ENJOYING BELGRADE THE 2ND TIME AROUND

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Hust before midnight the train leaves Budapest, In the carriage I was with an Aussie and an American/Czech dude, we only have seats no beds so we struggled to get comfy, the Aussie guy was a bit weird and he carries a banjo with him. Passport control got on board, a quick stamp out of EU then the train moves to the Serbian side at Subotica, took a little while longer but not too bad, the lady officer found my old Serbian stamps so she stamps me on the same page. We got told off many times by the train attendant not to put our feet on the chairs and one time he checked us again Lubosh"s(Czech guy)feet was on the cushion he got warned, next time penalty, the guy says. Arrived in Belgrade just past 7am still a bit groggy, we got out of the train the Aussie boy is gone so we moved on and walked up the street to find the hostel, we found it very easily no problem, we checked in Alexander was on the reception, very nice and helpful dude, all the reception staff is cool in this hostel, the Happy Hostel. Got our beds ready by 10am, meanwhile we changed money, and stopped by a drug store so Lubosh can fix his sore throat, we found the great burger joint Alex recommended next to McDonalds.

Slept for 4 hours then we got ready to explore the city, Lubosh and I decided to hang out for the afternoon, hopped on the tram to see the Broz Tito museum, we saw the gifts given to him by diplomats and world leaders and his tomb as well, bunch of American retirees in the site struggling to climb the small hill towards the tomb. We did not have ticket stubs for the tram so we winged it both ways, we neglected to ask Alex how and where to buy it plus on a Sunday maybe closed, dont know, we got away we could have been fined if caught, When we got back, off from the tram Lubosh took a photo of a half destroyed building he did not notice a police officer, he got warned but that is all thank goodness, we dont want to be in trouble on our first day here in Belgrade, anyway then walked towards the citadel/fortress, Kalamegdan I think in Serbian, walked around it but the military museum is already closed, lots of people there picnicking, making out etc. we watched the sun set then walked slowly back visited a few churches then on to the pedestrian walkway.

We got lost big time we kept walking around we saw the parliament, and other attractions,we just kept taking photos, then we saw from a distance a big church the St. Sava church lit up in the night looks quite impressive so we followed it and got lost a bit but found it and wow it is amazing! Looks very nice lit up, we went inside and it was still being constructed, empty inside apart from a few altars here and there, but immense, apparently the biggest Orthodox church in the world, and it is!! it can recieve 10,000 people at one time!
Anyway we looked at the map and realized our hostel is close by so we walked and then invited Geoff another American in the hostel to have dinner at a local restaurant in the Bohemian quarter I think. This is when it reminds me of my Serbian experience last year when waiters short change us, this time around the price on the menu was wrong and we were not informed until paying time, such a racket we made but complain as much we may to no avail, the waiter apologised and offered 100 dibdobs to cover the bill but of course not enough, it was going nowhere so we paid and left cursing the manager which was no help pretending not to understand us. Loved the city this time around, in fairness we just passed it last year and saw gypsy dwellings under the bridge, this time around i was able to walk around and loving it. Jelena and Ana the two Balkan sensation of tennis is very popular here, I saw posters of them here and there.
Called it a night soon as we get back, quite tiring day.

Late start the next morning, when I woke up Lubosh is now gone having got a lift from the American/British couple in our room, very nice couple, easy to talk to and laid back, they will go to Africa driving their own car, good luck to them. Went to the bus station and inquired about buses to Sofia, one leaves 12 noonish another past midnight, decided to buy the latter at least it arrives at 10ish am in Sofia.
The since I was ther on a whim I decided to ask if ther are buses about to leave for Novi Sad and indeed in 20 minutes I am off, took 2 hours and when i got there, dont know where to begin. I asked information how to get to town, she just stared blank at me, no English, then I said the fortress, church, etc, no reaction, "centre!" I said, ah centre, bus #4 she said, struggled to find the kiosk to buy the ticket, but found it next to the bus stop. Bus came and off we went, got off when I saw this tall church from a distance walked towards it then walked around some more taking photos of the nice buildings, not a bad town but not so big, saw a map next to a park but cant see the Petrovaradin fortress, so decided to follow the river and lo and behold found it. Hiked up it nothing really impressive about it, it is the sight of the now famous Exit festival. lots of young couples making out. Then walked back to city center, had my late lunch then took the bus back to the bus station for Belgrade.

Went to the burger joint for dinner, the waiter who speaks English is very friendly and made me very welcome, and put more condiments on my huge 200 gm burger than usual, had a few local beers with it then back to dorm and bed.

My plan today is to go back to the Kalemagdan fortress to see the military museum as it was closed when we went there the first time, took the tram and walked on the pedestrian lane and up the hill. The area around the museum complex is littered with cannons, tanks and other military paraphernalias, torpedoes even, very cool! I was like a kid excitedly checking them all out, then went in to the museum which tels the story of the formation of kingdoms, govt in the Balkans particularly Yugoslavia, very nice exhibits only if I can understand Serbian would have enjoyed it more. There was a photo exhibit outside, scenery shots taken all around Serbia, I did not check the artists name, looks to me like a Bertrande type photos.

Anyway walked to the new side of the city, New Belgrade via a bridge, cant remember the name, waited for bus 72 for the airport, the happy hostel receptionist gave me instructions to get there, i got worried as although 72 was written in the bus shed area, I havent seen it pass in my 45 minutes there then all of a suden it appeared, hopped on. Took 30 minutes at least before i saw the airport, it is outside Belgrade already, Surcin i think is the name of the town. I got off t the airport just before the terminal and asked a police officer where the aviation museum was, he pointed it to me and walked 500 meters it was there, the architecture of the nuseum is great, a round space ship like structure covered in glass, and as like the milotary museum, the grounds are covered with heaps of aircrafts, took my time checking each one out then went inside to see more stuff, all aircraft things, not a buff but quite enjoyed the impressive collection of planes even downed planes from the Yugoslav conflict in the late 90's. Went back to the bus stop and head back to the city again. Walked some more trying to find the Nicola Tesla Museum, but missed it, bothered i went back to the hostel and chilled a bit as my bus ride is not until past midnight for Sofia. Had some great conversation with my American dormates, Geoff from Colorado and Dan from North Carolina. We exchanged travel experiences most helpful from Dan as he's been to most of the Yugoslav states. Had burger for dinner again, watched a stupid movie with the people in the hostel then off to the bus station, took the tram no.9.

As i was walking towards the bus station from the tram stop, a young man stood in the middle asking for something i just ignored him and went on. The cahne bureau is closed so have to carry this dibdobs to Bulgaria hoping i could get it changed. 125 minutes before 1am a bus came on the platform it says Nis, so I did not pay attention, then an nglish speaking guy from the bus company approached me and said that is the bus to Sofia and that I will change bus in Nis, so i got on a bit worried, if in case i miss the connection in Nis how am I gonna be able to get to Sofia? I was quite tired so slept very well until our first stop, I cant see the station names and just hoping the driver would tell me when to get off. Arrived at Nis and I asked the driver where is the connecting bus and as he pointed to the platform the bus arrives to my relief. I bid goodbye to Serbia who proved me wrong the first time was a bad experience for me and now i am glad i went back for a visit, Belgrade is a cool place,people are quite nice and friendly except the waiters in restaurants! and was able to see Novi Sad too. Now I am off to Bulgaria..

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Photos

BELGRADE
AVIATION MUSEUM

BELGRADE
ST. SUVA CATHEDRAL

BELGRADE
MILITARY MUSEUM

BELGRADE
ST.SUVA CATHEDRAL

Comments

[Angry Serbian]

GILBERT! I have made You eat your words about shanty towns! Angry Serb....

[BSR]

Way to go!
That's the way to enjoy the Serbian capitol! I hope you come by again. You're always welcome in Serbia! Ziv bio, care!