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Published: July 28th 2006
Toledo
Thursday, July 27th, 2006
I figured I needed to make more of an effort to go visit other cities, and since Toledo is only half an hour away by train, it's the easiest city to vist. It's also one of the oldest cties in Spain, filled with history. It has been around for over 2000 years, a lot of the buildings date back to the middle ages ore earlier.
On Tuesday, I had gotten up late agan and having nothing to do, figured I'd go buy my ticket in Atocha. From Alysia, I knew that it might take some waiting. Atocha Renfe is easy enough to find, straight on the metro, but once I got inside the station, there is no label of what window sold what tickets. I got in a line of people at windows that said ticket sales. When I got up to the front, finally to find out that it's another ticket window. I go to the other room, wait in another line, to find out that I should go to a third room. In the third room, there appears to be no line. It's like the DMV, you take a number and wait. I took a number for tickets not leaving that day. There were about 150 numbers infront of me! At first I was hoping that it would go fast, but all in all it took about three hours for me to buy the ticket that day, including time on the metro. I even wandered around n the station while I was waiting, looking at shops etc, bought a gossip magazine for one euro. Ashamed to say that my first spanish reading material is a gossip mag, but if you knew me, then you'd not be surprised. When I finally got up to the ticket window, the old man who worked there was so nice. He was pleasantly surprised that I could speak Spanish. I was glad that I still remembered enough. These days I've let me Spanish lag. =P There were flies buzzing by and he waved some flies away from me, saying something complimentry about flies are even atracted to pretty girls. Then he took his time after I bought my ticket (there were tons of people waiting still) to tell me that in Spain, they like Asian women. It would be horrible to get bad service on top of the 2.5 hour wait. =P I wasn't really that impatient during the wait, just part of life in Spain. If I had a secure internet connection, I could have bought it online, but then I wouldn't have had the experience. True, if I had to do this everytime, it'd be a pain.
On Thursday, I got up super early. Painful. I got to the train station on time, bought a map of Toledo from a book store, and set out to find the right platform. I asked someone and he told me upstairs to the left. It was easy enough, but I am sometimes directionally challanged, so it took me a few turns. Got onto the train ontime though. The ride was smooth and less than half an hour. I had seat next to the window.
Toledo train station is charming, small, old building with stained glass. I think there's some history in the building too. From the internet, I knew you had to take a bus to the city center. I asked a woman at the tourist bus counter and she told me line 5, 6 or 22 would all go to the city center. When I got outside, bus 22 was just drawing up, so I jumped on.
The ride was short, but we were going from outside the city into the old city walls. Toledo is walled city, with fortresses, castles, churchs, very ancient. The streets are winding and narrow. I got off at Plaza Zocodover, along with all the other tourists. It was just after 11am in the morning. Unlike the other tourist who went off sightseeing, I had my priorities and set off straight for the first cafe. There was a McD's next to the local cafe, and I did think about going in to a coffee to go, but thought it would be beyond ridiculous to dive striaght into a McD's upon arrival in Toledo. So I went to the local cafe and sat down at one of the tables outside. There was only one waiter working all the tables at that time, and he was the most energectic efficient spanish waiter I've ever seen. He zipped around, taking care of al the tables, tiring just to look at him. I wasn't in a hurry so I didn't mind waiting a bit for my cafe con leche. When it arrived, I drank it down quickly. I literally felt the caffine hit my system and felt more awake. I ordered another cup and took my time this time, reading, people watching a bit. I was going to see Toledo the Spanish way, taking my time. After the coffees, I was ready to do some sightseeing.
I could try to describe all the palaces and churches, but I'm sure there are better descriptions on the internet, plus I don't really understand anything about architecture. Wish I did though. Plus you can just look at all the pics I took. I walked all over the town, which is very small. I liked to walk along the wall, near the river. I also liked to see the local apartments, how real local people lived. There was even ne apartment complex that had a teeny swimming pool surrounded by lounge chairs, and very modern one I suppose. I wondered what it would be like to live in Toledo. I got myself lost in the small streets ,looking at shops, etc. The place seems to be famous for mazapan, so many shops that specialize in it. I love mazapan, so I had to have some. I bought two pieces from one shop, and they were delicious, filled with fruit filling. Around 1:30pm, I was ready to sit down for some lunch. I had passed by a shady cafe and decided to go back there. I ordered a an ensalada mixta (lettuce, tomato, hard boiled egg, tuna, and green pepers, no dressing, just the way I like it), and a glass of the local wine. While I was waiting for my food, some more toursits passed by. This old lady, 50 if day, tarted up in a sundress and highheels, sat down opposite me at my table. I looked around and there were other tables empty. She was just rude and cheap and wanted to sit down without ordering anything. I was enjoying my privacy and book, and she just plumped her ass down infront of me without even a word, so rude. I politely asked her to leave and she just glared at me with this what are you talking about expression and refused to move. I'm sure she understood me but just thought that she could take advantage of me because I look young or something. There was a man at a table by himself next to me and she didn't sit down there. I couldn't shoo the fly away, so went back to my book. A few minutes later, another one of them sat down at my table. Now this is too much. I turned to her and told her the same thing. She at least at the sense to leave, then the first one left as well. Geeze! Rude tourists.
Glad to be finally rid of the flies, I resume enjoyment of my lunch. I took my time over lunch in the shade, alternatingly reading my tour book and looking at people walking by. The heat was approaching the height of the day, must have been around 38 deg C, and the town was getting sleepier and slower by the minute. I lingered over my coffee, reluctant to leave the shade.
After lunch, I just went wandering around at random. The whole town was taking siesta, except for the few crazy tourists. Some of the tourists were sleeping on park benches, I thought about it, but the heat wasn't that bad. Plus that would have been truly a bit too lazy since I only had about 8 hours to see the town. I walked all over the place, insde and outside of the city walls. Around 4:30, I was ready for a break. I ended up back at plaza Zocodover, went back to the same cafe for a glass of white wine, more people watching and reading. All day, I have been trying to resist buying mazapan and turron, as there were shops all over the place. Across the street there was another one, and after my break, I head over to browse the shleves of bakeries and mazapan. Finally choose another three after great deliberation. Yum! I purposely didn't buy a box because I'd probably eat them all in a day or two.
I think I had about enough of walking around, really pretty tiring. I didn't feel the heat as much when I was walking around, but it all caught up with me at the end of the day. Caught the bus back to the station and fell asleep on the train. When I got back to Atocha, I had a one track mind, get back to my hostel, shower, changed into clean clothes, and lay down in my air conditioned room. And that's exactly what I did. I drifted off very early, before 10:45, and woke up when Raj txted me to say that he and a friend from London are out and would I like to come out. Normally I would be happy to establish some connection in London as I'm going in a few days, but I was exhuasted and said no. Maybe the next day.
Zzzzzz . . . .
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Ada
non-member comment
Toledo
Hola Joy! Toledo, que lindo! I mi me gusto mucho. Es como viajar atras en tiempo! No entendia que hacia la gente que vive ahi. Si voy denuevo quiero hablar con la gente. Debe ser interesante ver que piensan ellos de vivir ahi. Beso. Ada