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Published: October 19th 2009
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VIEW OF THE INNER COURTYARD OF THE APARTMENT AT THE ALFAMA DISTRICT Portugal-Lisbon!!! What can I say about the land of sea fearing explorers, cork, port, beautiful Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts, hill top town and villages, warm and sunny weather…It is charming, full of character, old, pleasant, very nice and friendly people…I would love to come back to it and explore the northern parts.
Flying over Lisbon, it felt familiar, probably because of its coastline, but it was cloisters of town and buildings on hilltops separated by vacant valleys. I took the taxi to the apartment I rented in the historical Alfama district. Initially, I gasped , when I arrived at San Estvao, Number 4. First of all the taxi driver did not know the exact location, only the neighborhood. He told me he probably could not go to the exact location, and I probably have to haul the luggage to the location. When we arrived in the neighborhood, I told him the apartment is in front of the San Estevao church, he asked the locals, and they yelled out the path he should take. The cobbled stone streets were so narrow that in some areas he missed scratching the walls by maybe ½ centimeter. Most street had restricted access, meaning they had
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PALACE/FORT OF SAO JORGE barriers at certain parts , at these points the sensors measure up the cars, and if all fits, the barriers are lowered. So while I was getting to the apartment, I was thinking what the hell I got myself into and how the hell am I going to get out of this place, on Saturday early morning taking the bus to Seville. The Alfama neighborhood of Lisboa is a historical district with very very narrow streets flanked by old houses and churches. Many of the streets are covered with ropes and hanging clothes. Up until the 17th century it was considered a very fashionable neighborhood of Lisboa, but eventually the rich families deserted the area for other neighborhoods and left it to the poor fisherman. It is going through a revival of some sorts. It has a lot of character. It is lovely in the evenings and nights, the cafés and restaurants light up and live Fado music emanates from them. Beside the climb up and the descend down it is just lovely walking through these streets.
Tuesday evening, I settled in the apartment and went for a stroll around the neighborhood.
Wednesday visited the Visgoth, Moorish, and Christian fort/
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VIEW OF HE CITY AND THE RIVER FROM THE PALACE/FORT OF SAO JORGE palace of Sao Jorge, and the Roman, Moor, and Christian Se Cathedral. I visited the cloisters with the Gothic tombs and the archeological dig that is currently taking place. In the evening I walked around the Baixa (downtown) neighborhood.
Thursday, visited the Belem neighborhood of Lisboa (West of the city) the gateway to the Atlantic Ocean, the Belem tower a Manualine/Moorish tower that welcomed the explorers back to Portugal, the Monument of the Discoveries. I loved this monument, and the Monestery de San Jeronimo. Had Pastei De Belem which is a very flaky, custard tart. It is delicious. There is a pastry shop at every corner of the city. I have noticed each neighborhood has its own specialty pastry treat. There is one Pastereo for Alfama as well, which I tried yesterday, which is the same thing except with almond paste and roasted almonds. I later took the river cruise along the Tejo river from the mouth of the Atlantic to a dock close to Alfama.
Friday, just walked the different neighborhoods of Lisbon from the Alfama, to the Baixa (Low/Downtown), to the Chiado, to the Alto Baixa and back to the Alfama. Sat in the parks, plazas and
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RUA DE CORREEIROS AT THE BAIXA vista points, enjoyed the hill top views of the city and the river, and listened to Brazillian Jazz and the Portuguese Fado music being played in the outdoor cafes . The city is very picturesque. Life is slower here and the people are very nice, friendly, and patient. It was very refreshing. I loved saying Obrigado/Obrigada (Thank You) all the time. The people appreciated it. Lisboa was a pleasure, and I hope to return to it one day.
Tomorrow I head back to Spain to the city of Cordoba.
Until then,
M
p.s. Things that I find striking about the city are the narrow cobbled stone streets with steps, the tile work on the face of the buildings, the beautiful veranda trellis works, and the beautifully patterned tiled side walks. Most buildings are very run down, but the aforementioned really add character and beauty to the city.
Today, as I walked the residential streets of the Alfama, I came across a shop of Portuguese textiles, table cloths, kitchenwear, and towels. The owner was a smiling, small, and old Portuguese man, who insisted on talking to me in Portuguese. I loved it. His eyes were very kind, the droopy kind I
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MONUMENT OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE TEJO RIVER AT THE MOUTH OF THE ATLANTIC OCEAN could not resist and eventually bought several tablecloths from him. It turned out that he sold them to me at a very very reasonable price. He showed an article from a local newspaper that he had appeared on. From what I understood from him and the title of the article it was about the people who characterize Alfama. It is old and sweet, give it some time.
Love you all again,
M
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