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Published: February 27th 2018
We spent the past weekend homebound, as on Saturday we were recovering from our all-day outing to Agrigento the day before; and on Sunday the weather was positively wretched, with rain showers, wind and chilly temperatures throughout the day. So when we awoke to clear skies this morning, we were anxious to relieve our “cabin fever”. Our goal was to walk a section of Taormina we’d not yet explored, and then to stop by the tour agency office to see if it might be possible to arrange for a last-minute excursion to Mt. Etna before we leave. Unfortunately, the agency has not received enough reservations to satisfy its minimum requirements to conduct the tour.
Just below the Corso Umberto stands the 14th century Palazzo Duchi di Santo Stefano, a masterpiece of Sicilian gothic architecture, with characteristic elements from the Arab and Norman periods. Originally owned by a Spanish noble family, the palace was acquired by the municipality of Taormina in 1964, and now is the home of an artist’s foundation. This imposing square structure, which once served as part of Taormina’s defensive wall, is typical of an original Norman structure.
From the palazzo we walked back to Corso Umberto,
passing the former Convento di San Domenico. It was founded in 1374, and transformed into a hotel in 1896, the 40 cells of the former friars bring transformed into elegant rooms. Dee posed for a picture next to the massive seventeenth-century portal, where the emblem of the monastic order of the Dominicans is carved in marble. After passing through the lobby of the current hotel, you can see the cloister, with a square plan with seven arches, on each side, resting on 29 columns. Regrettably, the hotel is closed for the season, so we could not gain entry.
By this time it was nearing lunchtime, so we decided to try a little hole-in-the-wall near the Porta Messina, named the Franco Wine Bar. This cute little place is run by a sweet Italian lady, Maretta Concetta Carmela, who appeared to be well into her 70s (perhaps 80s). Although she spoke no English, we were able to communicate with her a little bit as she hovered around the six tables and small stand-up bar that fill the cramped quarters. We decided to try her panini sandwiches, made with bread she still bakes herself, and shared a cannolo for dessert. Our guess
was that she’s been operating this place, either by herself or with family, for her entire life. She graciously agreed to pose with us for a picture as we were leaving.
Dee had a sense of adventure after lunch, so we decided to take a public bus ride from the terminal to Giardini Naxos, the seaside village that lies below Taormina. Its principal claim to fame is that Naxos was the first Greek settlement in Sicily, dating back to 734 BC. Today, however, it is a tourist haven in the summer months, when hotels and restaurants are packed with sun worshippers who come here to enjoy the tiny beach and inviting waters of the Bay of Naxos. We have a fine view of Naxos from our apartment terrace, which is perched some 670 feet above sea level in Taormina.
A bus ride from Taormina down to Giardini Naxos, a distance of 7 miles by road, passes by lush vegetation, hairpin turns and stunning views of the sea below. The way in which buses, cars and small trucks negotiate the steep grades and tortuous curves is amazing; in some cases, one vehicle is forced to stop and back-up in
order to avoid a head-on collision!
We arrived at the end of the bus line in Naxos in 20 minutes, and then walked about 30 minutes before reaching the port and beach area. As we walked, we were struck by how deserted this resort is during the winter season. All of the shops, restaurants and vacation rentals were boarded-up tightly, and it was just by a stroke of good fortune that we discovered a restaurant/bar open by the port after we’d taken some photos of the fleet of small fishing boats scattered around a sandy area near the jetty. A very friendly waiter served us gins with Sprite soda, as no tonic water was to be had! Still, it was a much appreciated break before heading back to the bus stop.
While waiting for the return bus to Taormina, your blogger was forced to take extreme measures to avoid a bladder explosion. Those of you who recall the Seinfeld episode in the parking garage will understand my dilemma. In order to carry out the brazen act, I was forced to squeeze my ample girth between the fiberglass wall of a covered waiting bench enclosure, and a chain link
fence about a foot away. The fence and the opaque fiberglass wall provided good cover, but also a bunch of tangled brush, weeds and sticker bushes. However, desperate times call for desperate measures, so I wormed my way into the gap and let fly, while Dee acted as sentry. Apparently I managed to avoid detection, unless Google Earth captured the event for posterity.
Dee's comments: Today's adventures began with an old palazzo and ex-monastery, then a perfect lunch; loved the paninis and cannolo to die for; light drizzles on-and-off during the day; took the cheap local bus to Naxos, with scary roads and cliffs; town of Naxos deserted like the movie set of a ghost town; most everything closed for the winter; after making it to the beach, we did find a bar so Mitch could use the W/C; price was right for the gins we ordered (8 euros for 2 double shots); by the time we made it back to the bus terminal he had to go again (see his commentary, above, for the details of that experience - LOL).
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Jeni
non-member comment
When you gotta go, you do what you have to! Just be happy you’re not a female Mitch, imagine how much more difficult it would have been! ;) Naxos is beautiful. Loved the beware of dog sign!