Semana Santa 2005

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We made it back to Granada safely where we met Kejal and Charlie and showed them a bit of what we call ¨home¨! Semana Santa (or Holy Week) is a huge celebration in the Catholic country of Spain, but especially in southern cities such as Granada. There are processions that go on all week starting Wednesday and go until the wee hours of the morning on Easter Monday. Some are at night, some are silent, some are in central parts of town while others are in small neighborhoods, but they all have the same concept. To continue the 500 year old tradition of carrying heavy items from the church that are images of Jesus, the Virgin Mary and their lives as a penance.

On Maundy Thursday, we caught a silent procession on our way to a disco club (ironic, huh?). At 4am, the procession was starting. The streetlights were turned off, the silent chatter ceased, and the candles of the processions were seen moving through the street. Men and women dressed in black robes with pointy hoods (resembling the KKK, but their tradition was started first, obviously) carried the candles, heavy crosses or lanterns emitting an incense that filled the entire area with a perfumed smoke. Marching bands played solemn music and the drums could be heard all over town.

Soon came a very heavy ¨float¨with Jesus on a cross, surrounded by real flowers and burning candles. This several ton float is carried by the men and women of religious fraternaties. They are underneath and move in sync to make the images move, as if by themselves. More bands, women dressed in black lace, and even kids dressed up pass before the float that everyone is waiting for: the Virgen Mary. We were lucky enough to see several processions, but they all are the same thing so once you´ve seen a couple, you´ve seen them all. The faces of the people are covered so they don´t show the shame they carry as sinners. It´s all very solemn, serious and religious, but best of all: traditional.

Not all processions are silent, but the ones that are make the most impact. The processions go on day and night and stop for nothing but bad weather. The Wednesday before we got to Granada, it rained and so processions were cancelled, and there were grown men crying in the streets, as they had been training for the procession for many months. Normally, they begin their training in September of the fall before that Easter.

Sunday Laura and I went to church but were surprised that there were less people there than normal and the sermon wasn´t even really about Easter. Guess the build-up is a bigger deal. But, from our apartment window, we watched a few processions where they wore light blue instead of black and the images they carried were happier, like a risen Jesus and a happy Mary. We were surprised nothing special happened on Easter...no special dinner and no family visits to our Señora.

Daylight savings time occurred Saturday night, which was strange because the US has theirs next week, so for a week we´re 8 hours ahead. Anyway, back to class after a fabulous break. Canaries in 3 weeks! And, it must be seafood season because that´s all our señora has been feeding us this week, despite the many times we´ve told her we´re not fans! Midterms next week so studying hard now....and enjoying the beautiful spring weather--I was actually hot walking to school today! Adios for now....besos 😊

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Photos

Semana Santa Procession
The Virgen Mary surrounded by candles, flowers and incense

The passion of Christ
Jesus passing through a procession

The back of The Virgen
How elaborate...people would step out to try and touch a part of the image before crossing themselves

My Favorite Fountain in Granada
In Plaza Real

Kejal and I
Standing on Recogidas in Granada during Semana Santa 2005