Chapter 13: Pompeii - Titter ye not!!!

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Chapter 13

Up Pompeii - Titter ye not!!!

A most excellent breakfast was consumed, finally a positive. They headed to Stazione Garribaldi where they caught the circumvensia to Herculaneum. A kind of over-ground underground, extremely cheap but had seen better days, the circumvensia connected Naples to Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast. As they alighted at Herculaneum station, they were immediately mobbed by taxi drivers offering to take them up to Mount Vesuvius and back for 10 euros each. The bus only cost 4 euros so once more they politely refused and headed for the ruins of Herculaneum. Eighteen euros for a combined ticket which included Pompeii and four other sights. Just down the road from the station they arrived at the gates of Herculaneum.

Tourist Site 17: Herculaneum

History: With Vesuvius brooding on the horizon any visit to the Bay of Naples area should include a visit to Herculaneum. It is unjustly less famous than its bigger brother Pompeiii as the state of preservation of the buildings are generally much superior. It was lost to sight during the same series of eruptions that destroyed Pompeiii but was possibly destroyed by a pyroclastic flow as much of the timber has survived in a charred condition giving a much better idea of what a Roman town may have looked like. Herculaneum was originally discovered when a well was being dug in the early 18th Century at a depth of 50 - 60 feet below the modern surface.

Initially a series of ‘robber’ shafts and tunnels were dug to strip the site of any saleable valuables. In the 20th Century, archaeological excavations re-commenced on a more modern and scientific basis fully uncovering a small section of the town but it was found that the earlier tunnelling had damaged the structure of much of the surviving buildings. The site is also suffering from exposure to the elements and the periodic earth tremors, so there is a constant battle to try and preserve the remains. Recent archaeological work at the site has rediscovered potentially one of the greatest treasure houses of contemporary Roman knowledge. The Villa of the Papyri was initially thought to contain unreadable charred scrolls, fused into solid lumps when it was originally excavated in the 18th Century. It was found that using various techniques some of the scrolls could be eased open and at least part of their contents read

Martin’s comments: Hercules was said to have founded the place in AD79, though this has not been substantiated. When Vesuvius erupted, the whole town was covered in mud and lava. The new town needs a similar fate today, a most unpleaseant, traffic jammed hole. The ruins from above give a rather false impression, they just look like a building site. However from within, they realy do offer an insight to Roman life. A vast labyrinth of houses, shops, etc all in various degrees of archaeological significance. Frescoes, atriums,pottery provide hours of real insight. Especially the baths down below make this an absolute must visit.

They left incredibly impressed and thankfully that if you go outside of Naples there is a point in visiting this part of Italy. They grabbed some lunch in the rather dire new town close by to the station in order to wait for the bus to Vesuvius. It finally arrived at 12.50 so they jumped and were led at a ridiculous speed to volcano that dominates the Bay of Naples. The bus took them all the way to the Vesuvius National Park, which was opened in 1995 to protect the historical heritage of the area. The volcano itself is now dormant and hasn’t spewed since 1944.

Tourist Site 18: Mount Vesuvius

History: Vesuvius gained its notoriety when it erupted in a most spectacular way in 79AD which totally wiped out the towns of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabaie. The outbreak was so violent that it raised a column of smoke up to 32 km high.

Martin’s comments: Walking through the surrounding villages, the solidified lava, pumice and tuffs make you realise how powerful this beast of nature is. The walk to the summit is simply fabulous. Life has begun again as around you notice the first signs of spring. The only downer is that several huge houses have been built near the crater which makes the owners either stupid or curious, or both.

They walked up to the observatory (1841-45) and watched an impressive simulation of the eruption which destroyed Pompeii. The whole experience was breathtaking and just in the back of the mind, the anticipation of a sudden eruption remains a possibility adding even more excitement to the experience.

The bus returned them to the station as they jumped back on the circumvensia and headed to Pompeii, leaving the taxi drivers ruing their greed. Whilst on the train, a middle aged woman with tambourine and her son with the accordion entertained our two with some very jolly music. This had been the second time that day they had paid them for the entertainment, though anyone who has something to offer when asking for money at least tries to earn it. (Martin considered all others to be scroungers). A few stops down the line and Pompeii had waited long enough.

The covering of Pompeii had happened quite unexpectedly, it’s people did not really have much of a chance. There were not the measures or equipment in those days to forecast the horror of nature spewing its anger.

Tourist Site 19: Pompeii

History: Destroyed during a catastrophic eruption in AD79, the volcano buried the city under many feet of ash and it was lost for 1,600 years before its accidental rediscovery. Since then, its excavation has provided an extraordinarily detailed insight into the life of a city at the height of the Roman Empire. At the time of the eruption, the town could have had some 20,000 inhabitants, and was located in an area in which Romans had their vacation villas. Besides the forum, many other services were found: The Macellum (great food market), the Pistrinum (mill), the Thermopolium (sort of bar that served cold and hot beverages), and cauporioe (small restaurants).An ampitheatre and 2 theatres have been found, along with a gymnasium. A hotel was found a short distance from the town. Pompeii was rediscovered in 1748, though back in 1599 an architect named Fontana had actually made the initial discovery.

Martin’s comments:Upon entering, a vast city lays before you, far greater than Herculaneum. Cobbled streets with high pavements guide you through this somewhat haunting place. It provides a truly fascinating insight into the Ancient Roman times and lives. Wandering round, one can feel the history and the lives until that fateful day, best appreciated by the human corpses petrified as they tried to protect themselves from the volcano’s fury. Unreal yet very real beings encased in rock like cod in batter.

Hours can be spent here, as each building offers a new perspective. Frankie Howard’s portrayal was fairly accurate with all the sexual activities that were apparent. Some people believed that Pompeii’s immorality brought the disaster upon them (much like Sodom and Gomorrah). It may be harsh to suggest that Naples would benefit from another eruption, and could be rebuilt without any preservation. Walking around Pompeii is history in context as Mt. Vesuvius still looms over the site, and scientists are expecting some activity in the very near future as there has not been any eruption for over 60 years. It would be interesting to learn what the contingency plans are in the council offices of Naples.

Upon leaving our two grabbed themselves an extremely delicious pizza near the station, which was both reasonably priced and served with a smile. Not what they had come to expect of the Campanian hospitality. It had been the most interesting St.Valentine’s day either of them had experienced. Neither felt like going out in Naples that evening so the mini bar provided Maya with a spumanti and a diet coke for Martin. Highlight: Herculaneum/Vesuvius/Pompeii

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