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Published: June 11th 2010
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Ciao a tutti!
I've been WWOOFing in Perledo which is on the East shore of Lake Como (yes, where George Clooney has a house), above Varenna. It's incredibly beautiful, as you can see. This farm is much like my favorite in Rivalta in that they grow fruits, vegetables, and has chickens for eggs which they sell at markets. However, they also make honey and olive oil, only sell at the local market, and the land and family are quite different from what I'm used to.
This area is ancient. Really, really old. So old that Gigi can't even tell me how old. And everything here is ancient: the houses, the paths, the land, the trees, and many people. You can't even drive to the house. In a city it might be called dirty and decaying, but in the country it's charming and historical. You have to park and then walk on cobblestones weaving your way through other houses. There's an ancient cobblestone path that goes all the way around the lake and branches off in various places so that there are an infinite number of incredible hikes that can be started from the doorstep. I haven't been in a
Path
Part of the ancient path wrapping around the lake. car the whole time I've been here, but I also get lost all the time. It's like Cinque Terre with the incredible mountain and water views and the ability to hike to all the towns, only with a lot fewer tourists. The house is like the Weasleys' house in Harry Potter. I can't tell you how many rooms or floors it has and I still don't know where is begins or ends and another house starts. I discover a new room or way to a room every day. Every part is tilting a bit in a different direction and Gigi can't tell me how old the house is either. I'm guessing close to 1000 years and the same for my bed (although I always sleep well, despite the noise and hardness). The house, along with the land, has been passed down through families and consequently the land is spread out in pieces all over this town. You go one way fro the chickens, and another for the garden, another for the cherries and strawberries, and there are olive trees scattered everywhere.
Work
Farm work is satisfying work. It's so real and useful. On a typical day, I get
My House (as seen from the castle)
The one in the middle with the kiwi vines over the balcony, although I think it also includes what's attached to it on the left...but I can't be sure. up at 7, start working around 7:30 or 7:45, finish at noon, start again at 5:30, and finish again at 7:30. Saturday afternoon and all of Sunday are free. Various jobs I've done: pick cherries and strawberries, sort cherries and strawberries, prune lemon trees, apply fungus to the roots of olive trees, take honey from the bees, cut and dry rosemary, weed onions, fill jars for the market, tile a roof, and probably more but I can't remember. The work here seems more laborious because it always involves walking up and down lots of steps or working on a steep hill or ladder or roof or something dangerous. But I enjoy it thoroughly. I love eating when I'm really hungry, washing when I'm really dirty, sleeping when I'm really tired, and doing something so useful.
I've never seen so many pest problems in Italy, though. Everywhere else I've been, I can see why they grow organically- because there's really no reason not to with the lack of insect problems. But here the cherries are not so beautiful, and many have worms inside. There are snails everywhere, especially after rain. But, they manage well enough, selling the perfect produce and
Cherry Picking
Good thing I'm not afraid of heights... using the damaged goods for the family and to make jams and juice. That cherry jam is going to really high in protein with those worms...Although today I started picking from a different tree and they are much more beautiful. Still, they pale in beauty and taste compared to those in Rivalta.
Another product I must mention is propoli. I think I've heard of it in the US, but this was my first experience drinking it, using it on the skin, and taking it from the bees. Gigi says it's the gem of the flower, the part that never dies and heals all, and therefore it heals all human ailments. But I'm fairly certain it's bee spit and shit. When I had a headache I was told to drink it. When I had a sore throat, I was told to drink it. I was cured, so maybe bee waste is good medicine. All I know that that it's brown and sticky and acts like glue and is found in the corners of the bee box thing that holds the combs. One way they prepare it is with olive oil and a touch of alcohol and it looks like diarrhea.
Canyon
A short hike from the house. I'm sure if I was a serious climber, I would love to give it a try. Therefore, bee shit.
Italian Nature
I'm all for "pristine" nature, but there's something possibly even more magical about an area that has been used but not destroyed by humans for hundreds of years. You can see the resiliency of nature and feel the history in the stones. I always thought of Europe as lacking nature, and although I'm sure there are few if any "pristine" places, it's full of beautiful forest, path, mountains, views, etc. During my free time I've been doing a lot of hiking- to the castle, to other towns, to the rocks where Gigi said it's easily to climb and I gave it a try and then decided I didn't want to die alone in a canyon. Now if I hike to a town I don't even go into the town. I'm just hiking for the hike. I'm not into being a tourist this time around. I haven't set foot inside a church. I did go to a Monestary Villa in Varenna, and that's enough. I'm getting back into shape, which is good, but going down hill almost destroyed my right knee. It's better now, so I need to stop being lazy and go exploring
Castello
View from the castle that you can see in a previous picture. more.
Italian Views
If you've noticed, it seems that everywhere I got in Northern Italy, there is an amazing view. I think that's a big part of why I love this part of the country. This view in particular, the one from the balcony of the house, makes me want to fly. And it makes me think I could fly if I wanted it to. And when I come back to reality I know that I could walk to all those towns and mountains I see across the lake if I felt like it, and that's still a good feeling. The weather has gone downhill since the first few days, but it's still beautiful. When there were only a few clouds in the sky, they would move and change so fast that I could watch the sky for hours and never get bored. Now I only want to hike up because I want more views, but it's hard to beat the view from the castle, and even the house.
I'll try to write again soon. I still have to cover food, families, people, language, driving, and animals...
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crazy lady
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Wow
Sara, what a wonderful experience u are having. The beauty of Italy in every area is hard to believe. But I also have seen some up north. The picture of Villa Monastero looks almost identical to the one I took of Lake Salo. Grandpa and I just watched a long video on PBS about northern and southern Italy and Sicily. Much of the film was taken by air and all the red tile roofs were so vivid. Just back from Montreal and Ottawa with Ken and Drew, then returned Tues from Jerry's for Jason and Carissa's wedding reception. Will show u pictures when(if) u return. Love and hugs.