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Published: October 22nd 2017
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spheres
Cool modern art on every roundabout Geo: 46.1028, 7.07245
(Erin here.) Well the rain finally caught up to us, or we caught up to it...but either way, when we awoke this morning, the mountaintops had been cropped by clouds and for all we knew, we could have been in western Washington. The cool night air had made for a restful night's sleep at our B & B, however. We breakfasted on cold cereal and fresh bread in the dining room with a young British girl named Kate who is tackling the Haute Route alone. We were all impressed with her commitment to the trail and the journey, for when we parted ways after breakfast, Kate donned her rain gear and headed up the mountain toward the Cabane du Mont Fort (which we saw by gondola yesterday), while we boarded a bus for Martigny. Due to the deluge on the valley floor, not to mention threats of thunderstorms and snow toward the summit, we opted to spend a day exploring a new town, soaking up some quintessential sights and tastes of Switzerland.
The four of us were quite a sight walking through the downpour to the bus station this morning! I wish I could acces my photo for you,
Art museum
Signs representing some of the artists inside the museum but I'm sure you can imagine: four Americans decked out in rain pants, four rain coats of black, orange, purple, and green, each of us carrying backpacks with pack covers in blue, green and black. At the laughable sight, Aaron and Mary dubbed us the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles for the shell-like bulges on our backs, sure to protect us against any attackers.
The original plan for today had been to press on with the Haute route, possibly starting on the mountain route section (three days away from towns, sleeping in mountain cabanes or huts), but with the dire--even dangerous--weather conditions, we decided to stick to low ground. We kept seeing advertisements for the Renoir exhibit in Martigny, which seemed reason enough to head in that direction.
Martigny's cobblestone streets, ancient Roman amphitheatre, and its medieval castle standing sentinel on a nearby bluff instantly sent us back in time. Yet this old infrastructure juxtaposed with the modern art throughout the city, from the bronze spheres to the giant woman emerging from a recumbent tree trunk, gave us something new to see at every turn. And of course, what we have come to expect from every Swiss village: red geraniums dripping from
Batiaz castle overlooking Martigny
We tried in vain for the trail to get to the castle balconies and public fountains the size of bath tubs.
We made our way to the Renoir exhibit and traded our rain gear for entrance tickets. Something about the red walls inside the museum and warm lighting instantly calmed my mind. I loved viewing his landscapes and flowers and portraits of plump nude ladies, many of which are on loan from the Orsay Museum in Paris. Such an unforseen treat to get to see the realism of Renoir's work while on a hiking trip.
Later we lunched at a creperie where you assemble your own ingredients (ham, spinach, gruyere, steamed peppers) and the cook prepares the crepe. Delicious comfort food for a chilly day! We enjoyed the rest of the sensations of the afternoon, from the ringing of the church bells in the bell tower, to the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre slick with rainwater. There was even a golden retriever guarding her home courtyard that made me miss Kaia so much! I was sure this dog too was more bark than bite. Tonight, I sign off after watching Germany score their fifth consecutive goal against Brazil in the Wold Cup semifinal game. The men smoking pot and drinking beer in the bar
Roman amphitheatre
Still a venue for modern shows downstairs erupt with every goal. Might be a rambunctious night on the street!
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mike pepper
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i guess the rain was inevitable, given the forecast. but, as usual you have made the best of it, plus an added bonus of the Renoir exhibit! on loan from Paris - we have a connection as it's likely the same work we saw during our visit to
the Mus?e d'Orsa. looks like a wonderful time in Switzerland!! thanks again for sharing your wonderful writing and pics. here's hoping for some sun tomorrow! love, dad