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After completing auditions for the remake of the Italian Job we dropped down into a mist-laden valley hiding the ski and summer resort of Lago di Laceno. Between seasons, a ghost resort with nary an animal grazing to break the eerie silence. In Summer it is hard to find a picnic spot, competing with vast family groups bar-be-queing, spit-roasting, pasta boiling and generally cavorting.
Snaking down through more heavily wooded forests once favoured by Neapolitan mafia in days gone by, we hit the cobbled streets of Bagnoli Irpino. Even through driving rain its picturesque qualities shone through. It should be, said my cousin, the amount of EU money that has been thrown at it. Narrowing into a lane we turned a corner more suited to pedestrians than motor vehicles.
The strange purpose built town of Conza de la Campania made an interesting detour. Stepford Wives? Poundbury? Somehow whole communities built from scratch seem unable to come with soul included.
Have I mentioned that my cousin was a rally driver in a former life? He swears he has always been an architect but I have always had my doubts.
After a week
Melfi cathedral
From the not so expensive cafe driving around Campagnia and surrounds with him my doubts turned to certainties. With his patient, trusty helpmeet navigating at his side he endeavoured to make the next checkpoint before we had left the last. He negotiated the bends at high pace leaving the Italians for dead!
Photographic opportunities swept past but a shouted 'stop' caused the right skidding reaction and we snapped away happily at the wildflowers and olives until summoned back to the car.
12
th century Melfi castle was full of school groups. Its fairly uninteresting interior and entry price decided us against a visit. We walked down the narrow stepped lanes to the catedrale and sat outside comparing coffee prices to Calitri. More expensive but still not silly tourist prices.
The hot day found us happy to step into the cathedral to look at its wooden ceiling before we set off again in the air-conditoned car. We left the road just before Venosa to picnic in an idyllic quiet grove. Not olives. We were unsure of the spiky thorns on the trunks but the leaves looked to be of the acacia or mimosa family. Still the dappled leaves and
Bagni Irpino
Photogenic even in the rain heady grasses made for a relaxing siesta for some whilst others snapped pretty wildflower photos!
Venosa proved to be another walled city with 17
th century faded palazzos and piazzas. In search of the best stracciatella ever we sat outside another cathedral in yet another piazza and gathered our thoughts whilst eating ice-cream and watching hundreds of house martins swooping into their nests under the eaves of the cathedral.
Laghi di Monticchio
An azure jewel at the base of verdant green hills. A few pedalos skimmed the surface lazily near the banks gazing up at the imposing white convent building. Walkways and boardwalks were part of the tourist experience as well as a hopeful pair of grey horses pulling an old carriage. As we got out of the car, the driver pulled at his hat and unfolded himself from the crate he was sitting on. He was hopeful too.
We, however, availed ourselves of none of these delights but climbed up out of the lake area and looked back at a twin lake nestled against the trees. An area for further exploration, another time, another visit.
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Gabrielle
non-member comment
in aw
You will have some wonderfull memories you will have to look at your blogs when you come back to take it all in , it must be like a whurle wind at times.