Fruili- Zegliacco, a hilltop castle under the Dolomites


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Published: June 16th 2011
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A constant reminderA constant reminderA constant reminder

The original work was damaged in the earthquake and now is central to the memorial in the church. These locals were remembering that day - you could tell.
At the foot of the Juliaen Prealps, on Via Augustus that connected Aquileia with Norienna (Austria), Fruili is a series of fortified towns dating from Roman times. Lombards came from Norway through the central plains of Europe in the 5th century, settled and controlled the area until its was annexed to the Republic of Venica in 1420, fell under Austrian rule in 1798, belonged to France for a short time and oscillated between Austria & Italy until annexed by Italy in 1866. What about Yugoslavia, just over the lesser hills?

The people mostly speak their own language, Fruileano, rather than Italian and many don't move far from the village in which they were born. That is, apart from all those Fruili folks who emigrated to Australia in the 60's.

Our friends live in Gemona del Fruili and they have made us very welcome as we have tried to communicate in some sort of pidgin Anglo/Italio/Fruilio language with a lot of gesticulating thrown in. I now now why Col waves his arms around all the time ( take note Brent), it is because of his Italian ancestors.

At 9pm on May 6, 1976 an earthquake of 6.4 was centered
The new crucifixThe new crucifixThe new crucifix

above the reconstructed nave of the Duomo
on Gemona. Whilst the first quake only lasted 57 seconds, 989 were killed, 2400 were injured and 157000 were homeless in Gemona alone. Most villages in the area received significant damage to houses and historic buildings, particularly their cathedrals, churches and castles. The cost to rebuild was estimated at $2.4 billion. Gemona is now seen as a tribute to the rebuilding as they faithfully renovated, rebuilt and recreated the buildings and homes of the city. It is now very beautiful with constant reminders of the earthquake everywhere.

We drove many hundreds of km's on rural and mountain roads, visiting hilltop towns like Gemona with its beautifully restored Duomo, Profferbo hanging off the side of a mountain and Raveo on a mountain that rises from 300 to 2064 mts above sea level, with many hairpin bends to get there. Amongst others we visited: San Daniele the home of Italy's premier proscuitto, Spilimbergo with the world famous Mosaic School founded in 1922, Cividale the old Roman capital with its Lombard Baptistery of Callisto and the 8th century Altar of Ratchis and Venzona with it's double walls and narrow streets.

Trieste is a beautiful city and one we will remember. We
Gemona DuomoGemona DuomoGemona Duomo

Look at the lean on the columns - result of the earthquake
drove in and before we did the tourist spots in town we took a tram ( cog assisted) up to the top of the hills and back again. It gave us a birdeye view of Trieste and it's beautiful setting.

We are leaving Fruili now and will finish our Italian trip by going to Ravenna (San Appolliniare in Classe), to Padova ( Screvegni Chapel with it's Giotto frescoes) and then Venice for the Biennale. Then off to London for family time with Barry and Phil and famlies. What a way to finish a lovely adventure.


Additional photos below
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View from the gateView from the gate
View from the gate

Our castle in the background. It was damaged in the earthquake, repaired and is now apartments
Sculptures in the castleSculptures in the castle
Sculptures in the castle

We have a number of interestign and quirky sculptures around
Mountain pathMountain path
Mountain path

They tell of partisans up here during the war and when you see these tracks it is easy to imagine!!
What a way to get to the topWhat a way to get to the top
What a way to get to the top

The GPS took us this way - up the Buje mountain and even up the stairs!
FRICOFRICO
FRICO

A cheese and potato dish popular in Fruili
The mountain cottageThe mountain cottage
The mountain cottage

Ale's family took us there
One hairpin bendOne hairpin bend
One hairpin bend

At 100 I stopped counting one day when we were out driving
The GPS viewThe GPS view
The GPS view

This gives some indication of what it was like.
Trieste tramTrieste tram
Trieste tram

This gadget connected the tram to the cogs and pulled us up and down the steepest incline
Trieste CathedralTrieste Cathedral
Trieste Cathedral

First mosaics- can't wait until Ravenna.
Trieste and along the coastTrieste and along the coast
Trieste and along the coast

From the castle battlements
Trieste canalTrieste canal
Trieste canal

So much water in the region - apart from Venice there are canals and rivers all along the coast.


17th June 2011

Italy
Hey, another great blog! You have some really interesting pics and yet more ideas of places for us to visit.

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