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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 42.1299, 12.1727
Apologies for lack of entries in the last few days, but the Internet here is not particularly user-friendly, so here we go...
Monday morning we left Assisi with our friendly Milanese neighbours waving us off on what we thought would be a relatively straightforward transfer to our next stop on Lake Bracciano. We got to within a few miles of the lake on a mixture of motorway and minor roads, the condition of the latter leaving a lot to be desired being rutted and potholed in many places. Using the guidelines for the final approach as given in the ACSI and Caravan Club sites handbooks, on reaching the lakeside we followed signs for Bracciano, taking us in a clockwise direction through a number of small villages and towns. The book gave no indication of how to get through or around Bracciano itself in order to reach Camping Roma Flash located a mile beyond so we carried on following signs for the town and soon ended up in the middle which was cobbled, narrow and busy being midday. Once through the middle, sat nav was taking us down towards the lake, but being unsure of where this would lead us, opted
to try and get up on to the higher main road, but we had to negotiate a number of parked cars, tight bends before eventually once clear of the town we arrived at the site feeling fraught and after much swearing from the driver.
After a stroll around the site, we opted for one of the sunnier pitches rather than under the trees nearer the lakeside which appear very dark, besides several were occupied by families with children being extremely noisy at the time.
Once pitched and set up, it was time to relax. The pitches are quite small, but thankfully the pitches around us have not been taken, so it feels quite spacious and is convenient for the showers. We did, however, have to move the car from an empty neighbouring pitch when confronted by the rather officious site owner, but we had already read about her on a review, so her card is marked!
Tuesday afternoon we went in search of a supermarket in order to stock up. Since we had not spotted any as we arrived (hardly surprising given the hassle we had), we consulted the sat nav and set off for the nearest only to find that it was
shut down. David then stopped to ask a policewoman who set us off with directions of a sort, but to no avail as we found ourselves going out of the town so turned around. Deciding to give up and go back to the site, we came across signs for a supermarket. Following one after the other, we eventually came to a building, not with the plate glass frontage usually associated with supermarkets these days, but graffiti covered concrete. We very nearly drove on thinking this one too had succumbed to the vandals and shut down, but spotted trolleys and a side door. Though small, we pretty much got what we needed and left as soon as we could. (I think David was concerned about the car!)
This seems to sum up the difference between this and the other areas of Italy we have visited so far - the great north/south divide, richer vs. poorer.
One of the reasons for choosing this location was its proximity to Rome which was on our wish list of places to see during the trip. After considering how best to achieve this, we booked on to the weekly day excursion from the site organised by a holiday company of young people from Holland occupying the tented area, which included a morning guided walk.
Wednesday, we continued to relax given that the weather was settled with a forecast of wall-to-wall sunshine. David got withdrawal symptoms and did a circumnavigation of the lake on his bike (bit much for me) and came back with reports of places to see before we leave.
Thursday (yesterday) we did Rome, though after overnight rain and distant thunder, we had not slept well by the time the alarm went off at 6.00. After shower, breakfast and much deliberation about what to wear, we set off for the 'eternal city' at 8.00. The route taken by the coach showed us the road we ought to have taken on the day of our arrival along the lakeside, completely avoiding the town centre so we now know where to go when moving on next week.
Due to heavy traffic, the journey took longer than the anticipated one hour to the city centre, where the coach was met by Magdalena, our guide for the morning, With her magic wand (a shiny chrome pointer with a pink bow on the top) held aloft we followed her to the first stop - the Trevi fountain. I was unprepared for its proportions as it came into view, since it is huge and completely dominates the small square. We did the touristy thing and both threw our coins into the water along with the busy crowds, so who knows, we might just visit Rome again in our lifetimes.
Moving on, we stopped off to view three works by Caravaggio in a small church which were amazing - such a unique style and talent to capture the moment and the affect of light. Must read up about him when I get a moment (I did History of Art at school, so it is great to see such an abundance of famous works in such a short time).
At the Pantheon, the completeness of such an ancient structure after all this time is mind-blowing, not to mention the skills to design and construct it, right down to the under floor drainage system that takes away any rain that comes in from the overhead opening in the dome.
Next on the route was Piazza Navona, with yet more fountains. This square was busy with artists selling their work. Moving on through the narrow streets, we arrived at the Spanish Steps where after an explanation of their history and significance, Magdalena took her leave and we were left to our own devices.
At a nearby restaurant, over lunch of pasta, ice cream and red wine, we deliberated about what to do next and it basically boiled down to Colosseum vs. Vatican City. We opted for the latter since the Sistine Chapel is nearby and another must-see in my book, though I did not force my case, you understand. Having thrown those coins in that fountain, we might, just might, have another bite of the cherry.
We took the Metro in the direction of the Vatican City, then walked the final approach to St. Peter's Square bombarded by tour guides offering to fast track us to the sights to avoid the queues (at a cost, of course) but we brushed them off with the excuse that we were on a tight schedule. Once there, there was indeed a queue for the Basilica, but since it appeared to be moving quite quickly we decided to go for it and were inside within about half an hour (several people commented on the unusual absence of crowds in Rome on the day).
Wow! Everything about this structure is huge - the dimensions, sculptures, mosaics, spaces - and no expense spared in decoration. One of the most prized exhibits is the Michelangelo's Pieta which is surprisingly small by comparison to all around it but draws huge crowds and is now on display behind glass panels after it was defaced back in the 70s. Amazing to think that the sculptor was just 25 when he created it - such talent. By comparison, the 13th century bronze of St. Peter has to my mind quite a modern style to it. It is still a most popular attraction for you can see that his foot has been worn thin from the millions of tourist-pilgrims who have passed by to touch him over the centuries.
Back out into the sunshine, we walked across the Square and round to the museum, only to find that it had closed at 4.00, so sadly we did not get to see the Sistine Chapel after all. Perhaps those coins in the fountain might remedy that.
We took the Metro back to the Spanish Steps, climbed to the top to admire another view of the Rome skyline, getting accosted by traders trying their best to get you to accept a 'free' lucky red rose so they can then pester you for money. I came home without one!
After strolling a little longer, we made it back to the coach rendezvous point in good time to start the journey back to the relative peace and quiet of Camping Roma Flash, a bit of supper, shower and then bed in the knowledge that we had at least done Rome in a fashion.
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Helen
non-member comment
I bet you both had sore feet, well done both touring Rome in one day is quite something. I'm loving the blog and the style your are writing in its great fun.