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Poor Katherine. She woke up with a cold (actually, it was coming on yesterday) and she feels pretty low. The initial plan for this morning if the weather was cooperating (which it was) was to walk across Hyde Park and down Constitution Hill to Buckingham Palace. Katherine opted for the Tube instead, and I can't say that I blame her. Since we were starting from Lancaster Gate, we walked over to the parks for a few minutes, but the Italian Gardens are hidden by hoardings. In fact, there are hoardings up all over London, as well as odd little pedestrian diversions that create single-file traffic on the busy sidewalks. It's chaotic, but the city is prettying itself up for the 2012 Olympics next year. There are also all sorts of Tube closures, but that hasn't affected us yet (knock wood).
So we Tubed to Green Park and walked down right in front of Buckingham Palace and around to the visitors' entrance for the Summer Opening of the State Rooms. This is one thing that I've never had the opportunity to do before, as I'm usually here when the State Rooms either aren't yet open or have just closed. I pretty
much don't care if we don't get to do anything else while we're here; seeing Buckingham Palace was my “thing” for this visit.
We were given audio guides – which actually worked! – and a route through the State Rooms from which it was not possible to deviate. I've been through palaces before, but there's a little thrill in going through a working palace where the (figure)head of state actually lives. You know, like maybe you
could accidentally go through an unmarked door and surprise the Queen in her curlers with a cup of tea and doing a crossword. Or maybe a corgi would come waddling through the crowd. Unfortunately, that didn't happen. The closest we got to seeing royalty was the wonderful (and in some cases quite old) portraits on the walls and the marble busts. It was exciting to see in person, for example, the beautiful full-length portrait of Queen Alexandra that I've seen many times in books. And all the gilt and intricate ceilings and drop-dead gorgeous chandeliers!
We saw the Throne Room, which was clearly thought about to the minutest detail by Nash; the thrones themselves aren't as grand as you'd expect. The Ballroom, a lovely big space, at the moment is displaying the Duchess of Cambridge's wedding dress and veil, as well as her shoes, bouquet and specially made earrings. The dress is a work of art, and Kate is so tiny! The designer, Sarah Burton, even put in a little padding at the hips to give Kate a curvier figure. Her skirt and train wouldn't have fallen as beautifully without it. The wedding cake is on display in the next room and, again, the intricacy and the attention to detail and talent that went into it is amazing.
There was also a temporary display of some of the royal family's collection of Faberge, including a few eggs.
The tour ended in the garden, and there's a marquee set up with a small cafe. We sat and had tea and hot chocolate for a bit, then hit the gift shop (spent too much money), and eventually walked through the gardens to the exit. We saw some interesting black birds with white bills and longish legs that we couldn't identify, as well as a crane standing in the pond (or maybe it was a heron; I am ornithologically challenged).
We walked over to Piccadilly and stopped at a Pret a Manger (can't do the accents) to get some lunch. There was no place to sit inside, so we took everything over to Green Park and sat in some deck chairs. It supposedly costs a pound and a half to use a deck chair, but we couldn't figure out where to buy the tickets, and no one came around to collect money while we were sitting there eating. Maybe they're free on Sundays. The park was bustling with lots of families having a day out and plenty of pigeons.
We continued down Piccadilly, stopping to look in the windows at Fortnum & Mason, and went into Hatchards. I tried to be as quick as I could with my shopping list, but Michelle and Katherine got tired of waiting and went to a nearby Starbucks for a cup of tea. I joined them after a bit and got an iced chai, which tasted awfully good. Katherine, who had taken a Sudafed and who looked like she was about to drop, decided to opt out of the rest of the plan for the day and go back to the hotel and have a nap. I hope she feels better in the morning. I don't mind so much since I've seen before all the stuff we were going to see today, but I hope Katherine and Michelle don't regret spending the extra time and money to come to London. Pretty much all they've seen so far is Soho, which is unattractive, and Buckingham Palace.
Anyway, they decided that they could easily get themselves back to the hotel on the Tube, so after visiting an ATM in Piccadilly Circus, they went down to get the Bakerloo Line back to Paddington. I went back toward Soho because I wanted to go to HMV. Got the new Kaiser Chiefs album and one by Alfie Boe, and then came back to the hotel. We don't leave till the day after tomorrow, but I feel like I should really start the packing process. But I'm feeling lazy and am trying to ignore my suitcase, which has a disapproving look on its face.
Katherine called around 6:30. She had taken a nap and was interested in dinner. Rather than attempt to really go anywhere, we just walked up London Street by our hotel and ended up at the London Street Brasserie in Hotel Indigo. I had tagliatelli; it was good, but I seem to have lost the knack of twirling long noodles around my fork. Must practice!
I'm back in my room now and have decided the packing thing must happen now ... right after I watch some TV, read a little in my London guidebook and check my e-mails. With a little bit of luck, it'll be too late then to play suitcase Tetris.
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JK
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Poor Katherine. I know how she feels! :(But if there's something to see...