Rioja country

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Geo: 42.4307, -2.56467

Apologies for the absence of postings but after several months of sunshine the weather took a serious turn for the worse. Friday and Saturday in central Portugal were very wet and at times windy (olives falling on the caravan roof) but after four months without rain they needed it, however not when we were in town! We got out and about for provisions, that is Lidl (Portalegre) and the local Saturday market for local fruit, veg and cheese in Santo Antonio but cabin fever kicked in when conditions prevented us from exploring on foot or bike. During a few hours without rain on Sunday, David took down the awning ahead of us sadly leaving Camping Asseiceira on Monday morning. But we intend to be back to this calm, peaceful oasis in Portugal in the not too distant future to finish what we have started. For us, the country and its people has a lot of appeal.

Next morning, after hitching up in the wet, at nearby Portagem we headed for Castel de Vide which had charmed us a few days earlier, onto the Autovia network towards Guarda, then eastwards into Spain, destination Salamanca. On recommendation from an encountered camper we had booked a night at Camping Olimpia just off the main Autovia north of the city which made me think of Travel Lodge for campers. It is very simple really - just twenty grassy pitches (16.50€ per night) lining a concrete road, with access to clean showers and loos, plus the bonus of a bar/restaurant to get a respectable 3-course meal for 10€ per person. Not somewhere to spend an annual fortnight, you understand, but for a stopover en-route or to visit the city it is ideal. We shall bear it in mind for future trips.

Tuesday, we rejoined the A62/E80 which took us past the industrial zone of Valladolid, then Palencia, when the scenery became more rural and reminiscent of places we have visited in Scotland - quite beautiful, gently rolling countryside. An image which was further heightened as the light rain and mist moved in at an area where you could have been forgiven for thinking you were driving over Shap in Cumbria on the way to Gretna Green - a route we have travelled many times for holidays north of the border, mostly under the same conditions.

Our campsite destination was on the outskirts of the small town of Navarrete, near Logrono, the Rioja capital - one of our favourite wines! It is a popular stop-off for campers arriving from or destined for Bilbao, which is one and a half hours away, and after us arriving early afternoon, the pitches filled quite steadily. The site is clearly popular with the Spanish too since most of the pitches appear to be taken up with long-stay outfits, some of which have been here for some time judging by the moss and other debris, currently unoccupied, with the owners presumably coming at weekends and holidays.

After the odd glimpse of sunshine following our arrival, we had one or two showers, including a rumble of thunder, but by 10.30am this morning it was warm and sunny, far better than anything we had had in the last three days, so we decided to take advantage of the opportunity and booked a visit to the Bodega Baigorri at Samaniego, just beyond Laguardia in the heart of Rioja country.

The Bodega is located in a stunning location (the fine weather helped somewhat) at the foot of the Cantabrian Mountains in Rioja Alavesa. The centre (incorporating winery, visitor centre, shop and restaurant) is a glass box integrated into the landscape, and was purpose-built to the design of Ianki Aspiazu, for the 21st century, where gravity is essential to their unique winemaking strategy. Our knowledgeable guide, a German by the name of Mateo, explained that their 'gravity' technique involves much manual sorting/handling and gentle treatment to keep the grapes in tact for as long as possible, avoiding the use of mechanical methods or crushing in the early stages of production. They still use oak barrels for maturing so some traditions are still upheld.

As part of our experience, we had booked for the taster menu lunch, accompanied by a selection of four of the wines to compliment the different courses. The restaurant is located on the sixth floor which is accessed via the barrel ageing area, giving stunning views over the vineyards and the landscape beyond. After an excellent selection of dishes including salmon with trout caviar, black pudding coated in nuts, bean casserole. pork stewed in Rioja (what else), finishing with a dessert concoction including creme caramel, we visited the shop to buy some drinkable souvenirs to savour on our return back home.

After the past few days I was beginning to think we had seen the last opportunity for memorable moments, but today has thrown up yet another unexpected surprise.

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