A new day! Did I mention how great the breakfasts are in my hotel? Hot dishes! Блины (blini)! Potato pancakes with sour cream! Nom nom nom. In the morning, I'm met by Elena, my paid tour guide. We're heading to Балтийск (Baltiysk), a coast city which is almost totally uninteresting except for the compelling fact that even today, nobody in Kaliningrad really understands whether foreigners are allowed to visit it or not. Back in May, the aforementioned Staus and the aforementioned Aleksandr had a heated argument about this, in Russian, on a CouchSurfing forum, which I followed along by running their posts through Google Translate: Aleksandr argues that he has taken foreign tourists there many times, and the official rule doesn't matter because (paraphrasing), "the old grandmother who checks passes at the entrance to the city
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