Gozo’s not that big, about five kilometres from one side to the other, so we set off on a drive, figuring that if we keep going for long enough we’re sure to find something interesting. We don’t have to wait too long. The set of salt pans a kilometre or so west of Marsalforn is the most extensive collection we’ve seen in Malta so far, all laid out in neat geometric patterns on the flat rocks a metre or so above the waterline. And this lot is very definitely still a going concern. Unlike all the others we’ve seen, there are signs here warning us to keep out on pain of death, well maybe not quite, but the message is clear enough. We read that they’ve been here since the early 1800s, and the same family’s
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