Advertisement
Published: July 11th 2011
Friday, July 8, 2011
Lazy Day My morning began late with a cappuccino and a chocolate croissant. The tourist crowd was not as extreme as it had been when I arrived yesterday afternoon. The beach was already populated with sun bathers and tiny naked children running amuck. Being in a beach town was so different than any of the cities I had visited so far. It was relaxed, made evident by the fact that most people wore very little clothing and flip flops all day, a stark contrast to Milano’s high fashion demands. I liked the lazy attitude. This was a vacation town, and everyone was enjoying it.
Internet Café The internet point in town is on the main street. I uploaded a couple days’ worth of blogs and photos and checked my email. The girl working there was an ex-patriot from Texas who had fallen in love with a local man during her study abroad and married him. While I worked on the computer, several people asked about her story, and I wondered how many times a day she had to repeat it. I also wondered if, even though the relationship ended in marriage, this was an example
of why Italian men assume all American women are looking for amore.
Monterosso The busiest of the five towns is Monterosso. It has better vehicle access, making it a destination for tour groups to stop for the afternoon. When I got into town, I had to fight upstream against the tide of grey haired cruise ship patrons making their way back to their buses. It was comical to see everyone wearing a colored and numbered sticker on their shirt, so they wouldn’t forget what bus to get on.
The town is divided into two sections, new and old, connected by a tunnel. New town didn’t offer much besides hotels and a couple cafes. Old town featured a ton of little shops, all offering about the same thing. I purchased a long white skirt from one of the vendors. It felt breezy and would be of great use in notoriously sweltering Florence.
I was amazed at how industrial the beach was. Most of the space was for rent, with only a couple free beach sites. Rows and rows of umbrellas lined the water. The surf was great for kids, but the beach was made up of pebbles and
not sandy at all. Walking barefoot would have the same effect as walking on the beaches of inland Puget Sound.
No Beach Today When I got back to my room, I rested a moment from my Everest-like experience climbing the stairs and then set about getting ready for the beach. People were out until nearly sunset yesterday, and an afternoon dip would feel great. I put on my swim suit, look in the mirror, and took off my swim suit. Today was not my day.
Lemon and Blossom Liquor Before dinner time, my host knocked on my door to ask if I could settle up the bill before he and his wife took off for their holiday. Then I was treated to their homemade limoncello and blossom liquor. The limoncello like pesto, is a regional specialty. It was very tasty, and a source of pride for the couple. Giacopo and I chatted about the rooms he and Maria rent, their upcoming vacation, and the little terrace garden they have up in the hills above town. He gave me a tomato from their garden, which I devoured as soon as I got back to my room. It was delicious,
as are all tomatoes fresh picked.
Dinner with Friends The smell of the food drew me out to the many restaurants in the piazza, and I randomly selected one for dinner. I was seated next to two ladies who were speaking a foreign language I of course didn’t understand. We ordered at about the same time, and then struck up conversation. Anniken and Ella were both from Norway and spoke nearly perfect English. We chatted all the way through dinner about a whole range of topics. Heath care, religion, travel, occupations, cultural stereotypes, the sad state of Americans’ concept of the rest of the world, and so on. They were absolutely fabulous dinner companions. We exchanged information before we parted for the evening. I hope to continue contact with them; it would be fun to know someone in Oslo when I visit there.
Evening Stroll After 10:30pm, the main piazza belongs to the locals. A few foreign stragglers remain, arguing over train schedules or consuming gelato. The space in front of the church becomes a soccer field for elementary aged boys, their parents and grandparents sitting on the benches catching up on the day’s events. Earlier a stage
Monterosso
Umbrellas as far as the eye can seewas set up in the piazza, and the little girls twirl and dance like they are professional ballerinas. The tables at the cafes are commandeered by groups of old men playing cards and more groups of locals chatting away. I strolled up the main walk to the train station and back, but all the action was at the waterfront. I passed an old man holding a little dog and talking to it like it was his little bambino. It is very easy to see why people give up their lives and move to Vernazza. It’s completely small town, intimate and inviting.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.241s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 13; qc: 58; dbt: 0.1029s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
