Alfama with the Speichers

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Saturday: Today was a simple day of revisiting places with Marji and Gary. Now that we have been here in Lisbon for almost a month, it is fun to go back and show our friends the lay of the land. To start, Marji and I power walked down to the Saturday flea market in Alfama. We only got lost once, which is amazing, considering how narrow, steep, and convoluted the streets are in this neighborhood. The market was packed, but the vendors had lots to sell and I just love to wander. Gary and Mike ubered down later and were sitting in a cafe having coffee when we met them at 12:30p. Time for lunch!

We decided that, on such a beautiful day, a view was a necessity. Portas do Sol was calling us and we were able to snag a table on the edge of the patio. This time, no giant pitcher of sangria. Salads and sandwiches and a bottle of rosé in the sun. So nice.

An hour of so later, our walk through the heart of Alfama began. We stopped at a small ceramics shop, tucked away in the corner of a plaza, that had been closed the last time Mike and I were here. I was so excited to go inside. The tiny woman in the shop was the owner. She said that she and her sister created all of the designs and artwork In the shop. I bought a beautiful, hand painted bowl and wished I could carry more of it home.

At the bottom of the hill, we could hear Nannarella, our fave gelato shop, calling our names. Thank goodness for Uber. Off for a treat! I had half tiramisu and half apple pie sorbet. Gary had half pistachio and half carmello. Marji had half carmello and half chocolate. Mike went next door for pizza! Rain and time to head home.

The rain persisted to the dinner hour, and the four of us went out anyway. Glen was still not feeling 100% since the food poisoning so he and Karen hung back. All the stores in Bairro Alto were closed by 6p on Saturday but Marji and I were content to window shop along the fancy street. Pedro had recommended a restaurant owned by his friend to try for dinner so we wandered in that direction. The narrow streets were starting to fill with young people heading out for their evenings. The music could be heard and the food smells made your mouth water. Pedro’s restaurant was booked for the evening and we ducked into the Italian place next door. The food and service were so good, that somehow, wine, paper thin beef carpaccio, creamy burrata with big red tomatoes, crispy Quattro Stagioni pizza, and a three pasta sampler plate made their way to our table. Full and happy, we walked to Chiado, the next neighborhood down, and took in the music and excitement.

On the ride home, our profound Uber driver, when chatting about the number of churches in Lisbon, waxed, “You know, the churches were the Facebook of their generation.” Hmmmm, sounded good at the time.

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