Alentejo and interesting people


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Europe » Portugal
July 4th 2015
Published: October 22nd 2017
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Geo: 38.7917, -7.68861

Monday morning we left Camping Turiscampo on the Western Algarve, joined the motorway, heading due north, so you could almost say we are on our way home despite still having several more weeks yet to go.

Our journey of just over 200 miles used the congestion free motorways and was straightforward, with Camping Alentejo situated alongside the road a short distance beyond the small village of Evoramonte. With just 30 pitches in a rural setting this is more our type of site and after ringing the bell beside the reception, the Dutch owner, Siboe, came to greet us and checked us in. We set up on a gravelled pitch offering some shade looking out on to a plantation of cork trees, while beyond is Siboe's small herd of reddish-brown cattle grazing.

The Alentejo, a big fertile region, is the breadbasket of Portugal that makes half its wine and is the largest producer of cork in the world. Due to its turbulent past, many of its towns are on hilltops, just like Estremoz with its pavements paved with small chunks of marble, Evoramonte, and Evora, designated a Unesco world heritage site.

It is on sites like these that you are more likely to meet interesting people and this has been the case over the last few days. First of all, was Ivan from Germany on his motorbike who paused beside our pitch to ask about the direction of the sun since like us he was finding the 40 degree temperatures too hot. Anyhow he pitched his small tent next to us and since he was obviously travelling light, we offered him a seat and a drink for which he was most grateful. His English was very good, so we learned that due to pressure of his job in IT with Daimler/Mercedes Benz, as part of a year-long sabbatical he was undergoing an 8-week tour on his Honda Africa Twin, while his wife and 10-year old son are back in Stuttgart. She must be very understanding!

He stayed a couple of nights during which we had conversations covering many topics. Interestingly he was born in East Germany so witnessed the destruction of the Berlin Wall, we compared lifestyle, employment, interests and travel. We were later joined by Brian, also travelling solo, who although British now spends 10 months of the year in Europe, with a particular affection for the Algarve and this site.

Brian's background is photography, specifically portraits, and coincidentally back in the 1970's he used the photographic laboratory where I was employed as PA to the Sales Director, so there was some familiar territory and acquaintances there - small world. He continues to work on projects, documentaries and small films, meeting with many well-known names from TV, film and music over the years.

Then there's Jacob. Siboe has gone on holiday for a few days to Granada, so his brother has come to hold the fort so to speak. The first day we met I was paying for the pre-ordered bread when he said he would have to get used to the currency again. Knowing that The Netherlands is in the euro zone I asked where 'home' was for him, to which Jacob replied Hastings, Sussex. A day or two later we gleaned that he had worked in the NHS and after some more wheedling that he used to be a surgeon! So, he is currently meet, greet and welcome for incoming campers, but also keeping the amenities block clean and tidy - quite a contrast.

Back in holiday mode, we drove out to visit Evora on Wednesday but this didn't start well since we struggled to park the car. A large event (some festival or other) had been held over the previous weekend and the major car parks we had identified were in the process of removing a huge tented village, funfair and retail stalls. Eventually we came across some spaces in a side street and set off on foot for the city centre where first stop was for lunch in Giraldo Square, lined on all four sides by fine white and ochre buildings, many with the characteristic wrought iron balconies.

Fully refreshed, we strolled around the cobbled streets, viewed the Roman remains of the Temple of Diana, and the cathedral. Alongside the Church of St. Francis (currently undergoing a massive renovation) is the Chapel of Bones where the remains of more than 5,000 of Evora's past inhabitants are cemented to the walls of this eerie sixteenth-century tomb created by a group of Franciscan monks.

Sightseeing done for a few days, it was back to site for more chatting and a swim.


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