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Published: November 2nd 2007
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A hive of activity
Plymouth Harbour. It's the perfect place for a naval harbour - naturally defended by reefs and encircling peninsulas, and with an excellent vantage point for the town on the high ground above. Arriving in Plymouth still dreaming of castles and wild Cornish coastlands, I found a complete contrast in the orderly naval town. It has been an important base of the British Navy through all its major naval battles, from the attacks of the Armada and Napolean to the wars of the twentieth century. Unsuprisingly, then, my first view of the harbour encompassed small water craft of all varieties with a backdrop of enormous grey battleships. Birds and helicopters whirled overhead.
I walked along the high esplanade known as the Hoe, admiring the magnificent views of the harbour. This broad swathe of city parkland was the site of Sir Francis Drake's famous game of bowls in the face of the approaching Armada, and has always been the fashionable place for the wealthy to promenade. It is cluttered with monuments and memorials, including several war memorials and a fine statue of Sir Francis himself.
The end of the Hoe is blocked by the high curtain wall of the Royal Citadel, and narrow streets twist around the castle to the Barbican, the only area of the old town to have survived the bombing attacks in World War II. The Tudor streets are cobbled
Smeaton's famous lighthouse
Originally an 18th century warning light out on the reef, a more modern light replaced it, and the much-loved Plymouth icon was transported and rebuilt as a monument on the Hoe. and the cramped houses lean over in a satisfyingly claustrophobic fashion. Down by the water, the famous Mayflower steps are preserved, the very steps where the Pilgrim Fathers boarded ship for America. Nearby are a whole variety of plaques commemorating the port's history as an embarkation point for explorers and the founders of British colonies.
Wending my way back thorugh the wide streets of the modern town, I spent my evening at the hostel (on the free wireless, yay!) making plans for the next day: I was determined to see Dartmoor somehow. The cross-moor bus service had switched to winter service only the week before, and runs only on Sundays, so I organised my own tour. If I couldn't get onto the moor itself, I would bus a circuit around it, running through the little gateway towns which cluster on the farmland fringes.
I did get some wonderful views of craggy peaks and even castle towers from the buses, and on the basis of these glimpses I will be returning in the future, to spend time thoroughly exploring the moor. In Okehampton I had a bus change, and enquired about walks in the vicinity, but finding the castle
And our fate was sealed
Plaque commemorating the settlement of New Zealand, Plymouth docks. closed and the other walks a little uninteresting (they didn't go up onto the moor itself) I continued on to Exeter, reclining comfortably in the sunlight and admiring the waving corn in the fields leading up to the moor.
My early afternoon arrival in Exeter meant I had time to explore the town. I walked along the quay, built when the river was widened and a canal built, allowing wool exporters to avoid the long and costly overland haulage. The city walls, a patchwork of stone modified every century since first built by the Romans, dip down almost to the river, and I follwed a portion of them up to the Cathedral.
Exeter Cathedral Green is absolutely beautiful, clusters of old fashioned shops and houses around two sides of the perfectly green grass, facing in to the Cathedral and church buildings. Unfortuntely the effect was spoiled by Exeter's litter problem. The entire area was papered with lunchwrappers and dotted with drinks containers - it was quite disgusting.
The Cathedral has a beautiful frontage of saints and biblical figures, but they are very badly eroded. Chicken wire covers the upper firgures, presumably to keep the pidgeons from nesting
Exeter Cathedral
Solid and faithful looking, the Cathedral sits on the south side of the picturesque village green. Unfortunately the carpet of litter detracted somewhat from spot's beauty. in them and damaging them further - but also possibly to keep bits from falling down... The ubiquitous scaffolding shrouded a large portion of the stonework towards the rear of the building, so restoration is in progress. I hope they can conserve the freize in some way and do not merely replace it.
Exeter is a strange city to wander around - I couldn't quite
get it, if that makes any sort of sense at all. Talking to one of my roommates at the hostel that evening I found she was of the same opinion, but neither of us could put the feeling into words. One good thing going for it is that it is a very easy city to get around on foot, and following your nose you will discover a number of unexpected treasures - a lot of little old buildings, and a good sprinkling of modern sculptures are dotted around town. Some are even combined, in the case of the old almshouses, which have been excavated and the archaelogical finds are displayed in shaped perspex among the ruins.
I slept well that evening, excited about my next stop - Bath! The town built on the
First views of the howling moors
The edge of Dartmoor, from the edge nearest Plymouth. Farmland leads right up to the edges of the moor. only hot springs in Britain, a town which Jane Austen lived in and sent her characters to! I was ready move north, although a little sorry to be leaving Devon without having had a Devonshire tea. I wanted to, but to be honest I just couldn't face it after the Cornish Cream tea three days earlier. I think it will be some time before I can eat another scone.
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