Day 9 & 10 Portugalete to Castro Urdiales and Castro Urdiales to Laredo 29K & 30K


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Europe » Spain » Cantabria » Laredo
May 13th 2017
Published: May 13th 2017
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OK, so I decided to put day 8 & 9 into one post because they were so similar and uneventful. At this point 95% of the Camino is on main highways with lots of noisy traffic and only pavement to walk on. No shoulder exists so you are in competition for space with the auto and cycle traffic. As with most places, automobile driver hate sharing the road with anyone, much less pedestrians. Then you have the hot rod bikers that love to silently whiz past you as close as they can. There is very little good to report except the weather, partly cloudy with highs in the mid 60's. These two segments are 29 & 30K long with multiple assents and descents in the 8-900 Ft range pretty easy stuff just unpleasant road walking. The trek is and has been void of other pilgrims, I have seen less than 6 in two days.

I did learn (from a supposed reliable source) that almost all the original Camino has been paved over. Due to the fact that the original Pilgrims were not stupid, they did seek and find the easiest way to get from A to B. Consequently when the 20th century came along and roads we needed the Spanish government chose the same route as the pilgrims. Hence according to my source most the original route lies under pavement. So, the long tedious, noisy road slogging was topped off with the worst lodging yet, at Castro Urdiales. This was a bad place to stop, not many options as it is still very early in the season. We have noted many food and lodging locations are closed until June sometime. Actually that is good news as I can't even imagine doing this in 90 degree heat on the road with no shade with TONS of people. Looking for a better trail soon!

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