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Published: July 16th 2008
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Sleeping dogs
I let them lie Universities are supposed to be places where contrarian views are cultivated, accepted, but I was still shocked when Svetlana's advisor told me "I bet your surprised to meet a hawk in Russia." He gave me a signed latest book, which he described as "pro-Bush." It's not so much pro-Bush as it as a taxonomy and history of neoconservatism in the United States (which he likes) and Wallace-style ""paleo" conservatism (which he detests). The Russian hawk lamented that the United States did not invade Syria back in 2003, which was, of course, where all the WMDs were to begin with. So we talked for a bit and I defended Obama -- "another Carter! The worst mistake America can make!" and tried to argue that limits on American power were not all bad. He was great fun and I was delighted when he handed me his book and suggest I meet his grandson, who is studying at the university. I hope to meet him soon.
I imagine that the Cold War, when U.S. neoconservatives argued that challenging the Soviet Union was a moral imperative, shaped his current views, which are unorthodox in Perm, but considering Soviet oppression, understandable. I also think, especially
The Russian hallway
Russian doors open INTO the hallway, so that busy walkways become dangerous places, with doors swinging into people (mainly me). I dread what it will be like when classes let out at the univeristy (pictured here). after meeting him, that he just likes to play the contrarian.
I've begun working with weights again under the supervision of the Perm State University powerlifting coach, Mark Miholovich. Mark Miholovich is over 70, totally ripped, and a smoker. He doesn't speak English, and about all I can only say in Russian is "да" but our odd couple relationship seems to be working -- I was able to tell him I was not from California and did not know its governor. The powerlifters call him "coach" (in English!) and seem to accept my presence. They smile and laugh, like on Monday when I got trapped underneath the bench press, rush to my aid when I get in trouble. Unlike American fitness centers, which are fanatically shiny and new with mirrors and tvs, the Perm State powerlifting room is old, unventilated, and full of dust. The sort of place I think Tom Smith would feel at home in.
Students from Slovenia and Macedonia arrived at the University Sunday and yesterday and their teacher allowed me to join them on a tour of Perm. So I got into an ancient bus with a Russian tour guide who yelled at us,
Lenin
I tour Perm and see Lenin everwhere (stautes, street names, buildings) Barscsh is to the right. but slowly and with lots of gestures, so that I could almost understand. We saw statues of Lenin (Permians never tore them down), Soviet emblems, the Kama river, a church. The maryred father there refused to dig his own grave during the Civil War. So the Soveits buried him in another one, alive.
The Slovenian sitting next to me (I think he said his name was "Barscsh") spoke perfect English. He is a huge John Waters fan, "Female Trouble," is his favorite.
"Is that the one where the giant lobster, uh, "attacks" Divine?" I asked.
"No. Multiple Maniacs."
Barsch worried about resurgent Russian Orthodox Church (with good reason I think). He's writing a thesis on Mormons and Jevoha's Witnesses in Eastern Europe. Not as much of a threat, it seems.
So there are not only Hawks in Russia, but also fans of American trash cinema. Thursday, the touring resumes. The Slovenians and I will travel into the forest to the most famous place in the area -- PERM 36, part of the Gulag system.
Unfortunately, Barsic, Sveta's cat, had to be euthenized Sunday. He stopped eating and drinking over the weekend, and we took
more oddities
This is a Perm Mexican restaruant -- the seond I've discovered him in to the clinic. The vet said it was cancer. We had noticed a large lump on his side and his ear looked infected. They were both tumors. So things have been busy, mildly surprising and on occasion, sad. I've included some photos. Note the Russian doors -- they cause me all sorts of problems.
Best,
Chris
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Sveta
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Gringos
I think, the mexican restaurant is called something "Gringos", But the guy is a Speedy Gonzalez in the human form.