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Published: October 13th 2010
Trieste, Italy
The church on the hill.Slovenia
On the ferry to Rijeka, we met the young Irish couple we had seen on the Peljesac. They were going to cycle right out of Rijeka through Slovenia to Trieste in the west. It was the same direction we were headed, but I was worried about the ride because of our bad experience into Rijeka from the east. Another conversation with a Croatian on the ferry convinced us the roads would be good and the traffic would be manageable. We were not ready to stop riding either. Rijeka was cold when we arrived at 7:00. It said 13 degrees (centigrade) on a bank sign. We had gone from tropical to fall overnight. Even though we did not feel like we slept well on the ferry, we decided to hit the road right away.
It turned out to be an amazing ride we were so glad we took. We first had to climb out of the city after getting through the early busy sections. We rode about 7 kilometers of it with the Irish couple. It was all uphill to the border, a distance of about 25 kilometers. The countryside was more farming and rolling with plenty of views. The
Venice
Typical gondola. road was good and traffic did lighten up but it got colder as we climbed. We added layers of clothes as we climbed, especially when we stopped for breakfast (bakery stuff). By our guess, the temperature was in the low 40s (fahrenheit). Even the fingers and toes were feeling the cold.
The border crossing was in the middle of nowhere but at the top of the hills. Many trucks were lined up to cross. We sneaked between them and then were waved on by the guard. Fortunately it seemed like they were all being held for some time. As we descended, we had only a few cars pass us. It was a dream ride. The area in Slovenia is called the Karst. It is similar to the Burren in Ireland, another area we toured a few years ago. Instead of figs, the fruit of the day was what in America is known as the "Italian Prune Plum". We renamed it the "Slovenian Prune Plum." They were littering the road due to heavy storms that came through and then we reached an area where they were still on the trees. We both agreed we had never had such a
Venice
The gondolas being ridiculous. Dan has a more crude expression. Either way we avoided them. The vaporetti is just as good. perfect treat.
When we finished riding the incredible countryside (shout out to Chenango County in New York State, this was like riding Route 12), probably another 50 kilometers. We literally coasted into Trieste for a late lunch. Lesson Here - for anyone leaving Trieste or heading in, take this route. It was easy even with the climb and led us right into the center city. We got our bearings in the awesome center plaza and were appreciative of Italians, who went out of their way to help us find the Informatione office. The Informatione hooked us up with a great hotel/inn, where the bikes were safe, it was quiet and our beds were comfy. It was so comfy that after we explored the city and returned with olives, cheese, bread and wine and never went out to dinner. Gracia Italia, that you can buy olives in any supermarket.
Next day, we again cruised easily to the train station and boarded for Venice. Sadly our bikes rides were done. Even as we watched the coast from the train, we both wondered if we should have been riding through Miramere and beyond.
In Venice, we got to the Albergo
Venice from
We went to the island with ---. Great views of Venice. Marin much easier than last time. The front desk was delighted to see us and discuss the win of Vincenzo Nibali in the Vuelta. Our bike bags were safe. We decided to do our bike packing that afternoon before venturing out to Venice. Great decision because we had dirty, dirty bikes and need to clean up when we finished. Our Venice exploration was perfect. We bike ride for holidays so it is pretty clear we don't gravitate to crowds. This time, with reliance on a guide book, we spent time across the water at San Giorgio Maggiore where we could take pictures of the city from the bell tower. We found out of the way places and fell in love with the city. Most special, was stumbling into Tuesday night Tango dancing in Campo Giacomo dell'Orio. Lesson here - Don't miss Venice, but explore the out of the way places.
By 1 p.m the next day we were flying to New York. Our trip was over.
Good: Night Tango In Venice
Bad: Ending the trip
Indifferent: San Marco
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