Eye of the Taiga

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We left Ekaterinburg with heavy hearts. No, wait, heavy bags. To say we weren't sad to leave would be an understatement. To say we were looking forward to sixty hours on a train would be a lie.

However, as it turns out, the carriage was full of friendlier faces, and vitally, windows that opened. We shared our cabin with a young Russian called Sasha who took great delight in spraying his new waterpistol at everything and anything the train trundled past.

An older Sasha who spoke English acted as tour guide as we clocked up the miles through the improving scenery of the Russian taiga.

Something that definitely wasn't improving was the mood of the provodnitsas, who were thoroughly unimpressed with our explanation of carolyn's missing ticket stub. One of the equally enthusiastic railway staff had mistakenly removed it on the previous leg of the journey from Moscow.

We managed to settle the dispute with a little help from our local english speaker. And when we say settle we mean we accepted whatever it was the provodnitsa told us. Don't mess, you have been warned. 60 hours on a train with your bathroom privileges revoked would have been no fun at all.

With 60 hours ahead of us we settled into a routine of eating, sleeping, reading, sleeping, take pictures, sleeping, and on the occassions that we could, jumping off the train to buy some supplies. Or simply to watch the locals who clamber under the trains and across the tracks to make their trades.

Things were looking up by the time we reached Listvyanka on the shores of Lake Baikal - on arrival we were presented with tea and cake - heaven! Our hostess, Anna, couldn't have been more welcoming. She even insisted on getting up at 3am on our last night/morning to make us a packed lunch for the next train and to see that our driver showed up on time.

At the house we also had our first proper Banya. After the train it was the best feeling in the world to be so clean.

The village itself was like stepping back in time - no sign of tarmac or streetlamps. Which made it difficult not to fall over the stray dogs. Not to mention the roaming cows.

Well - admittedly we weren't brave enough to immerse ourselves fully in the lake despite the lovely weather. It's supposed to add 25 years to your life if you do. I wonder how much you get for ten toes?

Getting back on the train again was a struggle - although not because of any ticket issues this time. Our carriage full of tourists were taking too long to embark for the Provodnitsas liking so she literally began shoving us onto the train.

We ended up sharing our cabin with a couple who were looking to move to Macclesfield of all places. What are the chances? It was nice to have some chatty folk with us as the border crossing slowly turned into an epic.

Seven hours, five forms, four different sets of officials and a baking hot day. And there were no toilets for the entire time if you were female. It was certainly a baptism of fire. Of course most of the searches were reserved for the cabins stowed to the gunnels with such delights as Gouda cheese, shoe soles and cashmere socks.

Dave also received a lesson in queueing - Mongolian style. In it he actually went backwards as the woman in front of him asked if he would save her place for five mins and then returned with her entire family. Being British about these things doesn't work around here.

So now we're in Ulan Batar and will update you when we've done more than laze around.

David and Carolyn x

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Photos

Lake Baikal
Fancy a swim?

Round the bend
60 hours on a train could drive you round the bend

So long and thanks for all the fish
Only one of the 'tasty' delights on offer at the stations along the way

If your name's not down, you
With the provodnitsa off buying fish, it was left to the passengers to man the doors

Lonely Planet
Talk about substantial grounds...

Road to nowhere?
Who knows where it goes?

Must Dacha
One of many groups of Russian summer houses

Our house...
... was a very very very fine house

On your bike
Relaxed licensing laws in Russia

Bird house
It's not the sea, but still, they're sea gulls

Feeding the five thousand
Excluding the two doubtful visitors

Refreshment break
Overlooking Listvyanka with the ubiquitous beverage

Comments

[deleted_21567]

Coke!
Hi, really glad you have managed to put pictures to all of this - some crackers there! With Carolyn's antics its good you found someone to translate for you or that could have got interesting. Did you buy any of the fish looks like it had the potential to be very smelly. I wonder if you will get to a place where you cant buy a coke. Good luck for the next part of the journey. Simon

[deleted_21796]

Rising up to the challenge of Lake Baikal (and failing)
Loving the puns. And the references to dodgy 80's rock. Can't beat it! Must surely be the first time you've been British and not Scottish, Dave? Excellent stauch attitude though, with the whole not complaining thing. What did you tell the couple thinking about moving to Macc? Not to?! I can see who the camera was really bought for now though...

[deleted_21595]

Great photos...
The ones of Moscow look good too, but my favourite has to the lake. Is it stating the obvious to say that it looks absolutely beautiful? Looking forward to the next installment. A

[anonymous]

It's a Rocky road...
Right, that does it, one more dodgy pun and I'm gonna Batar you!