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Published: March 1st 2008
Well, the "travel frog" was at it again, but stayed a little more local this trip. Before getting into the story of going to Ghzel, I need to share a few other things. I received rumor on Thursday that Misha, my driver, was not going to come back from vacation and was going to quit. I had heard he was afriad of talking to me about it for fear things would end like they did with Denis. I think I woke him, but I called to let him know he had earned my trust and respect, and at least up to now, had done thing wrong that would change that. I told him I could not promise to change things, but I would at least like to hear what some of the issues are that might change his mind. Misha has been great and only one or two very minor issues, but overall, I have not complaints and want him to continue to drive for me. I shared with Alan what was happening, and the fact I went through two different drivers while Misha was on vacation. I am not sure Misha will stay, but Alan offered to get me a second part-time driver to help reduce Misha's hours so I am really hoping Misha comes back on Monday. And after you hear the stories from yesterday and today, you will understand why I REALLY want Misha back!
It all started with my third driver, Vladim, this week. He is very nice and has been ontime with no issues the past two days he has driven for me. On Friday, I wanted to go to Moscow to get my airline tickets resolved with Aeroflot and decided to stay the night (this time at a different hostel called the Yellow Blue Bus Hostel, more about that later) so I told Vladim, I wanted to be dropped off at the Yugo Zapina metro station because with traffic it is much faster on the metro and this way Vladim can get on home sooner. I knew I was in trouble when he had to pull a map out to find the metro stop. I honestly think this was his first time in Moscow...lol That supision was again supported when he did not want to pick me up at the hostel but meet him back at the metro stop. I did not agree with his reasoning, but it was not a big deal to me and not much cost to take the metro so I agreed.
No problems getting me to the metro stop. I got to the Aeroflot office in time and then headed to TGI Fridays for dinner where I met my landlord to give him the money for ren. I was so glad to give him the money (which was actually two months) because I do not like carrying that much cash with me. His son translated for us and did a great job. After dinner, I walked around Moscow a little as I headed to the hostel. I found it okay, but could not figure out their code to get in even though I had it. There were only for buzzers and I thought there was one for each floor but little did I know, the first one was one (makes sense), the second one is two (still logical), but then the third and fourth were four and eight, now that confused me! When I called the hostel manager was not there and the guy that answered the phone did not speak English. I walked around some more until the manager got back. Once he explained the code and how to use the numbers, it all made sense but for my first visit, it was a bit confusing. Other than that, this was a super clean place. It is by far the best one here in Moscow that I have stayed in so far. It is also the cloest to a metro stop and probably one of the smallest, which is actually nice. I think being "winter" here and not really tourist season, there was only one other person staying there so I pretty much had the place to myself. Not that I needed much but a bed, but overall, it worked out great.
I had hoped to go to StarLite for breakfast but slept in too late so had to settle on McDonalds for a quick bite to eat and real coffee! It was 10 AM, but I did not see Vladim. A little after 10, I called him, and he tried to explain where he was at. I thought he was still driving there, but in fact, he went to a correct metro, but a different entrance than where he dropped me off and in about two or three minutes, here he comes, walking to get me...lol He was not far, but just a different entrance to the metro. I then wanted to go to Stockman's to get a few "American" things that I can not get in Obninsk so I told him the Mega Shopping Mall. On Friday, he told me he knew where that was located but when we got in the car, he got his map out to check on how to get there. We take off the right was so I do not worry much until he turns at a place I have never gone before and yes, we are lost. He really never went the wrong way, but just the long way, but when I saw his left turn signal on when I knew we had to go right, I took over and told him to go right. As best as I could understand him, he tells me, "I am glad you know Moscow." It is sort of funny, but if you have never been to Moscow, I could understand this.
Now to the point of this blog entry, after Stockman's, we head to Gzhel. First, Vladim is not a very fast driver. I forgot to mention this about Friday, we were the first to leave the office, but about half way to Moscow, Michael passes us. It did not help we had to stop for Vladim to go to the bathroom, but he is still not a very fast driver. I did not mind the bathroom break as it does happen, but in the 1.5 years Misha has driven for me, he has never had to stop. I am not upset about the slower driving as it makes me feel a lot more safe than fast driving so no complaints. Any ways, so with Vladim's slow driving and neither of us exactly sure what roads we were on, our trip to Ghzel took a little longer than expected. Also, the directions were accurate but were very vague when they talked about distances. They said only 40km, but it was more like 80km, none the less, we make it.
I must give Vladim credit as he goes in with me to get me started at the museum to find out, on weekends, you have to have an appointment as it is not open normally unless you call ahead. During the week, they have tours, but not on Saturdays! It would have been nice had the newspaper article that I was following had told their readers that. Vladim did his best to get me in, but with no success. I told him I still wanted to go to the gift shop since we were here. I bought a few things, but really their prices were about the same as I see around Moscow and Obninsk. They had a bigger selection, but not many new ideas, just more different pieces. This way, I can say I actually have something not only made in Gzhel Russia, but that I actually bought there.
Before we head out, we both look at the map and decide the best course home, which was not back to Moscow since Moscow is north and west of Ghzel and we want to go south and west of Moscow and decide the cross country route looks best as it brings us right into Obninsk. I did some work as Vladim drove along. I see the turn off that takes us back to Moscow and Vladim proceeds straight to go the cross country route we discussed so I lay back for a nap. An hour later, I wake up to us merging onto the MKAD (the main interstate that circles Moscow) but what was worse, in my sleepiness, it appears in the opposite way we should go. So I finish waking up and check out the roads and sure enough, it was the wrong way, and how we ended up back in Moscow, I have no clue. What is really bad, we are one exit to where we turned off to go to Ghzel earlier that morning!!!
I know Vladim was checking the map, but I honestly do not think he knows how to read it! He finally gets turn back around and going in the correct direction, as we also pass the Mega again for the third time! Once he gets on the Kiev Highway, I think is when he really knew where he was going, but I will not bet on it. When we get to Obninsk, only two hours after when we should have been there, I ask him to stop at the post office because I had a package there. Now there are a lot of things in Russia that do not make sense, but at least on Gagarina street, the even number buildings are on the right and the odd number building are on the left so it really confused me when he turned right. We drive all back in and around my neighborhood looking for #55 but all the only numbers I see are even numbers so I finally tell him how I want him to go and sure enough, right across the street from my building is the post office. It was not with a lot of time to spare, but I made it before they closed.
Needless to say, I want Misha back! This blog was suppose to be more about Ghzel, but dumby me did not call so I really do not have much to show/say about it so I pasted an ariticle I found on the web about Gha
Taken from http://www.hudson-neva.com/gzhel.htm,
Gzhel: Fine Porcelain from Russia
Gzhel is a place sixty kilometres from Moscow, famed as a place of natural beauty and as a seat of renowned pottery manufactures of six centuries’ standing. Known throughout the world, the word gzhel has ample undertones of beauty, harmony and a reality intermingled with magic. The festive blue-patterned porcelain and multi-colored delftware of Gzhel is loved by connoisseurs in all countries due to its makers’ exquisite taste, daring imagination and excellent craftsmanship.
The cradle and main contemporary center of Russian artistic pottery, Gzhel gave its mother country the best achievements of this craft. Archaeological excavations prove that folk pottery thrived here even in the 14th century. Artistic craftsmen could not find a better place than this, with its luscious woods, crystal clear rivers and superb clay. " Nowhere did I see a clay whiter than this," exclaimed a medieval chronicler.
Gzhel had its ups and downs throughout its long life. For several centuries it remained a modest seat of peasant craftsmen who made stove and roof tiles and cheap household crockery. The latter half of the eighteenth century made it famous for majolica’s of colored clay with polychrome paintings against white glaze. The 19th century came with new locally invented know-how as the craft evolved from semi-faience to faience and later porcelain. Of special interest were items painted in deep-blue under a transparent glaze, all details etched with a refined precision. Many factories, big and small, engaged in the trade. The end of the century and the start of the 20th brought a desperate crisis. The craft seemed doomed.
The time after the Second World War brought the spectacular revival as artists ventured on a quest for new imagery. Years of painstaking work, during which a generation of innovators was trained, brought Gzhel to a new deserved success.
Now Gzhel is at another peak of renown. Designers and potters lovingly preserve traditional shapes and decor, notable for their folk features. All patterns are hand-made, as before, so every item is a work of art on its own. Still, contemporary samples are easy to tell from nineteenth century antecedents, with a modern treatment of profoundly studied folk motifs, and latter day techniques.
Unprecedented genre paintings appear on china. The assortment grew with new shapes and patterns. Now Gzhel produces tea, coffee and dinner services;, samovars, vases, candlesticks, clocks, lamps, statuettes and many other items in an annual total exceeding 2500 varieties.
Many potters, sculptors and painters descend from generations of local craftsmen. A galaxy of new masters appeared within this decade. Vessels and figurines bearing their names are gems of the most ambitious collections. The youngest masters lovingly preserve old traditions, and enrich this precious heritage with their own finds.
Gzhel is a main center of esthetic education, which encourages children’s innate gifts. Starting at playschool, their work goes on to school and college. Local children honorably participated in exhibitions in Germany, Britain, the United States, Italy and other countries.
In 1994, Gzhel became an honored member of the International Guild of Handicrafts. A glorious future lies ahead of this evergreen art as the world gets tired of mass production and thirsts for hand made things of beauty. They will be in ever greater demand as technical civilization makes further progress. . . .
http://www.gzhel.ru/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gzhel
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The article about the pottery was very interesting but you didn't post a picture of the pottery. does it look like the ones you brought home at Christmas?