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Around the island by car
Driving up the mountains to Santo Antonio da Serra. Two things have struck me in nine years traveling to Madeira: 1) how amazing the roads are and 2) how few visitors take advantage of them. Some of the roads are quite epic, whether sweeping clifftop coastal roads or traversing the steep valley walls of the interior and, outside of the main towns, you have these roads largely to yourself. Both the quality of the roads and the scenery that surrounds them make Madeira a driving destination in its own right. Yes, Madeira for a fly-drive holiday
First thing to mention are the highways or 'Auto-estrada'. Huge sums of public money have been spent making more of the island accessible, and the only way to put expressways through such difficult terrain (Madeira is essentially a mountain serrated by valleys) is bridge-tunnel-bridge-tunnel. Each and every metre of auto estrada is therefore a monumental feat of engineering that would put many big cities to shame, and has shaved hours off journey times to most parts of the island. Some of the tunnels go right through the centre of the mountain and are up to 3.6km long. One in particular descends 500 metres from Eira do Serrado to Curral das Freiras (Valley of
Under the waterfall
Driving from Ponta do Sol towards Calheta Nuns) in the middle of the island, and the sensation is truly one of 'Alice down the rabbit hole' as you plummet towards the vanishing point at 100kmh. They are therefore huge fun to drive and a great way of seeing the island.
One word of caution is that the locals tend to drive pretty fast and, impatient to get past, will often drive right up close behind you. This would be seen as quite aggressive in England but, to the Madeiran, he is just letting you know he wants to get past. The correct response is therefore to either speed up or pull over - not to get angry and start road-raging as I initially did. They genuinely have no idea why you are getting upset. Even the local farmers in their pick-up trucks have little patience to sit behind wide-eyed tourists and will usually blast past you at the first opportunity (in fact, trying to keep up with one of these farmers in his 40 year old Peugeot pick-up can often be an exercise in humility for the best of visiting drivers).
Madeira is a temple to the car, not just evidenced by the quality of
Down on the bendy road
Arriving in Porto Moniz all the way from Prazeres the roads they have built its honour. Because Portugal's import taxes and Madeira's extra freight costs make new cars very expensive, many old cars are kept on the roads a lot longer than their sell-by date. A bit like Cuba. One sees pristine examples of old Datsuns, Fiats, Peugeot 404s and delightful old Landcruisers - models long since forgotten by even the most ardent classic enthusiast elsewhere - and they are usually first spotted overtaking you along some country lane. Locals will tell you it is because of the cost of replacing them but I sense some sentiment attached to these relics. The Portuguese even have a word for it - saudade - but rarely would they admit to applying it to the car they drive.
Hire a sports car and go and explore Madeira (Sixt have the best choices, including Audi, but are not cheap). A convertible is essential, especially in the island's interior where peaks tower above you like cathedrals and valley floors plummet away to the side. The coastal road across the back of the island offers amazing views of the cliffs and promontories standing against the atlantic that simply cannot be appreciated from under a
Tunnel in Ribeira da Janela
Driving from Porto Moniz to S. Vicente tin roof. You also get the benefit of some of freshest mountain air anywhere (you are in the middle of the Atlantic, remember), especially when you get among the eucalyptus trees which grow prolifically above 500m. One other word of caution, though, that might change your mind about a convertible: erosion. You will see signs everywhere for falling rocks. You will also see evidence of them hitting the road or buckling the armco, so don't stop too long to admire the view with the roof down - and make sure you take the excess insurance!
Some of the best places to visit with a car and, more importantly, put your foot down are:
The coast road from Machico in the South East to Santana on the Northern side offers many twisting turns and hairpins as you ascend from sea level to the 1000 metre cliffs on the back of island, and past the spectacular former volcano, Penha d'Aguia (Eagle's Rock).
Follow this same road down toward Sao Jorge, making sure to stop at the viewpoint (miradouro) at Cabanas first to see Sao Jorge and the rest of the coastline from above, then through Boaventura to Ponta Delgada,
The Nun's Valley
View of the old road from Eira do Serrado keeping to the old narrow road cut into the cliffside for the greatest effect.
The valley road from Ribeira Brava on the highway west of Funchal, literally through the centre of the island to Sao Vicente on the north coast before heading left towards Porto Moniz on the Northwest point.
Also from Ribeira Brava in the same direction towards Sao Vicente, look for a turn to the left to Encumeada, well before you enter the tunnel through the mountain. This will take you up over the mountain, instead of through it, and on to the plateau across Paul da Serra. You may well find yourself driving in or above the clouds at this point, across a lunar landscape quite surreal, with great views down the valleys and sides of the mountain.
The ascent to Pico do Arieiro, one of the highest points on the island, and certainly the highest you can drive to at 1818 metres. For this, drive east from Funchal exiting the motorway at Boa Nova and follow signs towards Camacha but turning toward signs for Poiso before you reach Camacha. From here the signs towards Pico do Arieiro are easily seen. You feel like
Above the clouds
Pico do Arieiro, 3rd highest point you are driving higher and higher for what seems like ages, and the mountain road at the top twists its way spectacularly towards the peak.
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anonymous
non-member comment
I long to visit Madeira
Year ago I worked with a woman who had vacationed in Madeira and she said it was a close to what she imagined the Garden of Eden to be. Since that time I have been curious. Lovely blog and photos.