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Published: October 15th 2014
The last blog was the first time I let Ross edit it ahead of time and he missed a big one. Left out Taormina and the steep climb - I completely left out the steepest walk. We had left San Giovanni de la Punta and we did head to Capri Leone but on the way we stopped at Taormina. I was excited because it has a great pedestrian walkway loaded with shops. We decided to do the walk UP to Castelmola first. After a climb of 200 stairs we got a good look ahead to where we were going. It was a small village perched atop a mini-mountain cliff. Straight up. We took much longer than the suggested time. Heat and breathing became the focus. The directions were this:
follow the old mule path as it ascends the N flank for about 1 km - join a narrow lane ascending steeply indicated with a walker's sign then follow this steeply uphill towards the steep crag of Castelmola after a B&B establishment turn hard right and continue steeply uphill as the lane soon gives way to a paved path that zigzags up the top
The writer of these directions was
correct - there is no other word except steep! Our reward was a wonderful lunch on a terrace looking at the spectacular view. Now down. The path was littered with pear cactus fruit and I think Sicily should concentrate on making some kind of liqueur out of that stuff. Mostly though we were concentrating on staying on the path. When we finally reached town we had to race straight through with not even a sideways glance at all the beautiful shops - and I'm not talking souvenir tourist stuff. We rushed so we didn't have to arrive in Capri Leone in the dark. Ha. By the time we walked to the parking - after asking everyone we passed where it was (and by the way this was instead of taking the free shuttle which zoomed past us several times on our car hunt) we had a 5 minute hunt for the lost parking ticket. We had just paid it on our way into the garage and when we reached the car it was gone. We emptied purses and pockets and Ross ran back up to the ticket booth and we searched the car (not easy with jammed luggage and bags).
Found it - in a shirt pocket so the driver had easy access to it. Hmm. Got to the autostrade (toll highway) in only 5 switchbacks and then raced to Capri Leone. The last 30 minutes were in total darkness and with unbelievable s turns for 6 km with cars roaring down on us as they hogged the road on the curves. Sicilians don't like to drive on their side of the road, they like to use the whole road and veer at the last second. They are all practising for the Indy 500. We arrived at a beautiful hotel and the porter saw us coming and whipped out a side door and whisked our bags to our room. I've never seen a man move suitcases so quickly and effortlessly up a flight of stairs. Made our dinner reservations there and settled in. (Albergo Antica Filanda - if you want to check it out).
On Sat. we all decided to do the 16 km Lake Biviere - grade1-2 hike rather than the 10 km Rocco del Crasto grade 2+ hike. Probably was a good choice but ... Not too many discussions this time to get to the trailhead and
maybe only a couple of stops to re-check the way . When we got to the start the British foursome we have met on this trip were just starting out as well. They'd left well ahead of us but they very wisely stopped at a deli truck along the road on the way up (yes up - all hikes are up - that's the meaning of the word hike). We started the walk with them for the first hour. They carried on (that's what Brits do) while we stopped for photos, pee breaks etc - anything to give us a rest. It was hot. It was up and down, wooded at times and generally an interesting walk if we hadn't been on an actual road. In Sicily it is porcini mushroom picking time. There were all kinds of cars passing us on the single road paved with dirt-packed stone. We came to a marvellous viewpoint but still had another 1.5 km to the lake. Lake was nice - the Brits were there finishing their lunch of wine and deli sandwiches. We pulled out our bag of nuts and water and sat down to eat. I gloried in the new foldable
chair I've been carting on my backside for every hike and finally got to use; I did a sketch and then back we went. The way back was slogging not walking. Saw lots of wild black pigs but really didn't care by this time. Heat and uphill. When we were about 10 football fields from our car I sent Ross ahead to go get it and come and get me - tired of seeing cars go by us and the sun was slowly moving to the horizon. J&D had turned around before the lake so I figured they were already at the car and I didn't want to hold anyone up. Good reasons right. He finally got to me when I was only 4 football fields away from the car. For some reason Ross thinks I can picture or understand the actual measurement by talking football fields. I've never practised walking football fields. How about how many times around Park Royal mall for example. Anyway we did get back to the hotel in time for a shower before our 8:30 dinner. Mealtimes here are late - lunch isn't until 3 or 4 and dinner is around 9.
It was
a Tony Soprano breakfast on Sunday. There had been a wedding on Sat. and the hotel was busy with family members who had stayed over. Tony (don't know his real name but he looked like him and had the same mannerisms) sat in the dining room and and everyone who came in either shook his hand or gave him the double cheek kiss. He happily kept watch over the room. We were the only non-family members and I was beginning to feel I had to go over and pay my respects. Once Ross got up to go get some more bread and Tony spoke to him and offered him some kind of jam - Ross quickly took it and came back grinning. Soon a very elderly gentleman came in and the respect thing started all over with him. There were about 30 family members milling about. While I had my second cappuccino I looked out the window and there was one of the dads showing his teenager how to put the magazine in the gun - a real gun. The kid just calmly put it in his backpack. Next came the suits. Two black suited guys with sunglasses on came
in the door and just stood by the door. I was ready to duck under the table at any time as soon as I finished my cappuccino. Then everyone slowly dispersed and we left. Packed the car and off to Siracusa.
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