Overcast in Sierra Espuna

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Travel blog 16
Thursday, 14th February
Bad hair day! Got up today to Andy's comment that if the Queens guard had the same hairstyle as me they could do away with their busby's! That was it, caught next bus into Granada and found a hair salon with the the gayest hairdresser ever. He spoke no English so it was gesticulation communication which seemed to work. No water in Granada today so no wash, just a cut. Shame he did not speak English as I was dying for him to ask me if I had been anywhere nice on my holidays......... ! Really enjoyed wandering around Granada, which is a wonderful city. Very clean and we felt especially pleased when we saw first dog fouling penalty sign. Pity rest of Spain does not take note on this one, as it really is a problem here. Valentines Day big business here with flower sellers everywhere. However, they never send cards only give gifts. There are no card shops anywhere; apparently the Spanish do not send cards..

Friday, 15th February
Such a lovely spot and a nice day, so decided to do a big wash before heading south tomorrow. Pleasant relaxing day although we have heard weather windy on coast; tempting to stay, but......

Saturday, 16th February
Lovely weather to set off in, down the N323 to Montril. Interesting route on a good road. The main coastal road west from Montril turned out to be pretty too. A fairly busy road but scenic with small towns set into rock faces against the backdrop of the mountains. Along coast found a little town Almunecar which looked good with added bonus of a wonderful German delicatessen we know (Lidl!) to stock up in. Above the town is a castle built by the Moors and below very interesting botanical gardens which were pleasant to walk through, spoilt only by very strong winds. Enjoyed a coffee on the front but what we did not like here was that we could hear no Spanish spoken; English, all around. Made lunch in the van and then headed further west to Nerja. Saw an Aire type encampment which was not our scene, but we wanted a quick visit here and it was within walking distance so parked up van and headed along the beach to Nerja town.Nerja is a well established resort built on a cliff above sandy (grey) coves. East of here there are a series of vast caves discovered in 1959. Wall paintings have been found here believed to be 20,000 years old. One has now been converted into an auditorium. Had a 3 hour walk along the front and around the town and then realised why Andy was in hurry to get back. Man U playing at 6! Nerja was OK but not wonderful. Beaches look so awful with a grey-gravelly sand. Found Stephen our friend from Granada parked up next to us on our return and as he is avid Man U fan too, invited round for communal TV.

Sunday, 17th February
Still windy, grey and very overcast. Set off about 10 along coast not really sure where we were heading. Had a shock at the scenery. Whole area from mountains to sea front covered in plastic covered greenhouses; 1,000's of acres of them. Understand that the Spanish need to earn a living somehow and it seems to be growing vegetables, or I guess, tourism. The choice seems to be acres of greenhouses of acres or holiday apartments. Still pondering on that one! Having said that the law in Spain is now that only developments that have been started can be completed. No new developments are currently allowed as there are too many empty properties for sale.

Stopped for lunch at Adra on N340 and enjoyed an hour walk along the front and small harbourside. We wondered why this was not on the tourist map as it looked interesting. However, on closer inspection realised it was quite poor and grubby. Under heavy grey clouds headed off again to a place called Balanegra. However, did not fancy this little town so carried on to Roquetas de Mar, a name I remember from package holiday days. Pulled up by the long stretch of beach; which was the cleanest we had seen for a bit, and had a coffee. The wind was really bad though and we could not park along the beach, so headed east to a place called Aguadulce where there was a campsite. First impressions as we drove past were that we would not stay, but parked up and walked around the site, which was not as bad as we initially feared. Andy very tired today and he had driven a lot of miles so decided to camp here for the night and roast the chicken we had bought with us.

Felt very homesick today for some unknown reason - think if we had found some grass to park on I would have cried..

Monday, 18th February
Heavy cloud today and quite cool and as Andy did not fancy a move booked in for another night and spent day doing pink and blue jobs. Him cleaning van and emptying waste and me inside washing and cleaning! Also caught up with a bit of letter writing etc. Our pitch on the site was within the Berlin wall! Really have tried to be friendly with the Morgans, but unfortunately it never seems to work out. I love to meet people from other nationalities as usually much more interesting and if we wanted only British people, would have stayed at home. One poor man lit his BBQ only to have a Morgan throw water over it as the smoke was penetrating his encampment! Not good for international relations. P.S. Where is my beach towel for next years pitch?

Early afternoon walked along the beach into the town of Aguadulce. Quite surprised how large it was and obviously the quieter end to busy Roquetas de Mar. Later in day met a very young English couple who love it here and plan to live on the site, having applied for Spanish papers. They are setting up a small business selling jewellery, which seems to have taken off for them. They joined us for a drink in the evening which was very pleasant. She reminded me so much of my girls having brought with her gas straighteners, 12v straighteners and electric ones in two colours! However, camping soon put paid to all that and she arrived to us that evening with lovely naturally wavy hair and wet as kagol's are apparently uncool!


Tuesday, 19th February
Woke this morning to rain but decided to stay put as it is miserable travelling and setting up home in the rain.
Brightened up a bit mid morning so we walked into Aguadulce. Could not resist peering into one of the greenhouses where I saw plum tomatoes, peas and broad beans.. bit tempting as would have made a good tea! Spent an hour in an internet cafe catching up on mail etc. When we stepped out an hour later it was absolutely pouring and as I had forgotten coat found a taxi to drive us back to the van. Had a late lunch and caught up on few jobs - interspersed with spider solitaire which I feel I am getting adicted to! Weather brightened up again later for a beach walk before dinner.

Wednesday, 20th February
Left the site today in sunshine. Strangely had got accustomed to the site and could see the advantages of staying there. Close enough to Roquetas (the urbanised tourist hotel end was actually very pleasant), right on beach (across scrub land - as usual here), within walking distance of Aguadulce which was a nice little town with everything one needed, pharmacy and restaurant on the campsite and on direct bus route to anywhere along the coast. And, yes, got used to the greenhouses and accepted them as part of this area of Spain (in preference to hotel blocks).

Only a short drive northwards to a town called Tabernas. This area of spain is Europe's only desert so very interesting scenery here. In fact there are several film sets erected here where spaghetti westerns are filmed. Looked perfect amongst the harsh surrounding scenery of cactus dotted, rugged, eroded hills and dried out river beds. Absolutely fascinating. Parked van on outskirts of town and walked in to find a small market of fruit and vegetables etc. So enjoyed purchasing some of the things that had been grown under those greenhouses........ There was a stall selling roasted chickens and could not resist these so bought one and a warm loaf from the bakers and tucked in back at the van. yummy.

Looked in the camping book and saw a camp site 5 miles north. Ended up in the most wonderful little site set in an olive grove. It was perfect. Quiet, hardly anyone about and surprisingly a lovely villa with pool which we could have used. Also if you are prepared to pick the olives in November you are rewarded with a few weeks free camping which sounded good to us. Pity it is February. The sun was still shining but by time we had settled ourselves with outside chairs and a cuppa, the sun had gone in and it had started to rain.

Thursday, 21st February
Very tired today through lack of sleep. Think there was a competition who could make most noise to prevent me from my beauty sleep. Had Andy snoring in one ear, persistent dog whose barking was making him hoarse as the night wore on and a cockerel whose body clock had gone out of sync, which must have been why he was cocker-doodle-doing at 2.30 a.m. grrrr.

As weather very grey today decided to catch a bus from the main road (700m) into Almeria and were duly at bus stop at 9.00. After an hours run were dropped off at the bus terminal near the port. There was much less cloud on the coast and it felt a few degrees warmer, so we enjoyed our walk around this interesting town. We walked the short distance from the port up to the Alcazaba and were pleased to find, yet again, entry free to EU residents. It really was a spectacular place, most immaculately kept and at the end of our hour's walk felt it was nearly as good as Alhambra in Granada. It actually dates from AD995 and is the largest fortress built by the Moors in Spain, and the huge structure bore witness to the city's golden age when it was an important port. During the reconquest the building withstood two major sieges before falling to the armies of the Catholic monarchs in 1489. Work was still being done very unobtrusively while we were there and this is obviously ongoing. Adjacent to this is the gypsy quarter of La Chanca where some families still live in caves, and although the district is quite picturesque it is desperately poor and we were told at tourist office to be aware.

Wondered back down the pretty pedestrian area back to the bus terminal as thought we would catch 2 pm bus, only to find no 2 bus, but one at 3. After a bit of a palaver purchased a ticket and found correct bus and arrived back at site about 4.00.

Friday, 22nd February
Grey and overcast again. A few people have said they have never known weather to be so cloudy for such a long time.
We might have stayed here in this lovely spot if weather had been better, but decided to have a late breakfast and head to Alhama de Murcia about 100 miles North East. Road was quite scenic until we picked up the main E15, and we came across our first siting of the the lesser striped rare traffic cone and a hold-up of 5 minutes. Disgraceful of the Spanish.

Unfortunately I had not done my homework and read the write up about the site in the Sierra Espuna mountains. Thought we were staying 5 km north of Alhama, but it turned out to be 15 km north at a village called El Berro, described in the book as an "unspoilt village". Well we are getting wise to this and realise it is estate agent's talk for neglected! The 15 km was on near un-made, single lane in places, road where there was not much between us and sheer drops. However, will add that the village was rough around the edges but with a Spanish charm. The man on reception was concerned about our vehicle fitting onto a pitch, but we certainly were not going back down the mountain, so would squeeze in somehow. 2nd mistake of the day, as we managed to hit the stone brick wall skirting the pitch whilst trying to park up. Felt so sorry for Andy as he has driven us about so brilliantly and faultlessly. We took one look at the damage to the bumper and headed down to the bar where we sunk two large beers. After this damage did not look quite so bad. Trouble is that the plastic mouldings and bumpers on these vehicles collapse like paper, as ours proved to do.

Cooked two nice Halibut fillets for dinner and then went back down to the bar for a glass of wine. Met a nice Dutch couple who were about to play a game of Carcassonne. We had never heard of it but another couple and I, joined in and we sat by fire until closing time. It was a good game and I thought how much my sister Karen would have liked it.

Saturday, 23rd February
Awoke to more heavy skies and to the cold. Got up to put water heater on and then crept back to bed until temperature increased. Unfortunately, this did not happen, so had to brave the cold - 10 degrees. Decided to do one of the way-marked walks through the mountains. Set off about 11 and as we had not taken proper map stuck to the yellow route until that disappeared. Were worried that taking on the red route would be too far, so chickened out and followed our route back. Shame as it turned out the red and yellow routes did make up a circular walk. Had sore legs in the evening as we cannot seem to get used to these hills. Bit snippy with each other today. Possibly because we have got a bit fed up with the persistant heavy cloud.

Cooked a stir fry for dinner from store cupboard as no shops in this area and have not really done a shop for a week.
Coated turkey in the piri-piri Geesje had kindly given me when I left Portugal. Packet stated modo, so assumed it was a medium heat.. how wrong can one be. Not sure what the term is for "help, my mouth is on fire" or maybe "vindaloo". Poor old Andy had smoke coming from his ears.

Before I log off, I have a handy "tip of the week" to pass on in order to keep up with washing and to be environmentally friendly.

1. Purchase largish cool box
2. Place "smalls" inside - or "larges" depending on frame size?
3. Add hot water and soap powder
4. Replace lid firmly
5. Place in boot of car
6. Take washing with you on next excursion (Mum you could do yours Tuesday when you go to Sainsburys)
7. Make sure you take minor roads to ensure plenty of movement in back of car - or come up with own plan for this one!
8. Return home, rinse your smalls, hang out to dry and Bob's your uncle.

You see, you thought we were just learning Languages, Geography, Ornothology, Mathematics, History, Map reading and most of all patience...................

We just wanted our followers to know that our fame has spread since leaving the wild west town of El Rocio.... to find out why click link below. With apologies to everyone who knows us.
http://www.jibjab.com/sendables/view/lb8GY1fGl6RfmotF7dBBwTGX

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO SISTER MARGARET SUNDAY!! Enjoy your day x

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Photos

Almunecar
Nice little town south of Granada

Nerja
Not so keen on this place, but had to be seen

Roquetas de Mar front
Easterly wind in February at Roquetas

Agulduce
Sea front behind campsite

Alcazar at Almeria
Definitely worth a visit!

Almeria
Castle wall at the Alcazar

Almeria
Pedestrian walkway at Almeria

Almeria bus stop
Sadly two pm bus did not arrive, had to wait til 3 by which time Andy was tired!

Tabernas
Ali & horse - "I used to have brown hair"... boo hoo

El Berro
Mountains at Sierra Espuna