Walking alongside the Zattere

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I walked out of the hotel and took an immediate right hand turn. I'd already been thinking about where I wanted to go first, and I wanted to see if I could remember the way. I was walking down Calle Larga Forscari which will take you over the Rio Foscari. I paused at the bridge over the canal and took a deep breath looking up to the sky above. I could tell that it had rained earlier in the day before I got to Venice, there wasn't a cloud in the sky. I looked up and could feel the sun shining on my face as I looked out across the water.

So strange to think that the last time I was here it was snowing! All around me Venice was bustling with activity, you could see people walking everywhere alongside the canals. The waterways themselves were busy with boats going back and forth to their various destinations. On the opposite end of the bridge you will see the Universita Ca Foscari. I remember Sam telling me that he'd gone to school here awhile back. On this particular day the gate was closed but I made a mental note to walk inside and take a look around later on if possible. My destination lay further onward into Dorsoduro as I was headed for the Zattere.

The Fondamenta della Zattere is a promenade that runs along the south side of Dorsoduro. I did some research and discovered that the Zattere was actually built in 1519. It was used a landing dock for the delivery of wood for the building of ships. Zattere means raft in Italian so I found the name to be rather fitting. When I was here before, it was a sunny yet frigid day in early March. I remember having lunch with Sam along the Zattere eating pizza outside in the sunshine. I remember thinking how glad I was that I brought my winter jacket!

Two years later, I'm reach the Zattere once more and I'm looking out over the waters of the Canale della Giudecca in mid summer. I suppose traveling at different times of the year has it's benefits but I decided that very few things can compete with the majestic view the Zattere provides as you look across the water towards la Guidecca. I had no actual plans except to walk and see as much as I could. I'll be honest, I'm not too sure how long the Zattere stretches in terms of miles or kilometers. Ultimately, it doesn't really matter. When you come to Venice make a point of walking up and down the whole length of it. Take the time to stop, look, listen, reflect and even more importantly breathe.

It was Marcel Proust that said, "the real voyage of discovery consists of not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes." I came across this quote years ago, and all I can say is that it's absolutely true. I've been fortunate to travel to a lot of amazing places and I always find something new to marvel at each time I return. For me, it's like reading a favorite novel, you never grown tired of the places, the people, or the characters you may encounter on the journey.

The Zattere actually ends at the Rio di Sabastino, so began to make my way back up the promenade. I stopped to sit on a bench for awhile snapping a few photos. Any of my friends reading this know that "a few photos" actually means anywhere from 20 to 50. After a moment, a young Italian couple sat next to me. I looked over and saw that they were young, maybe in their early 20's. I was lost in my own thoughts but it wasn't too long before and I observed that they were in the middle of a "romantic" moment. I decided to move on and give them a little privacy. I have no doubt that they didn't even know I was there to begin with. People tend to frown upon open displays of affection at home. Italians have no such resevations about expressing their love for each other and I personally think it's pretty awesome.

I started walking up the Zattere with the eventual goal of reaching the Palazzo Dogana di Mare which overlooks the Canale di San Marco. Have you ever seen it? If not, I encourage you to make the trip when visiting Venice. When you reach the Palazzo, you will have an unparalleled view of the Piazza San Marco and the Doge's Palace. It's not to be missed for a moment. I paused for awhile and decided to just breathe and take in the view for myself. Some of the best travel experiences I have had just involve sitting. Think about it. Every time I travel, it's common for me to see people rushing from one monument to the other, checking their itinerary to see what's next. I know that I won't get to see everything in one trip. That's why, I start making plans for my return trip to pick up where I left off.

Visiting Venice in mid summer provides me with an exceptional opportunity to explore the city like never before. Eventually, I started making my way back thru Dorsoduro from the opposite direction whence I came. I brought my map with me but I was proud of the fact I didn't need to look at it too much. I've been blessed with a good sense of direction but one of the best things about Venice to my mind is getting lost. You discover so much more by getting lost then you'd ever dream of if you followed a map.

When you walk back from the Palazzo Dogana di Mare, you will see the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. I remember when I last was here that the church was closed due to renovations. Would it be open this time? There was only one way to find out. The closer I got to the church, I saw that it was indeed open and I'd be able to go inside. Here's some history behind this particular church. In 1630, Venice suffered a severe outbreak of the plague causing many deaths in the city. When the plague deaths subsided, the city elected to build a church that was an offering of deliverence from the pestilence that had devasted the city during this time. Translated from the Italian Santa Maria della Salute means Saint Mary of Health.

Pictures are not allowed inside the church so I put my camera away and remove the bandanna from my head in respect. What I relate here is drawn strictly from my memory. The church is in the Baroque style and it is physically imposing both within and without. The church is octagonal in shape with vaulted ceilings and marble floors. Light streams thru the upper windows which shines down to illuminate the interior of this beautiful church. It was quiet inside, you could see visitors slowly walking thru the church. Some where sitting in the pews with their heads bowed in prayer, others were just sitting quietly. Probably for me the most impressive sight was the high alter. At the high altar, you will see a truly magnificient representation of the Madonna and Child. Panagia Mesopantitissa, the Greek translation is Madonna the Mediator which illustrates the power of the Virgin and her Son driving the plague from the Republic.

When you leave the church there's a quiet bridge over to the right which will take you back thru Dorsoduro. I made my way back thru the quiet streets passing by the Peggy Gugenheim Museum. I made a mental note to return for a visit during my stay but I wasn't stopping there at this moment. No, I was on a mission to make my way over to the Piazza San Marco, so off I went.

The quickest way to the Piazza San Marco from where I was to cross of the Ponte dell' Academia to walk from the Campo San Stefano onward to the square. When I got to the bridge I stopped to take in the view around me. The Ponte dell' Academia crosses over the Canale Grande linking Dorsoduro to the San Marco district. There are a lot of different ways to get down to the Piazza San Marco, it just depends on where you are in Venice. For me, this was the most direct route so I took it.

I made a point of stopping for an infusion of gelato on the way. It was incredibly hot so I ended up getting 3 scoops of gelato. I realized my error when the gelato started melting faster than I could eat it! I bought a litre of water as well and I decided to continue walking. You can tell you're getting closer to Piazza San Marco because you literally start going down. It's subtle but you can't help but notice it. It wasn't too much longer afterward however that I stepped thru two columns when I heard a rush of wings overhead. I looked around me and I saw the Piazza San Marco stretching out in all directions.

As I stepped from the shadow into the sunlight shining over the Piazza San Marco, I'm reminded of a quote by Douglas Adams who said, "I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be." It's at that moment I feel an overwhelming happiness take hold of me, and I smile to myself as I continue on my way thru the square.

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