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Published: October 29th 2006
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It's amazing to think that we were walking around a city with more than 2500 years of history. Old ruins stand next to modern, present-day buildings, cafes line every street, and scooters zip in, out, and around traffic. There are fountains, monuments, or columns at every turn. You can never get bored in this city as there is always something to see and explore.
We missed our first train in the entire trip by mere seconds as we tried to connect to Rome from Cinque Terre. Our train was late to arrive as was the ongoing train to Rome. We ran to buy tickets and "Amazing Race-d" it back to the platform only to see it chugging away around the bend and out of sight. But, two hours later, we were on our way to Rome and arrived to beautiful, hot, and sunny weather.
Our first stop on our Roman tour was the famous Colosseum, originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. I was pretty surprised and impressed by how well in tact it is considering that it was begun in AD 72 and built with the cheapest materials available during those days--brick. We walked in to one of the
oldest fighting grounds in history. Where gladiators fought. Where gladiators died. And where emperors used these 'games' as a means of political influence. What we saw was the underground of the battlefield comprising many rooms and hallways that provided housing for the animals and secret passages/entrances for the gladiators. Seating 70,000 spectators, the Colosseum was sectored with wooden seats for the peasants in the upper deck and marble ones for the more noble and important people/families. On fight days, a parade would be held leading to the Colosseum and during their lunchtime break many performances would be held, such as plays and jugglers. People would show up more for the detailed sets than the actual gladiator duels. At times, an unarmed actor would be thrown into the pit with lions hidden in the set and gnawed to pieces. Other times, gladiators themselves took on the challenge with or without their blade and shield. After these performances, the audience would belt out their desires for the gladiator to live or die during the featured gory gladiatorial and wild beast shows.
Next to the Colosseum is the huge Arch of Constantine, built to honor Constantine following his victory over his rival
Colosseum
The peasant view Maxentius in 312. On the other side lies the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. This was the ancient Roman commercial, political, and religious center. We walked up to Palatine Hill where the wealthy Romans and emperors built their houses and explored the ruins. Walking more towards the center of the Forum we experienced the 'center city' of Roman life--temples, treasury, where Caesar was burned, where Mark Anthony read his famous speech, and where the laws and decisions of that time were made.
Our second day consisted of the famous Pantheon used as a temple in ancient Rome. Not too big, but impressive nonetheless. Its enormous dome is open in the center for the rain to fall inside. Two Italian emperors and painter Raphael are buried here. On our walk through Rome we also visited the Trevi Fountain and followed the custom of throwing a coin into the fountain with our backs facing it to ensure our return to Rome. A second toss grants you a wish. We also visited the oval Piazza Navona where Romans used to have chariot races. It features Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers fountain, his masterpiece. We later ventured out at night to check
Roman Forum
'Center City' ancient Rome out the illuminated Capitoline Hill and Colosseum. It was just as impressive as it is by day.
The following day we visited two impressive churches, Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano, en route to catacombs outside of center city Rome at Saint Sebastian Church, home of Saint Sebastian and famous for the temporary hiding place of the bodies of Peter and Paul. We were guided through only a small section of the 7.5 miles of cold and damp tunnels that twisted and turned through the ground. The many layers that existed used to contain around 70,000 corpses--Christians, Jews, Pagans, etc and date to 1 BC. One of the most fascinating parts of the tour were 3 small chapels located under the church that were originally built on ground level. The church was actually built on top of them as they became covered and hidden centuries later. Parts of the wall are also original and still remain
Wanting to sample some true Italian delicacy we ventured out to Trastevere, a small neighborhood known for its traditional eateries. We absolutely could not leave Italy without dining at an outside table in a filled square on a Saturday night.
Trevi Fountain
"returning to Rome" How could we not. I mean, when in Rome... We sat elbow to elbow practically sharing a table with another couple inhaling their second-hand smoke as they continuously lit up. We decided that we had to splurge a bit--mostly because we needed real food and we were dying to sample some Italian cusine. Well, our meal was ruined as I spotted a maggot just before I was about to delve into my dish. But things turned out for the better as we walked to the next square and enjoyed a better atmosphere with various entertainers and delicious food to top it off.
Our final day in Rome was a long one. One that reminded me too much of the earlier days of our trip when we had gung-ho attitudes and were determined to do and see everything that the city had to offer. We walked and stood in line for hours as the Holy Father, Pope Benedict, took up more of our time on this journey. Nine hours simply wasn't enough when we saw him in Germany. We visited the smallest country in the world, Vatican City, on Sunday. He was due to give his biweekly speech from a
window high above the crowd gathering in St. Peter's Square. Well, apparently, the Pope is still drawing huge numbers and we waited in line for two hours just to enter the Vatican Museum. After going through the maze of long and crazily decorated and adorned hallways, rooms, and former papal apartments, we made our way to the Sistine Chapel and were in complete awe. It truly has some unbelievable paintings. The ceiling is completely covered in Michelangelo's Last Judgement and Creation paintings. You know, the famous painting of two index fingers barely touching one another. And the walls were magnificently done by Botticelli and Signorelli.
Next was a visit to the overcrowded St. Peter's Square. It was filled with holy revellers waiting for the Pope to appear at the window. We took advantage of this to cut the lines (although we still waited) and climb to the dome of St. Peter's Basilica. After an initial set of stairs to the roof there was another that literally follows the curved shape of the dome. The walls narrowed and angled inward as we ascended and the width of the steps diminished with every step. At times, we were forced to climb
Vatican City
Inside the Vatican Museum with our bodies angled to the right. But the climb was well worth it as it provided incredible views of Rome, especially St. Peter's Square. Too bad our camera batteries died and the backups somehow didn't work. We did manage, however, to get some bad quality shots on the video camera though.
We then descended into the Basilica and were speechless. Absolutely awestruck. It is indeed the most impressive church I've ever seen. Various popes are laid to rest in glass coffins and it includes numerous side chapels, enormous sculptures, paintings, frescoes, and is highlighted by the high dome and famous four-columned altar. Religious scenes are also painted on all of the ceilings and on the high parts of the walls.
We finished up Rome with a quick walk through Piazza del Popolo and down the shopping street to the Piazza di Espagna and the Spanish steps where hordes of people were relaxing on the ever-so-popular steps and enjoying the fountain reportedly done by Bernini's father. It is in this square that many people would gather with dreams of becoming artists' models.
We'll never forget our numerous pizzas and gelati, some better than others, and we'll see
if the Fountain superstition holds true in the years to come.
Next Up: Cyclades, Greece
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Joe Neal
non-member comment
Maggots and no pictures
Ry, Great dinner of second hand smoke and maggots! (What do you think of that -Brett?) We dont have smoking in dinners or bars in NJ anymore. Also, your pictures did not come thru. Stay healthy and enjoy the last of the trip! Dad