Bucharest - Brasov - Sighisoara


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July 17th 2007
Published: August 11th 2007
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SighisoaraSighisoaraSighisoara

I've come to suck your finances
Let's start with a quiz. In which city was KAOS formed? (all non afficionados of "Get Smart" may tune out now). According to one episode, Bucharest in 1907 (I could be corrected on the date if someone would like to fill me in).
My mission, thus, was to find a retired KAOS agent in Bucharest. Preferably a Sigfried or a Starker but I would settle for any of the minors: Dr Yes, Leadside, Bronze Thumb, Simon the Likeable, the Groovy Guru or even the Maestro (if only he had used his baton for good instead of evil).
Alas, I came up with nothing. However, I have a theory. A KAOS pension wouldn't provide enough money to cover the exhorbitant cost of accommodation in Bucharest. How does one reconcile that a room costs us 50% more here than the similar standard of room in Paris? I suppose it's the concept of supply and demand. There's not a lot of call for tourist accommodation in Bucharest and thus it's very thin on the ground, leaving people like ourselves paying way more than we would like.
Half a page and I haven't mentioned a single thing about Bucharest itself. Many places we've been so
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Is this the 2nd largest parliamentary building or former KAOS HQ?
far this year I've felt we could have lingered longer. Bucharest is NOT one of those. A couple of days there and I still had no feel for Romania. Best to get out and head for the hills.
Stocking up on garlic, crucifixes, holy water and wooden stakes, we pointed Pepe north and fanged it to TRANSYLVANIA.
Brasov dubs itself the "New Prague". Having not yet been to Prague, all I can go by is photos, but the comparison isn't outrageous. It's also a town with great day trip fodder. Ski slopes (which probably won't see mcuh snow at the moment in the 30-40 degree heat), alpine vistas with cutesy villages that require a double take to ensure you in Romania and not Switzerland. There's also a couple of castles in some satellite towns. Bran Castle is moderately impressive but receives hoardes of tourists on the back of it being "Dracula's abode". The fact that the real Vlad the Impaler never actually set foot on the hallowed turf of Bran doesn't seem to faze merchandizers attempting to financially suck victims dry in the same manner the Count did with blood.
A little further up Highway 1, we found the magnificent
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looking much nicer than in reality
little town of Sighisoara, in fact the legit birthplace of Vlad Tepes, aka Count You Know Who. This at least lends authenticity to all the tourist businesses hanging on to the shirt tails of the good count. You can get your Dracula t-shirts, cups, snow shakers and all other manner of kitsch items. Naturally there's a Dracula restaurant where all the bovines are served extra rare.
The architecture is pure medieval and sits high on hill for all to witness its glory. One thng the Romanians are reticent to mention is the it was ALL built by the Germans around the 13th century. At least it wasn't the Romans for once.
Best to ingnore a few anomolies and just wallow in Sighisoara's charm, despite all the restoraton work that is also under way.
To sum up Romania. After 6 days I'll have to be a pedant but that's my forte.
Bucharest - boo hiss heckle and 2 thumbs down.
Transylvania - yippy yi yo hip ra and thumbs pointing the opposite direction.
Look out Hungary, here we come.
Yeatesy.

Bucharest, a city flanked by Soviet style rundown buildings, traffic that goes in all directions and usually against the road
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Town Square
signs. Pathways made of tar that melts under your feet in the midday sun. Cuisine - mmmmm, yet to find anything that I would call "wholesome food", just a few fast food outlets (McD, KFC included) and not too much else. Bucharest is a place to get out of if only the traffic would allow it. It really is not a place I could recommend. It is under a lot of renovations so added to all my negatives is the dust and dirt that covers you. It's expensive, crowded and offers little in tourist value, but I guess you have to see it.
So after 2 nights I was more than ready to move on and try and get a better perspective of Romania.
Brasov, yes a huge improvement featuring a central square surrounded by baroque buildings (well maintained) and bohemian cafes and bars overlooking hills/mountains an both sides. It has all the charm and character that Bucharest lacks.
Road rules still mean little but by now even Gary is driving the "Romanian way". Our hostel is nestled in a one way street just a block back from the main square. So to get out of our driveway we do
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Cheese and sausage by the side of the road
what all Romanians do, drive the wrong way down our one way street in order to get to town and save a few turns. When in Rome.........
Our day trips to surrounding villages of Bran, Rasnov and Fundatta looking at fortresses and castles were fun, even in the 40 degree heat.
Our last stop in Romania was Sighisoara, the heart of Transylvania and well preserved citadel and medieval town. Apart from all the Dracula tourists, it's a town that makes you feel you have gone back in time. On the outskirts of Sighisoara we came across a Romany livestock market where the Gypsies were buying and trading horses, cows, harnesses, ropes etc. and all being transported by their own horses and buggies.
Penny

More images at:

www.colvinyeates.zenfolio.com


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Bran Castle - Vlad never actually lived here.
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Brasov

Neighbouring village
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Resnov

Yet another castle
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Sighisoara

The "new" town
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and the "old" town
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Sighisoara

home sweet home


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