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Published: June 11th 2023
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I now have three days cycling south under my belt. A mixture of roads, cycle path and canal side greenways. Surprisingly there is no Shannon cycle route as such. There are cycle routes, local loops mainly, and more in development, but still a way to go. From looking at the tourist information boards in each county, they are all very keen to show cycle routes and loops in their own county, but not so much inter-county info.
Leaving Drumshambo I discovered the board walk that crosses Acres Lough and links to Leitrim village via a lovely canal towpath. However I had to cover the last few kilometres to Carrick-on-Shannon on the road. Apparently they are still talking about installing a path along the river/canal.
Carrick on Shannon is a lovely bustling town. After looking into the smallest church in Ireland. At 16 feet by 12 feet, the Costello Memorial Chapel dedicated in April 1879 is also reputedly the second smallest in the world.
I had lunch across the road by the little clock tower dedicated to Owen MCann and near the plaque commemorating Carrick on Shannon'srecent success as a finalist in the friendliest town in Ireland competition. I
acres Lough.
It's worth it though. couldn't help wondering on what grounds they didn't win.
Continuing southwards I followed roads to Cloondara where I picked up the Royal Canal Greenway. I cycled the whole route to Dublin last year and knew I'd find a spot along it to wild camp.
I camped only a few km from Ballymahon where I stopped for coffree early next morning. A council worker came over for a chat as I studied the info board for cycle routes. No off-road to Athlone yet They're going to build one. A common refrain on this trip.
I picked a route through the back roads. Nice cycling, but limited views of Shannon. Another common theme I've discovered. The largest river in Ireland is not that visible except from a few points along the road and bridges. Almost as if whichever of Slartibartfast's colleagues who was responsible for drainage in Ireland had to submit an EIA and show that it wouldn't be all that visible. Minimum landscape impact. Rather like is done for major road projects now. No significant impact.
Athlone was bustling. Looking good. There are now three bridges by the castle.
In the tourist office, in the castle
grounds, the assistant was very friendly, but had no info on cycle paths south from Athlone. You've guessed it. They're talking about it. In fairness work is progressing apace on the path to Galway, westwards, one of those bridges nearby is for the new greenway.
Checking the online maps, it was frustrating to see some of the back roads almost linked up, but not quite. It wouldn't take much to put a path in, judging by the map anyway.
I was wondering what the black lines on outdoor Active map were. Tourist office didn't know. I know they do mark paths sometimes. But didn't really want to double back if they turned out to be something else. On the way to Clonmacnoise I discovered they were old Bord na Mona narrow gauge railways on the bogs.
I ended my day at Tua campsite behind The Friar's Tavern in Lorrha, a very historic monastic settlement.
In Lorrha I awoke to a dull day. Short, light showers. But not as bad as forecast. A mild day.
I set off for Nenagh via Puckaun. Hilly. There were some misty views of the Shannon as I cycled along the
undulating countryside.
I somehow managed to arrive in good time for a lovely lunch with friends in Nenagh. Well fueled and after several hours chatting I got back on the road to Killaloe.
I had been told about the hill at Portroe. It was the first proper hill, by Derry/Donegal standards I've encountered on this trip. I managed most of it.
The Lookout, the viewpoint a few km further on, provided spectacular views across Lough Derg. (There are two Lough Dergs in Ireland). It was still quite full, but that didn't spoil the view.
A short cycle north from Killaloe where I tossed in County Clare, I arrived at The Piper's Rest which has a campsite to the side. Unfortunately there is no rate for solo hikers / cyclists which makes it a little expensive for single travellers. However it is a lovely campsite, the restaurant looks very good and it's ina beautiful location near the east Clare hills.
Now I'm just about to set off towards Foynes. The Munster hurling final is on today in Limerick. It might be fun to watch it in a bar somewhere and enjoy the atmosphere.. The sun has
just come out again. Looks like a good day.
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