Three days, about 100 kilometers, Kel and I are both VERY weary. This afternoon, Kel used the pickup service from the hostel here in Santarem, which was a godsend. The day was 34 kilometers and ended with a steep climb. All the way up I kept picturing how her face would look if I had not suggested the pickup (hint: not real good). This was the first hill of the trip, as we have been walking up the Tagus River across farmland (once out of Lisbon). Some quick observations of the country: Pilgrims are rare enough that everyone stops to wish us "Bom Viaje" or "Dias". Far more English speakers than in Spain Food... GOOOD! The cheese you get given as an appetiser - at this stage if I had to choose between Kel and the
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