Piedmont Undiscovered Val Di Susa

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In The Name Of the Rose is one of my favourite books by Umberto Eco made into a decent film starring Sean Connery.

Now you might be thinking why I am talking about books and films when I am supposed to be discussing Piedmont and the Val di Susa.

Well the reason is simple. If the sinister monastery seen in the film appeals, then here you will find something just like it. Not the actual one used in the film - the exterior of which was actually a mock up - but this monastery is to all intents and purposes the place. In fact it is so special I have devoted a separate section to it.

Now getting back to the rest of the Val di Susa. The ideal way to tour this area is to follow the steps of those medieval pilgrims heading for Gaul. Start from Turin as they did and head for Rivoli, the first stop on this road and the gateway to the Val di Susa. Rivoli is home to the fabulous Museum of Modern Art, housed in one of the castles belonging to the Savoy Royal Family.


The two lakes of Avigliana are the major attractions for those spending the day from Turin and the restaurants along the shore are all of decent quality. The lakes both form part of the Lakes of Avigliana National Park and the area is popular with bird watches - I am not much of a bird watcher so can’t really add too much here, other than saying that it is apparently a good place to see the Germani Reali.
I have no idea what a Germani Reali is in English or even Italian but an Italian bird watching friend tells me you can see one here if you are interested. Is it worth a trip from abroad to see this bird? Even with the cheap flights to Turin these days I wouldn’t bother but, well, my friend tells me it is and people come from all over to see them.


The Val di Susa also has a lot of great castles. Some of great one are the Castle of Conte Verde in Condove and the Castle Borello near Bussoleno. The best though is the Castle known as the Forte di Exiles Next on the Val di Susa/ Piedmont tour must be the city of Susa -the biggest city in the valley but still only a small town. Susa has a few interesting sites - most notable is the eleventh century cathedral of San Giusto, the Roman era city gate in piazza San Giusto and the Roman baths.

Last stop on the tour is Chiomonte. I spend a lot of time here because our best friends, Guido and his wife and son, have their weekend house up here. This is a lovely little town on the train line from Turin/Torino and right on the French border.

The town is a great place to get away from it all for a long weekend either in winter or summer. Susa Valley There is little better than drinking a glass of Barolo, in front of a raging fire, and looking out of Guido’s panoramic window at the snow on the surrounding mountain peaks. In summer it is just as great, a lovely griglia or BBQ on the lawn. Guido make the worlds best red and green peppers, aubergines and sausages on a BBQ. Wash that all down with a good glass of the finest red wine from Piedmont an

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