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Leaving Bulgaria
We had no idea just how long this journey would take when we set out. This is a two-part entry covering what turned into a 24-hour overnight train ride through Serbia from Sofia to Zagreb. It contains my thoughts on the countries of Eastern Europe and on train travel in general.
July 4th Hardcore Eastern Europe. I remember arriving in the Sofia train station this morning. It was done in the completely drab and yet imposing communist style. The signboard was in Cyrillic only. Information didn't know or wasn't telling me anything. One booth would just point in the direction of another booth. When I returned to the original information window the woman behind the glass just said bluntly, "I do not know" and pointed away from her booth bidding me to get out of her sight. When I continued standing there in bewilderment she just stared past my shoulder like I didn't exist.
The only people who appeared interested in helping us get on our train were some Roma workmen who seemed more interested in "money" and pretending to piss on our meager tips. It would be interesting to live here and see if you could get used to such a heavy atmosphere. It is very interesting to see the countries behind
Countryside
It was great to watch the scenery as it past by our window. the Iron Curtain and how they were affected.
My friend has just reminded me of our first dinner back in Pazardjik. We ate at this place where we ate meat taken off of sword-sized skewers. Behind us was this table full of boisterous teenagers. It was windy and absolutely pouring. Also in Bulgaria, it was great to stand in Plovdiv overlooking a roman amphitheater, as we watched lightning crack the sky over those red tile roofs.
I'm just mentioning highlights here, but driving from Pazardjik to Sofia in the late evening yesterday as a dark blue descended upon the Bulgarian hills will stick in my memory for a long time, as well as the Bulgarian music that poured out of the car radio. It was a moment of our adventure. We now had to fend for ourselves with our Bulgarian-speaking friend left behind in Pazardjik. It added a new element of awareness and traveler's excitement. Now was the time to be on.
I can't remember being on a trip like this. For the way I am traveling and for the country I just left. Bulgaria is generally not in any travelogues. So I am not told how
Serbian Crossroads
This is the kind of quiet scene that doesn't always spring to mind when you think of Serbia. I am supposed to feel about it. I have to come up with my opinions on my own. Or maybe it is the reason why people generally don't have anything spring to mind when they hear Bulgaria being mentioned. It is what it is.
* * *
Darkness is closing in fast. It is absolutely amazing rocketing through the Serbian night. It almost has an overexcited camping trip kind of feel to it. My initial impressions of Serbia are it seems a lot nicer than Bulgaria. Its air is smoky and charming like Ireland. I even saw a shepherd leaning on his long staff as he was tending his sheep. It seems mountainy, woodsy, and just sort of tucked away.
There is no one on this train car, but us and maybe two other people. Oh yeah, and there is a guy in charge of the car who we rarely see and when we do he says, "I speak very good German." The only way we got any dinner was me, finally realizing that we were about to go without food for the night, leaning out the window when we stopped at a small town Serbian railroad
Belgrade Train Station
After spending the night in the rail yard our car was finally ready to be hitched onto another train bound for Zagreb. station and motioning over to a vendor. I got us two beers and these cheese pastry type things for $4. Wow. It has now gotten cooler. I am going to sleep tonight with the sound of the Eels song "Railroad Man" in my ears.
I feel like an old Railroad Man
Riding out on the Bluemont line
Humming along.... * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
July 5th I slept so well last night. I feel more refreshed then at anytime this trip. Which is good because apparently we spent the night in Belgrade Train station rail yard. It seems our car was detached at left by itself for the night. My friend said that he didn't sleep as he was observing Serbian military men marching around in heavy boots. He also swears he heard gunshots last night. Oh well, at least I can say that I spent the night in Belgrade now.
Kutina Fire
Why it was there was unclear. However, we are now back moving along the tracks. For some reason there is a fire burning next to the Kutina train station. I know I should be so bored right now after being on this train for so long, but I am so not. Maybe, it's because of the sheer amount of stimulation and craziness of the Bulgarian long weekend in Plovdiv and Pazardjik. I also dig this kind of sustenance living. Just making do with what you have in the situation you are in. It's one of the main things why I love travel and have always loved it.
My friend is all about doing wind sprints in our train's empty hallway. Me? Sitting does me just fine. I found reading the Economist's article on the future of the European Union's potential expansion in Eastern Europe utterly fascinating. Especially, since I'm here right now. Each country has it's own personality and history. You can just sense how current the history is in places like Croatia, Serbia, and Bulgaria.
I'm getting back into my traveler's vibe. The one I had a little over a year ago. I started to get back into it earlier this year in Rio. Things happen unexpectedly when you travel, but that it is what so good about it. Life is what you make of it.
Note: This comes straight from the journal I was carrying around with me while I was traveling through Eastern Europe. I was just jotting down my first hand impressions and not intending it for the masses. added may 25, 2006
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