Day #18 Suzdal

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Suzdal is a chocolate-box town, known as the "Jewel in the Crown" of the Golden Ring. Every building is pretty and different to the ones around it, and although Suzdal is famed for its churches, the real pleasure is just in walking around the town and taking in the sleepy atmosphere. Arriving on a quiet, sunny morning was unreal, and I felt like we were in a model village.

The highlights of my day were both musical, and both in the St Euthimius Monastery. Firstly the hourly chiming of the bells, playing a chaotic, lively dance tune over a steady droning beat. Overall it reminded me of Hitchcock soundtracks, which was eerie in the quiet, deserted monastery grounds. Later we were looking around the church, the only people there apart from one couple, when three monks, dressed in black robes, entered and stood at the altar. One explained (in english, when he realised we did not understand) that they were going to sing a Russian prayer. It only lasted a minute or two but was beautifully harmonious and haunting.

The other highlight was a revealing exhibition of naive Russian art, mostly from the 1970s. Much of it was cheerful, depicting scenes of rural life, homes and festivals. Only a few showed more sober scenes of poverty or war memories, one in particular showing a postal delivery to the Russian Front. It was fascinating to see impressions of ordinary life.

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