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Published: August 23rd 2012
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Il Palio Di siena is the most disorganised, hectic, amazing, thrilling, confusing and wonderful event we have ever been to. Everyone should try to get to this festival because words cannot even begin to describe the emotions and experience of being here.The Italian calendar revolves around festivals and in Siena, their lives revolve around il Palio. Palio is a banner that each of the regions compete for. In Siena there are 17 regions and each is represented by an animal and different colours. Twice a year the regions enter a rider into a bareback horse race that takes place on the main piazza- piazza Di campo. Only 10 contrada can enter the race, 7 who didnt race last time and 3 others drawn at random. The race has very few rules, is very fast and dangerous for horses, riders and occasionally spectators.
Research had told us to be in the piazza at least 3 hours before the race started for 2 reasons, firstly to get a spot by the rails and secondly to see the parade which precedes the race. Once the parade has started there is only one entrance to the piazza and it can be hard to get
in. We had also read that we should park at the stadium or station as no cars are allowed in Siena.
As we neared the town we spotted parking with a bus ride to town. We weren't sure how far we were, so decided to continue heading for the station or stadium. Big mistake! We drove the whole way around the city getting more and more frustrated until eventually we navigated our way back to where we had been in the first place, parked the car and jumped on a bus. We wasted about an hour and were hot, grumpy and stressed by the time we got to the town.
Everyone was heading to the piazza area. The flags were flying all over the buildings and there was a lovely festive spirit. We went its the crowd and veered off at the last moment to find lunch at an osteria just near the piazza. The food was average, but filling. We drank the weirdest colour white wine we have ever seen. By the time we got to the piazza the rails were already taken. A truck was driving around the race track soaking it with water and periodically
soaking those at the rails. As it was so hot everyone was really enjoying this. They were also lining up to fill water bottles from taps near the fountain. The fountain is at the top of the piazza which is a fan shaped slope. We thought near the fountain was a good place to reserve a spot as we could see almost the whole track really well, there was a small amount of shade behind the fountain walls and we were near the water if we needed it. Somehow the time passed. Harriet and Fiona attempted to find a toilet as they were worried about being busting later. Toby guarded our spot whilst they navigated across the track and out of the piazza. There were no public toilets the lanes were packed and they bought a drink just to use a cafe toilet. It was worth it to allay the worry of the alternative.
Just before the parade some horsemen rode around the track. At first they were very sedate and then the last lap was a gallop. We caught a glimpse of what the race would be like and immediately the excitement and adrenaline mounted. Then the parade
started. Starting with the 10 regions competing today, each region paraded their horse and flag bearers around the track. It took an hour and a half for them all to go round. To start with it was interesting but then we realised each region performed the same flag throwing routine and it quickly became quite boring. The piazza was beginning to fill and some female tourists near us stood on the walls of the fountain. We realised that if they stayed there we wouldn't see the race and also we were in danger. If we couldn't see, the locals also wouldn't be able to see and that spelled trouble, even if it was just missiles to move the girls landing on us instead of them. We moved in front of the fountain. After Athens, Harriet didn't need to be in the way of any more fights. She has been quite wary and jumpy ever since.
The parade ended with bullocks pulling a chariot with what seemed to be the dignitaries of the town. Il Palio was at the front of the chariot and then hung on the wall at the top of the piazza. The crowd waved their scarves
as il Palio passed in front of them. They were all wearing their scarves to show who they were supporting. Winning il Palio means their region will be blessed for the year. It is a very religious event. All the contrada spent time in the morning being prayed for at their churches along with their horses. The parade starts from the cathedral where they all meet for mass before the race.
Even at this point people were still entering the piazza. In retrospect we realised we hadn't really needed to be in the searing heat waiting in the piazza so long. Arriving just before the parade would have been fine. But it hadnt been so bad with drinks and food and of course Harriet and Toby with their iPhones. They have discovered a learn Italian game and are being very competitive with each other and themselves. Harriet may have learnt more through this game than from school over the last 2 years! Harriet also thought it great fun watching everyone jump. Every hour, but not on the hour, a canon went off and without fail everyone was surprised. We have no idea what it was for.
At last
the racers came on to the track. Astonishingly the crowd started to shout shhh and the whole place went silent. The names of the regions were read out. We weren't a hundred percent sure what was happening but thought it was the order they were to line up. The last rider doesn't line up. When they are ready they gallop through the others and start the race. This is where the tension mounts and the fun begins. The start of the race can actually take longer than the race. If the horses move they all line up again. Today they lined up several times before the starter thought it was the right time for him to go, but at last they were off.
Fiona and Toby had spent a night in Siena in 2009 in the unicorn district, so we were shouting for the orange and white. The horses went really fast half way around the track. As they turned sharply into the downward section, there was a huge pile up and all but four riders fell. Ours was still in the race and the four continued alone. The race is three laps and by the final straight it
looked like the unicorn could take it but it wasn't to be. The race was so exciting. We were breathless, but some people were in tears. Others were ecstatic. In true European style, not a sedate and ordered British manner, random folk climbed on each other and grabbed down il Palio off the wall. It was paraded around with the winner and the winning region's supporters all followed singing a special song. The whole track was flooded with people. The celebrations continued for some time and then the winner was whisked off back to his church.
We waited for the piazza to clear a little and then headed off ourselves. Every cafe and bar along the route had a crowd gathered outside. They were watching the replays on the TV over and over. We grabbed a frozen yoghurt and watched it on TV too. There was a little tension at
one point between two people in the street, but it was quickly defused.As we walked to the car we walked through a region where the whole population seemed to be on the street. They were obviously passionately discussing where their contrada had gone wrong. They had a very sad look of defeat. It obviously means more
to them than any grand final.
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