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Published: September 30th 2007
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The 'Lovers Clock'
Built by the Soviets to help people get to work on time (!) it is famous for being a meeting place for couples. Who will you meet there? "Latvia - the country that sings" is the tourism tagline we saw on our 4 days here. But as Aussies in this 'country that sings', we found ourselves asking "Well where the bloody hell is the song?" (We should mention this blog has been banned in England...) As a result, Latvia can be a confusing place for Australians to visit. To help you navigate this tricky country we have assembled a list of FAQs so you can make the most of your time here.
Is Riga as beautiful as made out? Yes, Riga is in fact a very beautiful city, and is easily the best part of a trip to Latvia. The old town is full of architecture from another era, winding cobblestone streets to get lost in and amazing churches at every turn. But what differentiates it from other similar cities is the fantastic coffee shops and lively nightlife - something we did not expect to find this deep in eastern Europe!
However it has befallen the tragic fate of many other old European cities and is now victim to a new and dangerous predator - the drunken English stag weekend. 'Keep Drunken English Stag Parties Out Of
The House of Blackheads
You won't find any unsightly blemishes here...but you will find one of Riga's most famous pieces of architecture. Riga' (or K.D.E.S.P.O.O.R. for short) is the action group set up to raise awareness for the plight of this timeless city.
How can I donate to K.D.E.S.P.O.O.R.? You can't.
Would you advise going out on the town with locals you have never met? Yes. But only if you pay them and spend a few hours drinking at their flat first. We managed to achieve this courtesy of a 'Consumer Connection research visit' Anthony was undertaking. We met Raimonds, Armands, Janis (nicknamed 'Little Guy') and one other (name forgotten) whose brief was to take us on a normal evening out. This started with a visit to the supermarket to stock up on lots of cheap alcohol (too expensive in town) and pizzas that could later be badly cooked. Over the course of the night we got to know them over some drinks at home, shots in an underground bar and 90s music in a club. We can report that this was very fun. If you tag along on one of these work events (as Steph did) it may at first make sense to go undercover as another Unilever employee. This can however backfire if the group tries to
Dividing the Old Town from the New...
...is this pretty park by the canal. Perfect for reading a book or a carefree afternoon stroll. set up 'Little Guy' with you, in front of your secret husband. By no means do we advise avoiding such situations, but please enter with eyes wide open.
What is the best drink in Latvia? The hot chocolate from Double Coffee. It is so rich it comes with a spoon, although one could argue you actually need a knife and fork to best attack it. It was so rich that it even beat the chocolate machine that is Stephanie😞...but not Anthony😊 At the other end of the spectrum is Black Balsam - a traditional Latvian drink (readily available in the supermarket) that even the locals steer clear of. This travelblog advises caution.
Do we love Russians in Latvia, or do we hate them? An interesting question which really depends on who you speak to. Start your quest for an answer at the Museum of Occupation, which is a fascinating look at the short history of Latvia (which has been occupied for 51 of it's 88 years - first by the Soviets, then the Nazis, then the Soviets again). It certainly provides a chilling look at this time and catalogues horrible acts perpetrated by both occupiers. During our time
The Entrance to Salispils Concentration Camp
"On this way went crying children, mothers, fathers and grandfathers - all went to die. Who will count those unsaid words? Who will count the lost years which Nazi bullets killed...?" in Riga we spoke to a few Latvians. One group concur whole heartedly with the Museum and still bear hard feelings towards Russians. The other group spits on places like the museum, and say the government need to stop the propoganda and acknowledge all the good things that came from Soviet rule (such as infrastructure and education). It's fair to suggest that this second group of people is largely of Russian descent.
What is the most moving place in all of Latvia? The Salaspils Concentration Camp, where between 1941 and 1944 an estimated 100,000 were murdered. The entrance to the memorial reads 'Beyond this gate the earth groans'. Today all that's left is a large, open space laying out the foundations from the original buildings, with subtle memorials dedicated to those killed. In the middle are huge statues representing the unbrokeness of the human spirit. By chance we found ourselves alone to walk through this big area - an amazing experience. The site was extremely simple, but somehow this is appropriate for such an important place.
As an Aussie, should I leave home and come to Latvia for great beaches? Latvia is known for it's beaches - in
Cape Kolka
The wooded entrance to Europe's longest beach. fact it boasts the longest beach in all of Europe. Unfortunately they also boast large amounts of driftwood, rubbish, muddy cold water and too many Latvians in budgie smugglers. So all things considered, we would recommend not buying a plane ticket from Australia to Latvia SOLELY for sunbaking and surfing. We think it best to drive to Wollongong.
Should I eat random food I find on the ground? The experts are divided on this one. Anthony would say no, not in any circumstance. Stephanie's view on this is more liberal, taking the attitude that if it's small enough to fit in your mouth, and is not moving, it's probably a berry or herb and should be eaten. Again, we advise caution.
Is Sigulda the new Switzerland? Um, no probably not. Although a road trip to this national park is certainly a pretty way to kill a day. This forested area surrounding old castle ruins is Latvia's outdoor capital. If you also visit in the middle of summer you may be dissapointed to find no ski lifts operating, but this coincides well with there being no snow. We rode the mountain toboggan which was scarier than expected (although this
is more to do with ride safety than any intentional design elements). There is also a nice camping area by the river, where unfit men in speedos can play volleyball.
Do the locals think Sigulda is the new Switzerland? Yes, they do.
And the song? Well that is one question that these travel correspondents recommend you find out for yourselves. (Ok, we don't know. At one point we though we grabbed a bar of melody and tried to hum it out, but heck, we just couldn't place it.)
Stay tuned as next week we examine the western half of the former Yugolslavia...Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina.
Note from the Editor (Stephanie): I
do not, as Anthony has suggested, eat any random thing I find on the ground. However, at English camp I discovered that blueberries and raspberries grow wild in the forests, together with pear and apple trees which are almost everywhere. So if I see some berries or something growing and they seem to be edible, then yes, I may try them!! However I don't pick up random things off the ground and munch on them! grrrr 😊
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