The Bullfight in Burgos - July 2


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Europe » Spain » Castile & León » Burgos
July 6th 2013
Published: July 6th 2013
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I am stepping back a few days. I realized on the road that I had left off Burgos. Probably because it was not a very good memory. The day was great that day until we got to Burgos that a lot of things went wrong. That day I traveled with 3 of my young friends: HeeHoon a young Korean man - I think 24. We have traveled a lot together. Also Rim (pronounced like Reem, which is what I have called her earlier - her actually name is Hyerim. She and HeeHoon met each other on the way - they don't know each other from Korea. Lastly is my friend Jeroen from Holland. Jeroen literally walked out his door at home and began walking the way! He is an amazing young man. He took 2 days off back on the thrid as his girlfriend and her family came to see him, so he is now at least 2 days behind us. He has been walking about 90 days - incredible!

So I really dislike Burgos for a number of reasons. Our walk was good until we got there. Then the 4 of us proceeded to get lost in Burgo for almost two hours. By then we were hot and tired and grouchy, so that was just the start. After we had almost walked out of the city we found we had to retrace our steps. Luckily the albergue municipal was not full and we did get beds. Walking into town we saw fliers about a bullfight that night and decided we should go. So we got food and the each went our own ways for a bit before meeting at the albergue to get a cab to the bullring. NO WAY WE WERE WALKING BACK 4KM TO THE BULLRING AFTER THE DAY WE HAD!

Burgos is a big city with a big honking cathedral in it. First I don't like big cities too much and this one was much too touristy for my liking. We had a decent meal, but it was overpriced by our standards. Jeroen opted to go in the cathedral. That day it was actually free to enter. That was what had turned me off in Barcelona - having to pay to go in the cathedrals. I have found that I love the beautiful centuries old churches in the small towns so I had no interest.

Time to head to the bullfight - we (the 4 of us) were excited. A group of guys - mostly from the US whom I cross paths with everyfew days - heard us and also got a cab and went. We were lucky enough to sit next to a man who spoke English and explained much about bullfighting to us - well mostly to Jeroen as he was interested and sitting next to him. My understanding was that this was kinda a minor league bullfight - so not the primo bullfighters or bulls. Yet the arena was pretty full. I noticed whole families were there - little kids up to grandparents. Lots of making merry and full bands playing in every section.

There is a lot of pomp and ceremony and bravado and showing off that goes into a bullfight. But when it boils down to it it is a CRUEL and INHUMANE sport! They taunt and torture those bulls - with each one I prayed they would hurry up and just kill it. Early iin the bullfight when they are wearing the bulls out horses come out and at one point they lure the bull to one of them and the rider actually lances the bull. We witnessed a bull go after one of the horses. Now mind you these horses are well armoured, but can't feel good having this huge bull ramming you. During one round the horse actually went down and I thought the bull had gone thru the armour and killed it. Imagine my horror! But no - the horses are so weighed down with the armour that they cannot move when tipped over. Once the 5-10 men got the horse up it was okay. OMG it was awful!

I am going to try to attach the video of one of the rounds - their are 6 rounds. Each of the 3 matadors gets 2 bulls. I recommend that animal lovers and those weak of heart not watch it if it downloads. We - my friends and I - we appalled and disgusted. Jeroen left the bullfight despisng all Spaniards for what he saw. He was angry for 2 days. I have added a new prayer to my walk on the Camino - that one day they ban bullfighting in Spain. I understand the culture of it - also seeing those little children there explains why they are so accepting of it - they are enculturated early. Yet it is crual and inhumane and it is time it ends! So that is another reason I did not like Burgos.

There of course was lots of parties and parades after. We had a tough time getting a cab and later I had a tough time getting to sleep. The parties lasted all night and believe me the parties were loud! I was so ready to get out of that town!

My US friends I mentioned above got caught up in the festivities and became part of the parades. They had a great after party, but missed the curfew for the albergue and were locked out. I don't think they cared though.

There were other little things that went wrong and then the heat just makes you cranky. Needless to say Burgos is not on my list to return to.

Sadly it won't let me add the video. I will try to put it on Facebook. Maybe it is just as well I can't add it.

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