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Published: June 13th 2015
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Heading out for the day.
Our apartment was superbly located just minutes walk from the old town and endless numbers of restaurants. As I mentioned earlier, we set out to visit this capital city of Poland with lowered expectations for a few reasons, (a) some Poles had told us not to bother but to see Krakow instead and (b) I was less interested in the Soviet communist influence on its architecture. But, one should not ignore a capital city that was so devastated in that conflict.
And so we arrived by train to its massive main central station then headed out amidst heavy rush hour traffic to find our apartment in the old city. Our area at first appeared to be very typical of a European city apartment living area with nothing special about it to distinct it from anywhere else. However, our apartment was lovely and on the second floor; very clean with everything we needed as well as a small veranda which looked out on to a green area. We wasted no time in settling in, taking a shower then heading off for our first evening in Warsaw.
It was absolutely nothing like I expected as we walked into the old town greeted by floodlit buildings, scores of restaurants and people out enjoying their city and each other. It
Gee buys tickets to a Baroque concert.
Listened to Bach's music on huge pipe organ by Kapitula, Polish virtuoso organist. seemed obvious that while most of the city had to be rebuilt, much thought was given to retain some of the architecture of the past in certain areas.Tables were filled with people having dinner or enjoying a beer (mostly) although wine also competed for table space. We settled on a place, ordered and got busy with our Polish cuisine. My wild boar was delicious, very lean but far too much food for one person while Jeanette had tasty Italian fare. It seemed that there is a tradition to offer liqueur on the house at the conclusion of dinner. We enjoyed our cherry flavor.
It was really late when we got back to our apartment and we both fell into deep slumber. After breakfast we set out, and as usual I followed my personally assigned special guide, who with map in hand, confidently pointed us in the right direction. I seemed not to have yet learnt to refrain from challenging her choices, since I am invariably wrong. And so I follow Jeanette.
I have come to realize that not only does she have a much better sense of direction than I give her credit for but she certainly has a knack for prioritizing our activity and suggesting great choices.
And so we first found
Lazienki Park. As we approached the entrance the first observation was that entry was gratis. This sprawling public domain was lush green - huge trees of many a variety welcomed everyone as they lined broad pathways and manicured verges. On each side scores of visitors strolled along in every direction. It was a place of serene tranquility as a gentle breeze rustled the branches overhead helping to dispel the reality that we were actually in the midst of a bustling city. Perhaps this is one positive legacy of its Communist past that a facility like this could be free to the public. Everywhere we walked maintenance people were working to keep it clean and attractive.
Slowly we emerged onto the Palace grounds and revelled in its outward elegance and relative simplicity, although the influence of ancient Greek and Roman architecture was evident. It was located on a small isle so the prominence of water was dramatic yet peaceful. A few feet away we were drawn to a beautiful structure which turned out to be the Palace theatre. It was not difficult to imagine the
Nearby our apartment.
We walked down some steps just before the orange building on the right and in a few minutes were "home". royalty of the time enjoying a play in the presence of their royal guests with music and lights bringing the evening to life.
On the other side of the theatre was located a large outdoor restaurant and would you believe that sitting there were the two Canadian ladies whom we had met in Krakow? Needless to say it was a happy moment as we sat and enjoyed each other's company over coffee and cappuccino. As we wandered further trying to find Frédéric Chopin's monument, we engaged another couple in conversation as they passed in the opposite direction. They were of Polish decent now living in Sydney, Australia, a city that both Jeanette and I liked. They strongly suggested that we visit the main Wilanowie Palace as the one we had just seen was only the summer residence. They were very proud of their mother country and spent time explaining much that we did not know about. For example it was that king who finally drove the Ottoman Turks out of Poland.
When we located Chopin's statue we stayed awhile to enjoy the area and again think of his contribution to the world through his great music.
Then
Inside Lazienki Park in central Warsaw.
The park occupies 76 hectares of the city centre. on to Wilanowie Palace. As soon as we entered the grounds we quickly understood why it is referred to as the little Versailles. It was simply impressive and its gardens beautiful. While definitely on a smaller scale than the magnificent Versailles, we enjoyed our time there but eventually had to make our way back. It was a long day as usual but thoroughly absorbing and worthwhile in every sense.
Feeling a bit hungry we got off the bus near the University and while Gee slipped into a little place nearby I wandered off and found an interesting cafe that offered burgers on its menu. I was immediately greeted by a very friendly girl and soon Jeanette joined. Her brother owned the place and I intend to write a good review on TripAdvisor as I really enjoyed the delicious burger, beer and ambience as well as the conversation. Later on that evening, after walking back from a beautiful fountain of dancing lights, we remembered her recommendation about an interesting restaurant in the old town. Again, with Gee's good sense of direction, we found it, tucked neatly opposite an old castle. So, we stepped in to enjoy a glass of wine
but got tempted by the menu and alluring atmosphere and enjoyed a second dinner. Dinner because what arrived at our table, having only ordered "something to munch on" to accompany the wine, what they presented was just that - another "dinner", comprising an array of delicious meats on a bed of salad, plus gerkins and saukraut. Yummy!
And that is how our last evening in Warsaw ended as we strolled home through the still active restaurants, cafes and bars to our cosy abode not far away, for refreshing slumber, pleasant dreams and excitement for the flight to Germany.
Thank you Warsaw for ending a surprisingly enjoyable sojourn in Poland where everyone we met impressed us with their hospitality and sincerity. We will return, God willing, together with the Polish part of our family - Tessa, Tom, Konrad and Zofia.
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Heather
non-member comment
Warsaw
Amazing! Thanks for sharing those beautiful experiences