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Published: April 6th 2007
Krakow, Poland
Strolling in the Old Town (July 4 through July 7 2006)
July 4
It was late morning as the train finally departed the Keleti train station in Budapest. A bit late, but we didn't care, we were to be in a train all day anyway, past nine at night. The ride was quiet and comfortable, though full of passengers. Crossing the border into Slovakia was no problem, and the officers barely looked over the passports. The train was packed and for the first few hours we had a seat, until a very attractive woman asked everyone in the compartment for her seat number. Out of 6 of us that were in there, it had to be me that was in her seat. Gladly I stepped out, and took a folding seat in the corridor of the train. We again passed through Bratislava's main train station with a bit of a long stop, but we were soon on our way. Early to mid afternoon we made our way to a tiny town in the Czech Republic where we had to change trains in order to go to Katowice, where ultimately we got on our train to Krakow.
My brother and I grabbed our bags and
Krakow, Poland
In the Old Town met an older couple from Boston that were on their way to Warsaw. We chatted a bit, and wished each other good travels. The time between the trains was just under two hours and we headed out to explore the little town.
It was a very warm day as we walked the streets of Breclav in the south of the Czech Republic. The town was small, and the people who were also taking advantage of such a beautiful day were warm and friendly. After searching all over for a restaurant, we couldn't find one that accepted credit cards, so we searched instead for an ATM. The only place we found one, was back at the train station. Desolate inside, we got our money, while a young local of no more than 10 years of age, circled us repeatedly. We don't know what he was doing, but we soon left, and headed to a small shop across the street. Very quaint, and very cheap, we relaxed and cooled off with some drinks while filling our bellies.
After waiting a while for the new train, and switching tracks a couple of times, we finally got on the train to Katowice. The ride
Krakow, Poland
The town square was nice, and we had our own rows of seats where we were able to take advantage of a short nap. Rested, the train finally made its way into Katowice, where we had to wait no time for the train to Krakow. My first impression of Katowice was very impersonal and busy. The view that we saw from the train station into the city was nice, but nothing exciting.
It was light out when we left Katowice, and after being hassled by a few individuals about hostels in Krakow, we made our way into the city already dark outside. Our guide book showed a quick exit out of the train station; however, the station was being remodeled at the time we got into town. After orienting ourselves, we made the 15 minute walk to our hostel--The Oasis. The walk was short, and the streets were well lit to see their names. Few people on the streets and very quiet. The hostel is located in a residential building, so we had to make our way to the back to the reception. Got our room, went out for some cash and food, and asked the woman at the desk for the nearest
Krakow, Poland
St. Mary's Church bar to watch the game of the day. She suggested a bar a block north, then a block east, and then another block north from the hostel. We decided to follow her suggestion.
The Germany vs. Italy game was on, and we settled in to have a few of the local brews while the game transpired. Italy won 2-0 and after a few more drinks we went back to the hostel, stopping at a local fast food restaurant. There we met two very young Aussies, and discussed the games and their travels. It turned out they were staying at the same hostel we were, so we ended the conversation in the hostel's kitchen. There we met an American who was traveling around the world, and had been in Krakow for a couple of weeks, as well as a very interesting character that was staying in our room.
July 5
Our plan was to wake up early, we did, and head to the bus station, behind the train station, and go to Auschwitz. Again it took us forever to find the place due to the construction, but were able to buy tickets on time, but unfortunately, we missed the bus
because our breakfast took to long in ordering, and we shrugged it off and planned to go the next day. Instead we walked the city of Krakow and sight see. From the train station we walked east, on Basztowa, towards the Florian Gate. We made our way through and into the old town. Once one passes through the gate, the city of Krakow comes alive. The tourists walking around, and the locals doing their business make the city jump out. The walk towards the town square, Rynek Glowny, was vibrant and amazing. Being the largest square in Europe, we were very happy to be there. After strolling around, we walked into the arcade, where a souvenir market is set up, and made purchases of chess sets that are amazing.
Past the Town Hall Tower, we walked south on Wislha, towards Staszewskiego, which would take us to Wawel Hill and Wawel Castle. The walk was great, shaded by trees all the way down to Wawel Hill. At the corner of Straszewskiego and Podzamcze, you can find a nice bar/restaurant, where we stopped and had a few beers, while being served by some of the most beautiful women. (Poland in my opinion,
Krakow, Poland
St. Mary's Church has extremely attractive women.) With our thirst quenched we walked up the hill, and inside the walls. The area atop Wawel Hill, is nice, and the biggest draw for me was the view of the Vistula River and the outlying city.
Our instincts told us to walk west from the castle to the Jewish quarter, which we did, in order to make our way to the Jewish Museum. Again, just like walking into the old town Krakow, once we walked across Bernardyriska, and onto Stradomska, the city has a totally different vibe. It is busier, and the streets are full of cars. We walked past several important and historical buildings, and through side streets until we finally made our way to the museum. Unfortunately it was closing when we arrived, and everyone waiting outside was not let in. A bit disappointed, we walked north again, and found a cemetery, and strolled around. Not very big, but the tombstones were interesting.
After roaming around, we made our way to a pastry shop and a hot dog stand, where we had a bite to eat. Already late afternoon, we walked to the old town once again and got lost in its side
streets. Getting close to the France vs. Portugal game, we walked up to the hostel, dropped our chess sets, showered and changed, in order to head back into the old town, to see the game with a crowd. People were out once again, this time with people promoting their bars and the deals that they were having. Finally, we chose a very cool bar, with plasma TVs. A bit quiet inside, we made the best of it. France won the game 1-0. We decided to call it a night after the game, as we were leaving early in the morning for Auschwitz.
Krakow was great. A very small city, but with lots of things to do. The only thing that I wasn't all that excited about was the hostel. It was very small, and the rooms are all on top of one another, with beds literally two inches from each other, as the owners are trying to maximize space, I guess. The people are all extremely friendly, and from what we say the city had a lot to offer.
July 6
Early in the morning we rode down to Auschwitz. The ride was quiet, and the sun was shining
Krakow, Poland
Town Hall Tower extremely hard. By the time we arrived to the train station, it was extremely warm. Once inside, we waited a good 15 minutes while those that were working inside could open up the lockers and we could leave our bags, while we toured the concentration camp. Everyone in the town was nice, and helped us get on our way. While waiting for the bus, everyone gave us suggestions on the best way to arrive at the camp, and they even pointed to the stop well in advance. From the train station, the local bus takes less than a 5 minute ride, and you can clearly see the entrance to the camp. We walked a few hundred meters towards the entrance, and went inside. The walk was very somber, as even droves of tourists didn't speak much. As you walk through the camp, you are able to walk into different buildings and get a sense of what people went through. Solitary cells, living conditions, and displays that allow the visitor to really see what went on. There is also an exhibit set up on the topic of xenophobia, which was extremely powerful. The last thing on the tour is the gas
Krakow, Poland
Little Boi enjoying a beer near Wawel Hill chamber, and it leaves you drained as you make your way out. The day was beautiful, and after leaving the camp, it was the only thing that made me feel a bit upbeat. Across the main entrance of the camp, on the opposite of where the bus dropped us off, there is a small shopping center with parking spaces for visitors, restaurants, and even a hair salon. Already early afternoon, we were starving and had a good slice of pizza.
The walk to the train station was not that long, and as we had seen from the bus ride, it was well shaded with trees. The houses on the way are extremely beautiful, even though many were falling apart. Little kids were playing outside in the yards, and we walked to the station.
After getting our bags, we waited an hour, had a nap, and even played chess, until the train finally arrived to take us to Katowice and head to Olomouc, Czech Republic--a very small town that we had heard of back in Salzburg, and had decided to spend some time there. The ride was slow, and we arrived into Katowice late afternoon. Once there we saw that the
train to Olomouc left late, and we would be getting into the town a very late hour. So we decided instead of getting into Olomouc past midnight, we would stay in Katowice, and spend only one night in Olomouc. The four star hotels in this city were cheaper than 8 bed dorm rooms in hostels in Germany. We couldn't believe it. The room was great, and the beds were comfortable. The views the room provided were magnificent, and it made us want to explore the town. Already early evening, but still light out, we walked all over town for a good two hours. Many things were closed, but it helped us orient ourselves for the next morning. The center of town was buzzing, and in front of the train station, there is a small street that is literally filled with people enjoying dinner or a beer. The atmosphere was great. Back in the hotel, I finally shaved after a few weeks, and went to bed early.
Katowice was wonderful, and a shame we didn't think of staying there longer and get to see more of the city.
July 7
Our time in Poland was spent on roaming cities, and
Krakow, Poland
Atop Wawel Hill walking everywhere within them. The three cities we saw were great, and every person we met was very friendly. A very good time overall in Poland.
The next morning we checked out early, bought as many things as we could at a supermarket we had seen the night before, including extremely horrible, hot beer. We walked to the train station, and headed to Olomouc.
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