A seafood platter to remember and a cold wet journey to the NW tip of Spain

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Last night we ate one of the best meals we have ever eaten, and we have eaten in some top-rate restaurants over the years. It was also incredibly cheap at just 24 euros per head. All week we had been watching the fishing boats come in to Muros harbour and watched lobster pots being hauled up from the bay, so we decided that on our last night in Muros we simply had to have a seafood platter.

The restaurant at Camping A¨Vouga (more of a restaurant with a campsite rather than a campsite with a restaurant) is locally acclaimed for its “speciality menu”, which starts with a seafood platter, continues with a meat or fish platter, then a dessert platter, bread, coffee, liqueurs, wine all included (we had two beers and two large gin and tonics instead of the wine). All for 48 euros! We would have happily paid 48 euros just for the seafood platter! We had scallops, oysters, squid, octopus, common prawns, red prawns, crab, lobster, razor clams, cockles and mussels. Our second course, served with salad and potatoes was a meat platter: steak so tender that it melted in the mouth, lomo (pork loin), pancheta, chorizo, lamb chops and some bird´s legs which we think were ptarmigan (not sure but delicious anyway). The third platter was two custard-filled crepes soaked in honey, cheese in honey and little pots of home-made yoghurt and crème caramel. Mutley and Bella slept under the table for the two and a half hours it took us to eat this feast. A good night to end our week in Muros. It was a great campsite in a beautiful location and only 98 euros camp fees for the week. Excellent value!

We left Muros at 11.30 a.m. this morning to drive up to our current location, campsite number five, on the north western tip of Spain, where the Atlantic joins the Bay of Biscay, north of A´Coruña at Valdoviño. 166 kilometres, took about two and a half hours, with one stop. It was a rotten journey, drizzle and grey skies all the way. Still, we must not complain since Galicia hasn´t had bad weather over the last week when the rest of Spain has suffered a freak cold spell, a Gota Fria, with torrential rain on the costas and snow across the whole centre of the country!

We phoned ahead to Camping Valdoviño because in our ACSI guidebook it said “only one dog allowed in low season” and we have two dogs. The owner immediately said “Dos perros! No hay problema! El mismo precio, 16 euros.” So, we struck lucky again, a good campsite for 16 euros per night, dogs included and free WIFI.

Valdoviño is located beside a huge sandy bay with big Atlantic rollers roaring in to land (this is a popular surfing spot). We went for a walk, despite the drizzle and cold, along the sand dunes to a salt water lagoon. By the time we got back the sun had come out and the evening ended dry and bright. The forecast is good for tomorrow. We shall probably stay here until Sunday. This is quite a remote part of Galicia and not as pretty or as dramatic as further south where we were before, but good for walking along the coastline. This will keep us happy for a few days!

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Blogs with food photos always grab my attention
This is a beauty. May have to head to Spain.