Day 13-17: God Forbid You're Wrong...

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God forbid you're wrong...

As this is a religious pilgrimage, I have been learning a lot about religion in general and the people that practice different sects. Sara and I are always discussing religion as we have very different beliefs. I love that she is so open about it and is so willing to educate me on different Christian beliefs within her church. She also is very good about answering my questions. I ask her things that I would never feel comfortable asking anyone else because the things I like to ask sometimes cannot be sugar-coated and may come across as insulting. However, Sara is very open minded and likes discussing such things. We both make jokes about religion quietly to one another on a daily basis, very light heartedly of course.

I have met way more athiests than I thought I would on the Camino and have found this topic extremely interesting to discuss with people. Being someone who refuses to identify with any specific religious sect, I thought that I would feel out of place on the Camino at times. To tell the truth, only a couple of times I felt a little uncomfortable. During different religious ceremonies or services I felt a little out of place because I do not feel comfortable singing hymns or reading passages from the Bible. However, no single person on the Camino has made me feel uncomfortable about my beliefs or depending how you would look at it, my lack of beliefs.

It is a fun but touchy subject discussing religion with strangers from different cultures. I love learning about people's beliefs and talking about religion openly makes me more and more open minded. Also, it has made me more strong in my own beliefs. I know what I think is right and what I think is wrong and being on the Camino has just confirmed it. I have also realized that it doesn't matter if others have different beliefs; everyone needs to believe in something and who are any of us to tell one another that it isn't right? I find it fascinating! I was not expecting to come on a religious journey to change my beliefs or to look for a revelation to change the way I think. I am very comfortable with what I think and who I am. Rather, I like to think I came on the Camino to learn...





April 13: Azofra to Grañón

Journal Entry--------------------

Friday April 13th, 2012

It's funny because I am tempted to just write, "Today I walked." I have noticed that I am taking less pictures and am writing less in my journal entries.

Today Molly, Sara and I left Azofra this morning. The albergue that we stayed in last night was so nice because there are only two beds in each little room! I'll have to remember this place for when I convince Lee to come walk the Camino with me next time...

It was so cold and rainy again today but I was feeling good. I have so many blisters on my right foot and none of my dumb foot-- the left one. It's so odd. So anyway, I have been wearing my light-weight hiking sneakers instead of my boots. It stinks though because now I have to carry the heavy boots. Tomorrow I think I will try to wear them again and hopefully they won't kill my ankles... again.

It is nice to have friends to walk with but I also do really enjoy my alone time. I love the quiet. I thought that I would be listening to my ipod the whole time but I have found that the sounds of the surrounding nature are way better than any music. I also never wear my sunglasses because the views are so beautiful and I do not want to distort them in any way.

When we stumbled into Grañón some 22km after Azofra it started to hail. My body also was aching and I felt a new blister forming. With this being said, I decided to stay. Molly and Sara also decided to stay. When we first read about the only albergue in Grañón having people sleep on mats on the ground we thought, "Oh hell no!" BUT we decided to give it a go and I am so happy that we did. This hospitale never turns anyone away. It is cozy and is run by volunteers. There is no set cost to stay or for the shared dinner-- you give a donation as you please.

We had the shared dinner with all of the other pilgrims in which everyone helped make the meal, setup and cleanup. There was an older Spanish man who loved attention and sang loudly all of the time. He loved Molly becuase she speaks perfect Spanish. The atmosphere here is out of this world! It is truly an amazing and special place.

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Looking back on my Camino, Grañón was one of my favorite places to sleep, if not my favorite. The atmosphere was absolutely amazing and the hosts were so welcoming. If, or excuse me, when I walk the Camino again I am going to make a point to stay in Grañón again. I hope that someone that is going to walk the Camino reads this and also makes a point to stay there. Do not be put off because you sleep on mats on the floor. It really isn't that bad, and it is totally worth it for the experience.





April 14: Grañón to Tosantos

Along the Camino there are certain albergues that are considered hospitales. This means that they are places for pilgrims to sleep that run off of donations from the pilgrims and are run by volunteers. This idea is so neat because it is not something that would work in every situation. I have thought often about how the Camino is such a special place because people seem to be at their best here. People help one another, give when someone is in need, are understanding, open up to people, think of others over themselves, and truly show the good in humanity. The fact that these places can stay open really amazes me. People do not cheat and skip out on donations; they give what they can, and from my experiences, I saw people giving more than they would have to pay to stay in the muncipal and private albergues.

Journal Entry--------------------

Saturday April 14th, 2012

This morning it was freezing cold and shortly after leaving Grañón it started to rain. Today was a tough day to walk because my knees were really hurting and my stupid boots messed up my ankle again. Now I know why people obsess about footwear on the Camino.

Molly, Sara and I met up in town to eat some tapas together. I like having familiar faces around all of the time, but I am curious to see what it will be like when I am truly all alone. Okay... I guess on the Camino you never are all alone...

I put my headphones on today for the first time because the wind was so loud that I couldn't hear any nature anyhow. I am so happy that I did because the music was so encouraging and helped me forget about all of my aches and pains.

Tonight we are staying in another "donation" albergue where you sleep on mats on the floor. I really don't mind though because these little places are gems and the people at these small albergues are so hospitable. This hospitale is not quite as homelike as the one from last night. Although, it is run by mostly men... and surprisingly the dinner was good! We had paella!

Once again, I got tricked into going to "church." It was more of a small service in a "chapel" which looked more like a weird little shrine to me. Oh well, they have yet to convert me... 😊

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This albergue was a neat little place. At night they had a little "pilgrim blessing," which I should have known from prior experiences that what they really meant was it was a full blown service. I was a little bit uncomfortable during the service because they kept encouraging everyone to sing hymns and I am just not comfortable singing praises to something I have not commited myself to. It was however optional to go and I did go on my own will so in no way shape or form was I forced into doing anything I did not want to do. Sara later told me that that little service meant a lot to her so I am really glad that I went and participated in something she thought was really special.




April 15: Tosantos to Agés

Cold and rain, rain and cold. Today was one of the hardest days to walk. It was so cold that I was afraid to stop walking. There were long stretches where there wasn't much of anything nor did I pass very many other pilgrims. It was a grim day and the first in which I saw how it could be possible for someone to die while walking the Camino. All it would take on a day like today would be an injury to stop someone from being able to move and they might freeze!

Today was the day I figured out how to describe myself in one short sentence-- Overly optimistic and usually wrong. I woke up and put my sunscreen on just knowing that it couldn't possibly be as cold as it had been for the past couple of days... and then it snowed.

Journal Entry---------------------

Sunday April 15th, 2012

This morning I woke up and made sure to put my sunscreen on... Good thing I did because it was freezing cold and snowed and rained all day. I think the freezing cold was good for me because I hardly noticed my aches and pains. I also walked longer than I have in the past two weeks and made great time.

I still can't believe it snowed here today and at home they have weather with temperatures in the 80F's! Lucky jerks... Despite the poor weather, I really did feel great today. I felt like I could just keep walking forever. It was probably my body in survival mode where it knows it has to keep moving or I would literally freeze to death. But really I think I am getting used to walking and can most likely begin to walk longer and longer days.

Molly, Sara and I met up and are staying in Agés in the private albergue. I am so glad because after sleeping on the floor for two nights this place is amazing! It has individual bathrooms with a toilet and really nice shower! And we even had our clothes washed AND DRIED! Horray!! Also, they have wifi which I love because then I get to talk with Goose. I really miss him... Only one more month until I get to see him. I miss my whole family. I am so lucky to have them...

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The thing about doing laundry on the Camino is... it's a bigger deal then you would think. Most days I would hand wash my clothes because many places do not have laundry service. Those that did usually charged about €8 which is pretty pricey for washing two pair of socks, two pairs of undies, two shirts and a pair of pants... When possible if there was a group of us we would all split the cost and throw our clothes into one large load. This was nice because when you hand wash clothes and hang them out to dry, they aren't always dry by the next morning because the weather is cold and wet, but when you use a dryer you get to put on dry clothes the next morning!! I have never appreciated washers and dryers more than I do now...



April 16: Agés to Burgos

Journal Entry--------------------

Monday April 16th, 2012

Snow, sleet, rain and wind-- that pretty much sums up the day. When we left it was freezing cold out and after one hour of walking it was snowing! I ended up losing one of my gloves somehow so I had to put a pair of socks over my hands to keep them from getting frost-bitten.

The one good thing about the cold is that it keeps you going. I don't ever feel like stopping to pee or eat because then you instantly get cold. A couple of times I wanted to quit. A lot of people actually took the bus into Burgos from bere both because of the snow and also because it is a daunting walk.

Ascending on Burgos it took us almost two hours to penetrate the city walls. What a big city! Or so it seems on foot. Molly, Sara and I made our way to the municipal albergue and settled in. Then we went out to do a little sightseeing and get some churros!

Molly and Sara decided to go to mass in the massive cathedral while I decided to go back to the albergue for a little nap. They came and got me when the service was over and we went out for another farewell dinner. Molly is not staying an extra day in Burgos like Sara and I are becuase she is meeting up with her Spanish friend Paco. I hope that I get to see her again... She's so goofy.

We went out to a nice place with great food and sangria. Which I didn't have any of because I am not drinking anything on this trip until I get to Santiago! For a while we were having so much fun and talking so much that we forgot we were on the Camino and that we have a curfew at the albergues! It was 2200 and we couldn't remember if we had to be in by 2200 or 2230! We ran back to the albergue and lucky for us they lock the doors and lights off at 1030pm. Phew!

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It's funny but yes, on the Camino you have a curfew. Many of the albergues lock their doors at 10pm or 1030pm. If you are still out and about you better have the phone number of someone inside to come unlock the door for you. Although, sometimes you literally are locked in. I have heard stories of people getting locked out for the night and having to find another place to sleep. Some places will still let you in past the curfew but some are really sticklers and will absolutely not, usually because they have left for the night to go home...





April 17: Rest day in Burgos

I would have to say that of all of the cities along the Camino Frances, Burgos stole my heart. I instantly fell in love with the city. I don't know how to explain the feeling that being in Burgos gave me. I felt comfortable, excited, and quite at home while walking the streets. The layout of the city is just right in my eyes. I loved the buildings and of course the massive cathedral. Yes, I admit, I LOVE the cathedral. I will definitely be going back to Burgos in the near future... I have to get my heart back!

Journal Entry--------------------

Tuesday April 17th, 2012

So I did not sleep well in the albergue last night at all! My bed was in a hall right next to the only two restrooms for the 60 bed dorm. Needless to say, I was woken up about 60 times by the toilets flushing.

Sara and I said goodbye to Molly this morning and then went out into the city streets to find a hostel to stay in for the night. I was in charge of the map and so of course we were headed in the wrong direction for about ten minutes. Then Sara took over and when we arrived at the place on the map where I had noted the hostel should be, there was so hostel in sight! I had marked the wrong location... so we chose the closest hotel and went straight there.

Hotel Norte y Londres is a two start hotel that cost €50 for a double room so we took it! We threw our belongings in the room and went out for some coffee and breakfast. Then we went sight seeing all afternoon long. It was lovely!

After walking around the city all day and touring the inside of the cathedral, we headed back to the hotel. I then took a bath for one hour! It was amazig, and much needed. Aftewards we went out for an early dinner and then headed to the evolution museum. In all it was a lovely "rest" day in Burgos.

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I have never been a bath person. I think in my entire life after the age of 6 I have taken maybe five bathes in all my years. I don't know why but I just never have liked them. I now LOVE them! Or at least on the Camino I love them. Obviously if you are staying in albergues you will never have the opportunity to take a bath. But every now and then when you treat yourself to staying in a nice place with your own room, a bath is a must. It is so amazing to lay and relax in a nice hot bath when your whole body hurts.

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Photos

Day 14
Leaving Grañón