many different people who've left their mark on the culture, art, language and architecture and because of it's strategic location it became wealthy and a prominent city of Ancient Greece. The capital is on the northern tip and has a medieval city which has UNESCO status. As we were driven to the supermarket an ancient ruin was pointed out, it was the temple dedicated to Apollo and had been built 2400 years before.



After provisioning and a day to prepare we untied the dock lines for our first day sail to Kamari on the island of Kos which was 67 miles in 15-20 knot winds. The next day was a 37 mile hop to the island of Scala where we Med moored in the harbour and went ashore for the evening. A large Greek warship was at anchor outside the bay and I wondered if they were on the look out for migrants trying to make landfall as has been a huge problem of late.



By day four, after a day on bigger seas with winds gusting to 30, we arrived in the bay below the town of Ioa on the northern end of the volcanic island of Santorini, took a mooring and a stern line ashore. The town overlooks a caldera which is a body of water within the sunken outer remains of a volcano that died. The island is loved for it's quintessential white washed villages with blue domes and window frames perched high on cliff tops which appear to have organically formed from the contours of the land. Paul and I went ashore passing a dozen donkeys and mules being cajoled down a steep path to collect tourists who come to the island on a day trip. It's a short, steep climb to the top and you're rewarded by a charming experience despite the place swarming with visitors as sunset approaches. After nightfall we were in a good position to watch a firework display which was probably arranged for the benefit of the cruise ships which anchor within the caldera.



The grib files which provide local weather data showed winds and seas building over the coming week but by making progress towards the most southern Greek Islands, the Polyponese group, we might experience greeted by lesser winds for our overnight passage of 120 miles. Well that didn't quite work as expected as the forecast underestimated conditions of the Meltemi wind which blew 30 knots, gusting 35. To change that to a gale force rating you add 5 and divide by 5 so it was about a gale force 7. It was very uncomfortable as we beat (close hauled) with heavy seas. Made landfall the next morning feeling a little beaten up as I was seasick three times and left feeling shaky. A morning to recover and explore the area - even blowing 25 knots in what was predicted to be a sheltered area so headed for the small town of Neapolis on the opposite side of the caldera where we pulled alongside the quay opposite the area where the ferry docks. Great wifi in town at a coffee stop and we were close enough to use it back onboard in the evening too.



The next day Wednesday we crossed the bay - just about a 25 mile day on the water with the wind 110 degrees off the bow and a steady 8 knot sail with all sails flying to Porto Kayio on the southern finger of that Greek peninsula - it was another very cute caldera. Refugees have been arriving in this area as well as Kos.



A 30+ mile sailing day to Methoni with light winds. Another lovely fortified coastal town with a huge castle defending the headland - the battle of Navarinon took place there. A treaty was drawn up in 1827 between a coalition of Great Britain, France and Russia outlining that Greece would have automony under the control of the Turks, which the Turks didn't agree to. The British senior admiral Codrington had powers of discretion in policing the treaty and a battle ensued which was fought at anchor between the British forces and the Turko- Egyptians who'd created a semi circle of ships so the allied force was sabotaged on arriving in port. However the allied forces won due to the efficiency of the European gun crew. England expressed regret over the incident and France mopped up opposition in the Peloponnisos and in the end Greece was free. We ate ashore at a typical Greek restaurant called Nikos and I had stuffed zucchini flowers and calamari. Learned that Daddy was home from another hospital stay having overdone it again. I hope he learns to pace himself soon otherwise they'll be keeping a room reserved for him at the Nuffield.



Sailing up the coast to Pylos where we may be able to exchange an empty propane cylinder and provision for the crossing to Sicily which is a 2 night passage. A sleepy but fairly full harbour and a town with a French influence architecturally. Enjoyed an evening eating local lamb and watching the world go by from one of the many seafront restaurants. Fuelled up but didn't manage to get propane.



Left late morning for the passage to Sicily - into three hour watch cycles from the start and experiencing light winds as forecast. Chris cooked pasta Bolognese for our evening meal during his 6-9pm watch. Dolphins and a tired bird visited and an Italian warship circled us the next day and those were the highlights other than the sheer beauty of the sky and waves which I'll never tire of. Chris copied many of my worldwide pilot books and music from my hard drive for his circumnavigation and I copied his music in exchange. With 150 miles to go we are making our own wind with our forward motion so are motoring with the main and mizzen flying for when the wind fills in. Moroccan stew being prepared by me for dinner from my Moosewood Recipe Book but sadly not coinciding with my watch so I get to prepare dinner, clear up and stand a full three hour watch. Double standards at play with the galley.



Approaching Southern Italy we will enter the Strait of Messina which separates Sicily from mainland Italy. I'm using the Italian Waters Pilot by Rod Heikell to learn about local conditions - winds, tides and currents. The winds which will influence our sailing here are the Gregale and Scirocco - thereafter the Tramontana if we sail up the west coast of Italy to get sail repair work in northern Sardinia -awaiting confirmation from Turkish sailmaker as to whether this is under warranty. Prevailing winds are NW-W-SW - a sea breeze getting up around midday and dying at night. Tides are one hour forty minutes before Gibraltar so low tide occurs from about 11. First land sighting at 10am. Light to no wind so a 24 hour period under motor before a short sail using what Chris calls the mizzen balloona which did it's best beam reach in dying winds. This part of Italy is arid and the sea greeting us more like a millpond than the waters around Greece with the Meltemi wind influence. Overnight in the small marina at Reggio de Calabria - a rather industrial port with little to recommend it as a destination! Provisioned the next morning having had a pizza fest (two of the largest pizzas known to man) the previous evening. I should clarify ... Paul tucked in heartily while the rest of us looked on hoping not to get in the way of a feeding frenzy!



Through the Messina Straits to the Aeolian Islands which lie 35 miles from the coast of Sicily. The islands are peaks of volcanoes and two remain active - Stromboli and Gran Cratere on Vulcano. The islands take their name from Aeolus, the god of the winds - it was he who gave Odysseus the contrary winds tied up in a bag but near to Ithaca his sailors opened it believing there was treasure inside and yet again he was blown away from his homeland. Although the are no really secure harbours, there are sufficient harbours and anchorages sheltered from the prevailing summer winds to make it a worthwhile cruising area. We visited the island of Vulcano and enroute encountered the local style of fishing boat with a high platform for spotting swordfish and tuna and the longest bowsprit I've seen from where they harpoon the fish. Constant sulphur burps from the volcano along with small puffs of smoke as we sat an anchor below. Had the nastiest jellyfish sting on my leg which left raised welts and felt like a burn. Anchored for the night and went ashore the next day to wander around. Cruised to Isola Lipari for the afternoon and onto Salina where we anchored overnight. We anchored in the bay in front of what looked like a disused quarry in the clearest patches of turquoise water.



A hop, skip and a jump to a rather cute village Rinella with a ferry dock. Chris dropped the hook and we ended up in the area designated to ferries entries and departures. A couple of guys came out in a dinghy to move me as I was the only one aboard and the ferry couldn't pass. They kicked the stern round and secured me with a stern line to a buoy. They weren't impressed that the captain had left the vessel in that place. Another early start and a long day to Mondello near Pallermo where we anchored overnight. Two day passage to Sardinia and stayed at Capo Carbonara marina, across the bay for a swim and beach time. Two nights at sea to Palma in Mallorca where I explored the old part of the city for a day before disembarking for home.

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