Snow and Sauna Daze


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Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Åre
January 4th 2009
Published: April 5th 2009
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Imagine a small Swedish village, complete with gorgeous cabins spreading up the hillside, snow-covered trees in every direction, a huge mountain backdrop on one side, an enormous frozen lake on the other. This is Åre. It was an absolute joy to return here again. Stepping off the train, the crisp, mountain air instantly made every minute of the six hour journey worth it. One year on since our last visit, Adam and I were here again with Luke and Maria, now with little Liam in tow! But even better, this year Kyrie, Robert and Sheryle were all here too for the last leg of family time before the Odell family once again bid each other farewell and headed off to different corners of the globe. Knowing this week would be the last time we'd have all together for awhile, we were determined to make the most of every minute.

Luke and Maria had organised accommodation again this year and they did a wonderful job finding a three bedroom cabin located quite high up the hillside with a balcony facing out over the gorgeous lake. The cabin was complete with our own pine sauna to everyone’s delight. We wasted no time in trying it out-night one the boys had it cranked up to 45 degrees and so us five kids sat and sweated it out. Historically, I've not been a fan of saunas-typically associating them with the type you find in your local gym, inhabited by smelly, sweaty strangers. But being in a small pine wood sauna with family and the pine wood smell permeating every crevice completely won me over. The sauna became the place to be every evening after a day out in the cold and served as the venue for some unique bonding time together as we chatted away whilst trying to stick out the temperature for just one more minute...

Beyond the sauna, the big focus of the week was on snow fun. This was Kyrie's first time skiing and it certainly got off to an unforgettable start. After getting advice from the local ski-hire about options for lessons, Robert booked Kyrie in for a one-to-one hour-long lesson on day one. When booking the lesson, the guy advised us the easiest way to reach the learning area was to get on the chair lift. Once at the top, we were assured there was transport to where lessons were held. Now Maria and I, having been skiing before, perhaps should have greeted such advice with scepticism. But as it came from the guy selling the lessons, we thought he probably knew what he was talking about and though it seemed slightly strange, it must be the way to go. And so we helped Kyrie get her skis on for the first time and made our way towards the crowd waiting to get on the chair lift. There were such a huge amount of people lined up that we unfortunately ended up queuing for the line bound for the seated chair lift, rather than the option for a cable car which would have been more opportune. It was only as we waited for the chair lift to arrive that we started to see flaws in the advice we'd relied upon. As we waited, one minute Kyrie was standing in between Maria and I, the next she was sliding past saying 'help me' as she ploughed forward into the back of a very tall gentleman in front. In retrospect, I can't help but laugh as I recall this incident, but at the time, I remember feeling so incredibly sorry for Kyrie who must have been absolutely terrified standing there amongst the crowd, waiting to get on a chair lift that she had no idea how she was going to get off. She held up pretty well though and managed to make it through the barriers and get seated on the chair lift without further incident. As we travelled further toward the point to disembark, Kyrie grew increasingly scared. We decided the best strategy would be for Kyrie to simply let the lift push her down the ramp as it pulls away and let her fall then to stop herself.

As scary as that must have seemed, Kyrie did just that, and did it beautifully too-she even managed to fall out of the way of other skiers getting off the lift. Getting up again was a bit of a struggle but with Maria and me on one side each, we managed it and at last we were off. We'd made it! Or so we thought. A lump formed in the pit of my stomach as we realised there wasn't 'transport' to take us onward to the ski school, but rather a 'transporter', an easy run designed for crossing between ski areas when up on the mountain. This might have been fine had Kyrie skied for even 20 minutes or so on a learning slope before arriving at this point. But as it would soon become clear, this transporter wasn't going to be an easy challenge. It stated off with a reasonably sized hill to give you some speed before traversing a fairly narrow path across the mountain-with a drop to one side. It was good 500 metres in length too-no easy feat for a first time skier who had not yet learnt the basics of starting or stopping.

Kyrie to her credit approached it gallantly though. But after short bits of advice being given by Maria and I and a few stumbles in quick succession, it seemed best that Kyrie simply walk the length of the transporter rather than risk potential injury. So I joined a very upset and embarrassed Kyrie strolling down the mountain while a somewhat angry Maria skied ahead to complain about the poor advice we'd been given. When we eventually arrived at the ski school, Kyrie was met by a wholly apologetic ski instructor who offered her an additional lesson for free. As it turned out, there was actually a bus that led directly from the bus stop nearest our cabin up to the ski lesson area. How infuriating!

Fortunately, the rest of Kyrie's skiing time could only get better from this point and after her lesson that first day, she picked it up pretty quickly and was away in no time. Maria too has mastered the skiing art and shows no fear speeding down the mountainside. As for me, I'm sure I made next to no progress in my skiing prowess over my four skiing days during this trip. Balance in motion and speed are not too traits that sit well with me. This coupled with my acute consciousness of the possible dangers associated with this sport (which I blame completely on my carer in health!) do not make for a confident skier who can sail down the mountain throwing caution to the wind. If only I could! But nonetheless, while I ski so slowly it drives Adam mad, I do enjoy being up on the mountain and breathing in the crisp air and taking in the views.

Kyrie wasn't the only one learning the joys of snow and speed for the first time. Little Liam was given his first play time in a sled during this trip too. I can't describe how amazing it was to watch his little face change from being confused and uncertain to being excited and joyous as he began to enjoy the sensation of sledding and having his parents making silly faces as they pulled him along or ran alongside. His grunty excited giggles were adorable. He also suffered his first 'stack' on a second day sledding out with his dad and ‘Uncle Ham’. After hitting a ridge part way up the hill, Liam's little sled overturned and he had his first 'face-plant'. Uncle Ham reported he seemed pretty surprised as he tasted snow for the first time, whilst his dad, having made certain he was uninjured, vowed not to tell his mum about this little misdemeanour! Onlookers apparently found the whole thing quite amusing too.

Adam and Luke were keen to get as much boarding action as they could and bought seven day passes to ensure maximum opportunity to get to the very top of the mountain on a clear day. The peak isn't often open as the weather needs to be just about perfect for the lifts to run up to the top. But this year, there was such a day...and these two crazy boys were determined to make the most of the opportunity by going off piste and almost catapulting themselves off a sheer drop! A little sheepishly, they had to find an alternate path down, walking quite a way before going down through the forest (and getting themselves stuck in knee deep snow during their off piste meanderings) and eventually finding a path back down.

Neither of the boys escaped their boarding days without injury. Day two, Adam came home sporting a very swollen and bruised ankle (for which he sought much sympathy!) Luke too had a series of 'down days' after he hurt his back in a big stack the first evening of night skiing. He walked around rather gingerly for the next few days and it was awhile before he was able to get back on the board and head out. During these early injury days, we ventured as a family to one of the other attractions in Åre-Sauna world. The ladies had booked ourselves in a for a beauty treatment at the day spa on site, whilst the boys headed to the pool and saunas. While Liam had a swim, and the other Odell boys checked out the seven different types of saunas available, we girls were each treated to a soak in a jet-spa bath complete with lights and gorgeous aromatic oils, whilst we had a facial treatment. After this, it was off to another room to have a foot rub and finishing off with a drink in the relaxation room. I felt like the world’s most relaxed woman after our 90 minutes of blissful pampering!

The boys seemed to benefit from the sauna world experience and were out and about again in the days following. Meanwhile, Robert and Sheryle avoided any snow sports for fear their ankles and knees might not stand up to the challenges. Instead, they spent most days exploring the village, taking long walks in their snowy surroundings. Unfortunately they too didn't escape injury from the snow time with Sheryle having a rather nasty fall during one of their days out. More sauna time was needed to help the bruised heal up faster!

After all the snow action of each day, quieter evenings were happily spent cooking family dinners and playing with Liam. In the weeks leading up to this trip, Liam had begun to find his feet and as our time in Åre progressed, it was amazing to watch the progress he was making finding his balance and tottering further and further each day before inevitably loosing it again. At times he was more content to make sure he had a helping hand to keep him well balanced as he walked around. My favourite thing about the time we spent with him at this age was having his little hand reach out and grab mine, indicating he wanted to go exploring and needed a little help to do it. It was the most unbelievably cute gesture...darling little boy that he is.

Mid-way during the week, we heralded in the New Year with a family dinner as we counted down to the midnight hour. We all spilled onto the balcony to join the countdown and watch the fireworks when midnight arrived. It was quite a spectacular sight watching fireworks from all directions, exploding over the frozen lake or the village itself. Happiness and good health were toasted and New Year’s resolutions vowed. Little Liam slept through the whole event, oblivious to the celebrations all around.

Before we knew it, the week wound down and suddenly we were sharing our last evening all together. When you have family members living in three different countries coming together after a long time apart, it is inevitable the time together flies. For me, it passed as if in a daze...snow, saunas, family dinners, long chats, Liam playing...a happy foggy daze where time moved slowly and yet all too quickly. Our final dinner together was both happy and sad, as us kids reflected on what had been a wonderful few weeks and spoke with great hope of all being together again soon...really soon.

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