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The Etruscans
While almost all the passengers got up at the crack of dawn and headed to Rome for a 10 hour day, I opted for the path less traveled. Our bus took us through the port city and out into the countryside. Fields of lavender and gorse were interspersed with fields plowed and planted. The soil look rich and fertile. So beautiful.
Our first stop was the Etruscan Necropolis where a small portion has been excavated, just enough to understand the burial procedure of these ancient Italians. Our guide today was obviously knowledgeable but had a thick accent and with my hearing I only got a sparse phrase hear and there, usually, “6th century before Christa”. This was way before Roman times.
Although the signage was in Italian, the site itself was self explanatory. Each gravesite was covered with a large mounds of soil. Beneath was an ornate tomb, decorated by frescoes depicting the life of the deceased. The more adventurous descended the steep stairs to examine the tomb first hand. I, on the other hand chicken out, fearing I would fall on the old worn steps.
There were a dozen or so tombs open for visitors but it is estimated that more then 2,000 are there still there, resting in peace. Off in the distance on a hilltop covered in trees is the village where the Etruscans lived. The civilization was eventually absorbed by the Romans but while it existed it was culturally vibrant and artistic.
From the graveyard we rode to the little town of Tarquinia to visit the Etruscan Museum. Housed in an old palace, the artifacts were displayed in the salons that all emptied onto a balcony that overlooked the central piazza. The very first exhibit was of a tomb. It showed the bench wee the deceased was laid out, and some of the most delicate pieces of pottery I have ever seen. There was the remnants of a iron chariot wheel and a skull at the head of the bench. Though I couldn’t read the description, I surmise that this is how the tomb looked when it was discovered. Outside the palace, different banners were hung from the fence. It seems that the next day there would bee a horse race in the town and the banners represent
the neighborhoods participating. The festival goes back to the Middle Ages. Would haves really loved to see that.
From the palace we headed to a farm. This was a little oasis in the middle of an industrial area but once inside the grounds you would never know. We were treated to a lovely snack of toasted home baked bread. Some slices were topped with yummy olive oil. There was a lovely broccoli frittata and samples of their honey, jams and jellies. They also served the best tapenade I have ever tasted. And don’t forget the wine, a lovely red and a not so lovely white as well as water. A veritable feast.
And that ends my excursions until we disembark in Barcelona. I had visited the last three ports and decided to enjoy next days as sea days.
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