Into the Land of the Bulls


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January 27th 2006
Published: January 28th 2006
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Iain and Bec in SegoviaIain and Bec in SegoviaIain and Bec in Segovia

Panoramic view of the snowcapped mountains and cathedral in Segovia from the Alcazabar.
Hola amigos

We’re now well into the Spanish leg of our voyage. Our knowledge of the Spanish language has vastly improved beyond “hola”. We can now confidently buy tickets, book accommodation and ask for toilets. However, food still provides us with challenges everyday (we have learnt not to order the toro de rabo - bulls tails). Although challenging - we have managed to order many a fine meal, tried some local specialties and explored some good (and bad) tapas bars.

Spain has continually astounded us with its art, architecture and history. It has been fantastic to discover and learn about places and buildings, some of which date from over a thousand years before New Zealand was even a country. We’ve been following the lineage of Spanish Royalty (the most famous being the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand V and Isabella). And we’ve been amused by various names bestowed on the kings such as Alfonso the Warlike (who the people were suspicious of), Pedro the Cruel (as called by the clergy - the people knew him as Pedro the Righteous). There was also some dude called someone the Lesser (sucks to be him).

Having been inspired by this name-calling, I’m still
Bec and the Walls of AvilaBec and the Walls of AvilaBec and the Walls of Avila

Bec stands on a snowy rock in front of the walled city of Avila.
deciding if I shall henceforth be known as Rebecca the Adventurer, Rebecca the Navigator, Rebecca the Great or Iain has suggested Rebecca the Shorter. I shall name Iain “Iain the tight-ass with the purse strings who won’t let me spend money on anything fun”.

Highlights in brief.
Madrid was really all about the museums. The famous Prado lived up to its reputation and we also explored the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (don’t ask me to pronounce that). Madrid was where Iain’s art education began. He has already figured out the period where art went horribly wrong (namely the 20th century). These museums have inspired much debate on artistic philosophy and the age old questions of “what makes art art?” and why is that painting in a gallery and that one in a café?” have been well pondered.

Two of our best meals came from Madrid. Roast suckling pig and lamb were served at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world (according to the Guinness Book of Records) and then thanks to the recommendation from our Lonely Planet Bible we went to “the oh so stylish and oh so cheap” Glorias de Montera. As well as a great meal I also
Iain with HuevosIain with HuevosIain with Huevos

Iain in Toledo with a dish called ¨Sarten Patatas¨, made with sausage, eggs and potatoes. One of our favourites.
truly discovered how good the cheap plonk is (half a bottle of red wine for NZ $3). Mmmmm

Day tips from Madrid. Out of Madrid we did day trips to Segovia, Avilla and Toledo. I shouldn’t really lump then into one paragraph like this as they each had their own distinct character and history. But basically these were three great old cities with wonderful cathedrals, alcazabars (Muslim castles), old city walls, towers and stunning panoramic views of snow capped mountains. Segovia was also the home of a very well preserved Roman aqueduct. Avilla (a personal favourite city of mine) was where Saint Teresa was from. So we explored her church, and museum dedicated to all things Teresa, including her not so well preserved ring finger (bit on the grotty side).

After Madrid it was time for us to head south in search of warmer weather and sea. These tales will be told in our next installation.

Adios amigos
Becs and Iain


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Roman AqueductRoman Aqueduct
Roman Aqueduct

Large section of an intact Roman aqueduct in Segovia.
Cathedral in SegoviaCathedral in Segovia
Cathedral in Segovia

Gothic Spires of the Segovian Cathedral.


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