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Published: March 29th 2009
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Sunday, March 22: Fribourg - Romon
This was my first day on the official camino. After the near disaster with the stamp to collect in the Fribourg Cathedral (the ink was dry) I manage to collect one stamp on the way in small chapel.
It was a rather long section of about 30 km but every cm of it worthwile as the way leads along a wonderful countryside over hills and rivers along rivers and from one small but charming chapel to the next. And above all, the weather was wonderfully sunny and reasonably warm.
About an hour before I reached Romont I was caught by a couple who were eating biscuits while they were walking. They offered me one, I smiled and declined, telling them that I'd rather have about 2 litres of coke. They laughed and slowed down their pace to mine (they had much small and lighter backpacks) and we spent the rest of the trip together. They were a couple from a village near Fribourg who spend their weekends with day trips like this one when their 2 kids can can be looked after by the grand parents.
We kept talking until the bottom of Romont.
There they told me they would take the train back to Fribourg and wished me good luck, especially for the walk up to Romont. Which I need as the medeval part of the city is on a steep hill which nearly kills you after a 6 hours walk. However, it's worthwile as it breathes that very special atmosphere of ancient stone houses that surround a great church and a great castle.
I found a good hotel (ok, it was the only one that was open on Sundays) and tried to find something to eat. The first try was the Chinese restaurant. I entered and was brought to a table, then everybody disappeared only to reappear after I was leaving after ten minutes. Everybody wished me a very nice evening. So, if you ever happen to go to Romont (and I recommend you do) don't go to the Chinese restaurant unless you tend to enjoy being humiliated. The second try was a place called "Aux 13 Cantons" and that one was just great, good food, very friendly service and reasonable prices.
Monday, March 23: Romont - Moudon
This was a rather short section which first leads from Romont
down the plane (about 400m above see level) the up to a hill of about 800m from which you have a fantastic panorama view. It's called 4 winds mount which is exactly what it is, a severe testing place for every kind of hairspray...
The way then leads back down to 400m and stays there, following 2 rivers which made me feel very much at ease. I made a stop where the first smaller rivers flows into the second bigger one. Although it was a bit cold because of the wind it was a very romantic place and I stayed there for half an hour, enjoying my water and balisto bars.
The remain way to Moudon was a very quick one. Now, as the weather seemed to become worse by the minute with the wind increasing I decided to skip the way from Moudon to Lausanne. This would be a long walk through forests which seemed a bit dangerous to me with this increasing wind (I have seen the effects of the last wind storm in all the days before) so I took the next train to Lausanne, could rent an individual room in the Youth Hostel and went to
have a look at the city. Unfortunately, most of the highlights as the cathedral were already closed for the day (yes, I missed another stamp) so I went to have dinner. I found a restaurant which served Bangladeshi plates, exotic enough for me to try it and it was absolutely worth while.
Tuesday, March 24,: Lausanne - Rolle
What a wonderful section that was! Most of the way leads along the Lake Geneva, one passes lots of small charming beaches and beautiful Lake Walks such as the one in Morges. The weather was partly cloudy with light snowfall from time to time but that gave the lake a very mystic and dramatic touch. After a place called St. Prex the way leaves the lake to rise up to a forest just to follow the River Aubonne. Spectacular. The way then leads down to the lake to a wonderful beach where I paused in spite of the cold wind for about 20 minutes, then I leads up again through two wonderful villages to lead down again to Rolle where a found a nice hotel to spend the night.
Just outside of the Youth Hostel in Lausanne an elderly
lady pointed her finger at me and asked me: "Etes-vous un pèlerin?" (Are you a pilgrim?) I was tented to answer: "Non, je suis une pèlerine!" (unfortunately, the pun is only for German tongues...) but I confirmed that I was a pilgrim and there was just another person who said that she would have loved to do the same but would be too old and sick now for this. Gives you reason to think, doesn't it?
Wednesday, March 25: Rolle - Coppet
This was the harshest section so far. Most of the way leads along roads with quite a lot of traffic, that means that there is car every 5 second on average. In addition to that the weather was rather cold, very windy with rain showers evey now and then, so this was a day I clearly did not enjoy.
It had its highlights all the same. Just before a village called Dully (it wasn't as dull as the name suggests) I met another elderly lady, a very elegant one with impressively deep blue eyes. Like a mountain lake with now bottom. She looked at me and said: "So you're on your way to Santiago. Let
me invite you to a coffee as I do that with every pilgrim I meet." I gladly accepted so we drank coffee and talked for a while and left again wishing each other a good rest of the life. It warmed my heart and as this was just after I had walked for about an hour it brought me through an otherwise rather harsh day.
The other highlight was the hotel I found in Coppet. Expensive but a wonderful room with dark wood furniture (don't ask me which kind of wood as I have no clue about these things) - and it had a bath tub which was just what I needed after that cold day.
Tuesday, March 26: Coppet - Geneva
A rather short section, again the way follows mainly roads with quite a lot of traffic. However, the villages are charming, culminating in a panoramic spot in Chambésy where I had a half hour break.
Shortly after Chambésy the way enters Geneva on the main road with so much traffic that I thought about taking the bus to the center, but before I could decide on doing that the way turned left down the Lake
Promenade that leads right to the train station and that walk is just plain wonderful. I found a little bench placed in benign sunshine and offered myself another half hour break before I walked into Geneva on the Promenade, feeling a bit like a Hollywood diva. That feeling dissipated quickly when I had to look for a hotel. I finally found one near the train station. Nice but too expensive.
From there shower, a first walk through the town, a very nice white wine to start the stay in Geneva, a good dinner and sleep.
Friday 27 to Sunday 29: Geneva
It's a bit like home coming as I had studied in Geneva in the 80ies. So I have visited places of then became nostalgic and planned to move on on Sunday.
On Saturday the weather turned nasty (wind, rain, cold) and I got the blues. Isn't Geneva the place where my journey takes a new dimension. So far I have remained in good old Switzerland but now the Terra Incognita starts. It's also here that I will cancel my yearly train subscription which means that it will become much more difficult to go back home to
my parents. Thus, the journey becomes much more final. That made me afraid so I decided to stay in Geneva one more day.
So here I am, on this gray Sunday afternoon, in an Internet café, mentally preparing for The Big Step Out Of Switzerland tomorrow...
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